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Just got your printer?? Things to keep in mind

Discussion in 'Troubleshooting' started by tesseract, Oct 28, 2013.

  1. tesseract

    tesseract Moderator
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    yes that looks like the one I used
    Remember though it is still a gray area some have used the new polyfuse without any issue same with the fan but others have not again same with the fan. Things were just delayed
     
  2. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    That looks like the one I bought as well. Sadly, I still have not yet installed it :) I am one of the ones that a fan was enough of a fix for initially. I have the parts though and need to motivate and just do it.
     
  3. Rusty

    Rusty New Member

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    I'm not really a fan of changing the electronic components, but I have set about printing the fan holder from thingiverse. I've lowered the Z axis to barely above the heat bed (by the way I was able to fix most of the issues by uninstalling and reinstalling the USB driver). I printed some PLA that I found but it wasn't enough to complete the structure of the hollow cube. I found while I was printing it that the print suffered the same problem as a previous PLA print I tried to make. The Y axis was moving the print head further away from the centre every 5-8 layers. Is this an issue with calibration? If so, please let me know how I can fix it....

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
  4. 1d1

    1d1 Active Member

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    Y slippage has to do with the belt drive usually. It may be that the belt is improperly tensioned and needs adjustment or that the gear that drives the belt is slipping on the shaft. Tightening the grub screws on the shaft is always a good idea anyway, but it requires removal of the bed. The belt tensioning can be done by removing the end that has a loop around the mounting point. Undo the two screws and nuts to drop it down, take up a notch or two, and replace it. There should be a bit of resistance to get the screws back through the bed and belt mount. Good Luck!
     
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  5. tesseract

    tesseract Moderator
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    One thing to note getting the belt too tight willcause the EXACT SAME issues but instead of the belt slipping being the cause it is due to the fact that the stepper motor fail to actually move the belt due to the excessive tension. The best way to tell is that if you pluck the belt like a guitar string it should not just be a thud like sound it should have a pitch to it just like a guitar string has a pitch...this will be much lower of course. So focus on getting rid of the thudlike sound but also don't make it into a guitar
     
  6. Rusty

    Rusty New Member

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    Thank you VERY much! The belt was so loose it made no sound when plucked. Now it makes a sweet note :)

    I've now made my first complete print using ABS with no stuff ups - 1 of 2 spool holders:

    [​IMG]
     
  7. tesseract

    tesseract Moderator
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    looks alot better good job
     
  8. Yngow

    Yngow New Member

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    I got my printer and my first spool is a colorfabb shining silver, which now I realize is not a good choice for a beginner but now it's too late.
    I'm having problems with keeping the parts on the bed, the first few layers stick just fine but after some time the part tends to lift, usually on the left or right end.
    I have no idea how to determine if the problem is printing temperature, speed or anything else, I'm using CURA with the following settings:
    Code:
    [profile]
    layer_height = 0.3
    wall_thickness = 1.2
    retraction_enable = True
    solid_layer_thickness = 0.9
    fill_density = 10
    nozzle_size = 0.4
    print_speed = 60
    print_temperature = 210
    print_temperature2 = 0
    print_temperature3 = 0
    print_temperature4 = 0
    print_bed_temperature = 60
    support = None
    platform_adhesion = None
    support_dual_extrusion = Both
    wipe_tower = False
    wipe_tower_volume = 15
    ooze_shield = False
    filament_diameter = 1.75
    filament_diameter2 = 0
    filament_diameter3 = 0
    filament_diameter4 = 0
    filament_flow = 100.0
    retraction_speed = 30
    retraction_amount = 4
    retraction_dual_amount = 16.5
    retraction_min_travel = 0.3
    retraction_combing = True
    retraction_minimal_extrusion = 0.02
    retraction_hop = 0.5
    bottom_thickness = 0.3
    object_sink = 0.0
    overlap_dual = 0.15
    travel_speed = 60
    bottom_layer_speed = 25
    infill_speed = 75
    inset0_speed = 35
    insetx_speed = 45
    cool_min_layer_time = 5
    fan_enabled = True
    skirt_line_count = 0
    skirt_gap = 0
    skirt_minimal_length = 0
    fan_full_height = 1
    fan_speed = 100
    fan_speed_max = 100
    cool_min_feedrate = 100
    cool_head_lift = False
    solid_top = True
    solid_bottom = True
    fill_overlap = 15
    support_type = Grid
    support_angle = 70
    support_fill_rate = 15
    support_xy_distance = 0.7
    support_z_distance = 0.3
    spiralize = False
    brim_line_count = 3
    raft_margin = 5
    raft_line_spacing = 1.0
    raft_base_thickness = 0.3
    raft_base_linewidth = 0.7
    raft_interface_thickness = 0.2
    raft_interface_linewidth = 0.2
    fix_horrible_union_all_type_a = True
    fix_horrible_union_all_type_b = False
    fix_horrible_use_open_bits = False
    fix_horrible_extensive_stitching = False
    plugin_config = (lp1
        (dp2
        S'params'
        p3
        (dp4
        S'targetL'
        p5
        V1
        sS'extruderTwo'
        p6
        V
        sS'platformTemp'
        p7
        V55
        p8
        sS'targetZ'
        p9
        V
        sS'flowrate'
        p10
        V
        sS'fanSpeed'
        p11
        V
        sS'speed'
        p12
        V
        sS'extruderOne'
        p13
        V185
        p14
        ssS'filename'
        p15
        S'TweakAtZ.py'
        p16
        sa.
    object_center_x = -1
    object_center_y = -1
     
    [alterations]
    start.gcode =
        ;Basic settings: Layer height: {layer_height} Walls: {wall_thickness} Fill: {fill_density}
        ;Print time: {print_time}
        ;Filament used: {filament_amount}m {filament_weight}g
        ;Filament cost: {filament_cost}
        ;M190 S{print_bed_temperature} ;Uncomment to add your own bed temperature line
        ;M109 S{print_temperature} ;Uncomment to add your own temperature line
        G21        ;metric values
        G90        ;absolute positioning
        M82        ;set extruder to absolute mode
        M107      ;start with the fan off
        G28 X0 Y0  ;move X/Y to min endstops
        G28 Z0    ;move Z to min endstops
        G1 Z15.0 F{travel_speed} ;move the platform down 15mm
        G92 E0                  ;zero the extruded length
        G1 F200 E3              ;extrude 3mm of feed stock
        G92 E0                  ;zero the extruded length again
        G1 F{travel_speed}
    end.gcode =
        M104 S0                    ;extruder heater off
        M190 S0                    ;heated bed off
        G91                                    ;relative positioning
        G1 E-1 F300                            ;retract the filament a bit before lifting the nozzle, to release some of the pressure
        G1 Z+0.5 ;move Z up a bit and retract filament even more
        G90                        ;absolute positioning
        G1 X5 Y250                              ;move to finished position
        M84                        ;steppers off
    start2.gcode = ;Sliced at: {day} {date} {time}
        ;Basic settings: Layer height: {layer_height} Walls: {wall_thickness} Fill: {fill_density}
        ;Print time: {print_time}
        ;Filament used: {filament_amount}m {filament_weight}g
        ;Filament cost: {filament_cost}
        ;M190 S{print_bed_temperature} ;Uncomment to add your own bed temperature line
        ;M104 S{print_temperature} ;Uncomment to add your own temperature line
        ;M109 T1 S{print_temperature2} ;Uncomment to add your own temperature line
        ;M109 T0 S{print_temperature} ;Uncomment to add your own temperature line
        G21        ;metric values
        G90        ;absolute positioning
        M107      ;start with the fan off
        G28 X0 Y0  ;move X/Y to min endstops
        G28 Z0    ;move Z to min endstops
        G1 Z15.0 F{travel_speed} ;move the platform down 15mm
        T1                      ;Switch to the 2nd extruder
        G92 E0                  ;zero the extruded length
        G1 F200 E10            ;extrude 10mm of feed stock
        G92 E0                  ;zero the extruded length again
        G1 F200 E-{retraction_dual_amount}
        T0                      ;Switch to the first extruder
        G92 E0                  ;zero the extruded length
        G1 F200 E10            ;extrude 10mm of feed stock
        G92 E0                  ;zero the extruded length again
        G1 F{travel_speed}
        ;Put printing message on LCD screen
        M117 Printing...
    end2.gcode = ;End GCode
        M104 T0 S0                    ;extruder heater off
        M104 T1 S0                    ;extruder heater off
        M140 S0                    ;heated bed heater off (if you have it)
        G91                                    ;relative positioning
        G1 E-1 F300                            ;retract the filament a bit before lifting the nozzle, to release some of the pressure
        G1 Z+0.5 E-5 X-20 Y-20 F{travel_speed} ;move Z up a bit and retract filament even more
        G28 X0 Y0                              ;move X/Y to min endstops, so the head is out of the way
        M84                        ;steppers off
        G90                        ;absolute positioning
    support_start.gcode =
    support_end.gcode =
    cool_start.gcode =
    cool_end.gcode =
    replace.csv =
    switchextruder.gcode = ;Switch between the current extruder and the next extruder, when printing with multiple extruders.
        G92 E0
        G1 E-36 F5000
        G92 E0
        T{extruder}
        G1 X{new_x} Y{new_y} Z{new_z} F{travel_speed}
        G1 E36 F5000
        G92 E0
    
     
  9. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    Sounds more like warp, which can often be helped by running the bed hotter. Although without a heated chamber it is nearly impossible to eliminate (which is why I do only small parts in ABS with the Robo).

    I have not used the Colorfabb silver, but I have tried the Colorfabb XT and it did warp slightly even with a bed temp of 60. Next time I will probably run the bed a bit hotter.
     
  10. 1d1

    1d1 Active Member

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    I use Colorfabb all the time and experience very minimal warping with either their PLA/PHA or XT. I think it is great filament in general and the only drawback for a beginner is cost. You will use a lot of filament learning the basics so a cheaper one is adequate, but Colorfabb is definitely not more difficult to use. I suspect your problem lies in getting that first layer just right, for one, and a proper adhesive like Aquanet hair spray or glue stick. There is a wealth of good advice on how to get the first layer correct on this forum. Search, experiment and find your way. Once you get it, there's no going back - good luck!
    @Mark; you might also try going the other way with a lower bed temp to reduce warping. I use 40 with very good results.
     
  11. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    Thanks, I will try that (or maybe even with the bed off entirely).
    So far only one little test print and it worked, but with a slight warp on the first few layers.
     
  12. SteveC

    SteveC Well-Known Member

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    It's not clear but did the first layers stay stuck and the rest delaminate? If not and the first layers just came unstuck then you have a very basic problem. How are you preparing the bed? Use Aquanet Hairspray or gluestick as mentioned on many threads and it will stick. Are you using a brim? What is the bottom layer surface area like? Low contact area area objects need brims and hairspray.

    I have not tried silver Colorfab but have no problems with 4 or 5 other colors.

    Let us know how it works out.
     
  13. SteveC

    SteveC Well-Known Member

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    Also, if you have a heated bed you should set it to about 45-50C. I have not seen any of my Colorfab spools warp at all with Aquanet hairspray and a 50C bed. The silver may be different though.
     
  14. Printed Solid

    Printed Solid Volunteer Admin
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    I've printed a lot with just about all of the colorfabb colors. ;)
    I usually just use a cold bed with glue stick, but temps up to 55-60 are OK if you want to use them.

    Silver is one of my favorite colors, so I don't think you should be having trouble with it.

    Have you seen some of Tesseract's posts about what your first layer should look like? Getting that first layer right isn't just about getting the print started. It's just as critical to getting a complete print with minimal warping. Once a corner pops up, no matter what material you are using, you're going to be in trouble.
     
  15. Yngow

    Yngow New Member

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    I got a new hairspray with the ingredients tesseract suggests on another post, used in conjunction with my glue stick and added brim to the model....
    What a difference! It's now printing very well, only thing is that the first layer gets a little deformed on the curves, specially on the brim itself, but the final part is very good.
    I'll try to take some pictures later
     
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  16. Yngow

    Yngow New Member

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    My problem right now seems to be an uneven bed, my first layers goes perfect until my extruder hits the previously printed layer and destroys everything
     
  17. SteveC

    SteveC Well-Known Member

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    That explanation does not sound right to me. Perhaps you can rephrase.

    If the bed is uneven then the first layer will not go on evenly and sections may be to high and not stick and others too low and too squished. If the first layer sticks OK then the subsequent layers will be laid on a more even surface and will be fine. In other words the first layer or two will even out the bed for all subsequent layers.
     
  18. Yngow

    Yngow New Member

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    The front part of the bed is where I leveled the print head, but apparently the back part is higher than the front, so the very first layer prints fine (or not even the first layer but the first string of the layer) and then as it continues when the print head goes to the back part it collides with printed material on the bed and destroys the part, either by just removing everything from the bed or by breaking the string on that point
     
  19. SteveC

    SteveC Well-Known Member

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    Hmm - still not that clear. Are you saying that some areas of the first layer print fine but other areas of the bed are too high and end up with extra plastic ridges sticking up? Then the second layer hits these ridges and pulls them up and leaves a mess? o_O If this is the case then yes you need to try to level the bed better. There are a lot of posts on this with bed leveling ideas. If it is not too much out of level you can try putting some thin washers in the front to compensate for the back height. Sometimes just tightening two of the screws will lower that section enough to work. Also some posts suggest putting O rings around two of the bed screws to allow some level adjustment.

    Good luck.
     
  20. AxisLab

    AxisLab Well-Known Member

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    Its too high. it will drag it with the hot end. if you get gaps in the string, its too high. it needs to be lower to PRESS the filament into the bed. Not just lay it down on it.
     

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