Marlin for the R2 - UBL Enabled

Finally, after many, many false starts due to the universe being against me, I finally successfully completed UBL on my R2 and here is the deprime model I just printed. It was printed using black PLA, so it's hard to see detail, but it came out better than I expected; a little stringy but good enough for government work. This is my first print on glass too. I tried bare glass without any glue or anything and it didn't work. This one is layered with some hair spray which seems to work rather well. I hope this glass bed works out for me because I've had way too many problems with PEI and Buildtak; I've given up on them.

The front right corner shows some shifting, but that was because I'm an idiot and I leaned on the printer table.

 

Awesome. My printer is performing well; I'm extremely pleased. However, I have one slightly related question. When you modified the Marlin code, did you by any chance increase the maximum bed temperature? Just wondering because before I could only get the bed to 85 or 90 C. I'd like to be able to go higher.

 

Waldo, forgive my ignorance once again but how exactly did you use M421? I have several mesh points I need to edit, but I'm not sure how to do it. I would need the exact x and y coordinates of the point right? For instance, if I wanted to adjust a mesh point by 0.05mm using M421, can I just issue M421 Xxxx Yxxx Z-0.05? Or do I need to adjust it using the z-offset value? I'm confused.

I'm also confused as to how I can find the exact x and y coordinates of the points. However, I just realized if I move the extruder around the grid and issue a G29 T command, I can see where the closest mesh point is to the hotend. That may make it easier a bit.

 

That's perfect, thank you for this. I have tried it a few times but every time I did, the printer would error-out and I'd have to reset it.

 

I am having another problem. I had to redo UBL and now nothing works properly. After I perform UBL, I wanted to do a test print to see the mesh. But,when I issue the command, it starts printing it 10mm too high. Basically, it doesn't lift the bed off of home (G28); it just starts printing right there. I honestly can't figure out what the hell is going on. Anyone had this problem?

 

I've already tried that.....a few times

 

I did use the new firmware from your github. So, I'm going back to the older version I was using and try again.

 

Ok, so I got it working again, G26 does what it's supposed to do. But, like I said previously, I did have to go back to the previous firmware I had. I don't know exactly what setting is causing the problem. I looked at both codes side-by-side and there are some differences, but I'm not sure which one is causing the problem.

 

Well, I'm just glad I have it all fixed now. I've spent the last 8.5 hours on this printer. Changing code, dialing in the z-offset, and printing out test grids using G26. I think something might be wrong with my IR sensor. I modified values and reprinted the grid 10 times (after I got it all working anyway). Some of the values were off by quite a bit, relatively speaking (+-0.150mm). I don't know, maybe that's ok. I even modified the firmware to probe each point slower and more than once. Maybe I should try the M48 code and see if I get repeating values. But that's going to have to wait until tomorrow cuz I'm exhausted. On the bright side, my mesh is near PERFECT now.

Also, I know most of you guys probably know this, but if your printer starts doing crazy stuff like printing 10 mm off the bed, just type M112 in the printer terminal and hit enter. That's the emergency stop code, which I've been looking for for a while. The only drawback to it is it will completely reset your z-offset to default (Z0.00). But, if you know what it is you can change it back in a few seconds. M112 doesn't override the mesh thank God. Just load it up again after the reset and you are good.

 

That's good to know. I wonder if I can upgrade it to a better sensor? I'll have to take it out and see what my options are.