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Kickstarter Edition: Full rebuild help

Discussion in 'Mods and Upgrades' started by SPyKER, Mar 27, 2017.

  1. daniel871

    daniel871 Well-Known Member

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  2. SPyKER

    SPyKER Active Member

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    I think I might give 3DPrinterOS a whirl. They have a Robo 3D R1 setting already.
     
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  3. SPyKER

    SPyKER Active Member

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    So last night I ran into a new problem with the y-axis. All of a sudden, the y-axis seems to be getting "stuck" and won't move correctly without a nudge, and sometimes not even then. I thought I was soooo close, and even had filament extrusion (so excited!). Now, when I home it, y goes out all the way, then back to the switch and then back out about a inch?

    Sent from my LG-LS997 using Tapatalk
     
  4. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    Check the drive with the bed off to make sure when you move the rails full stop on the Y axis (end-to-end) that the belt is not travelling up/down on the pinions in the center. If it is then it can bind at the ends of travel (i.e. near HOME and near Y max). If it is moving up/down then your belt is not level across the pinions. One of mine came stock that way and I had to raise the gear cog on the motor shaft.
     
  5. SPyKER

    SPyKER Active Member

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    So I added conically-tapered compression springs to the corners because that is all I have had time for, but wonder if I don't have things turned around.

    The screws that bolt the birch bed down are not center, they make one side longer than the other. I have the belt mounts on the left side where they line up with the bearings and gear, but the longer side is out front, and the belt mount sits out some in front, where the back mount is flush under the bed. Could I need to remove the bed and belt hardware and flip it all around as well?
     
  6. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    I don't think it matters as long as when you move the bed full stop to full stop the print area is "workable" or rather that the bed is still under the nozzle. The electronics work in terms of HOME is axis 0 and then the firmware "knows" how many steps/mm "long" that axis is.
     
  7. SPyKER

    SPyKER Active Member

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    Well, I did a calibration circle w/o the glass or calibration, and it printed out! Obviously it was just sorta circles and squiggles, but it printed! Stopped it about 5 minutes in. Now to clip on the heated bed and glass and calibrate. Tips for calibration of a R1 beta? I do have the springs on the corners.

    Sent from my LG-LS997 using Tapatalk
     
  8. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    Print something like this sized for the whole bed and adjust your screws as needed to get it level all the way around
     

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  9. SPyKER

    SPyKER Active Member

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    how do I make sure it avoids the binder clips?
     
  10. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    ?
    Those should be at the extreme edges of the glass.
    Just bring it in enough to clear them.
     
  11. SPyKER

    SPyKER Active Member

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    It printed! No glue or hairspray or anything. Only one small area where it lifted on an end of an outer calibration quarter. Going to try to print something a bit bigger.
     

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  12. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    Convert that puppy to autoleveling and go to town :)

    Although once you get it leveled it is not going to change much.
     
  13. SPyKER

    SPyKER Active Member

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    Printed! Would the top be because of the low quality setting? Layers set to .3mm and fill density to .2%.
     

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  14. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    Needs more top/bottom layers and probably running a bit hot.

    I don't know what "low quality" translates to in terms of settings.
     
  15. SPyKER

    SPyKER Active Member

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    Went to print the "whistle" and it started to lift. What is the most common reason for lift? For PLA on my E3D, I have it running 210C and 50C on the bed.
     
  16. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    Printing to hot :)

    PLA can be printed a lot cooler in most cases and certainly on the E3D. I would suggest to try cooler :)

    Are you using hairspray for your adhesion ?
     
  17. SPyKER

    SPyKER Active Member

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    This time I left the settings the same and tried glue stick as I had one. I don't have hair, hence to hairspray! :) It's on about layer 30 out of just over 200 with no issues so far, knock on wood.
     
    #57 SPyKER, Apr 8, 2017
    Last edited: Apr 8, 2017
  18. SPyKER

    SPyKER Active Member

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    Seemed to print too fast. The top layer seemed to fall into the hole rather than form a raft for the final laters. maybe too hot and too fast? Another question: is there an easy way to loosen the print from the glue? it felt like I was going to break the glass prying it off!


    And it doesn't make a noise when I blow in it! CameraZOOM-20170408201233737.jpg
     
  19. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    Too hot, not enough parts fan cooling... those are options. When bridging like that you WANT it to move faster :)
    So not that it is too fast, but rather too hot still.
     
  20. SPyKER

    SPyKER Active Member

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    I have no fan on the extruded filament. I have a Radio Shack 40mm cooling fan to install. What's a good adapter to print for it. Thingiverse?

    Sent from my LG-LS997 using Tapatalk
     

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