1. Got a question or need help troubleshooting? Post to the troubleshooting forum or Search the forums!

Messed up new nozzle install

Discussion in 'Mods and Upgrades' started by Owl, Apr 19, 2017.

  1. Owl

    Owl New Member

    Joined:
    Nov 30, 2016
    Messages:
    16
    Likes Received:
    3
    Hey guys! I have been one happy ROBO owner eve
    r since you all helped me with some issues early on. 3D printing is now something I identify with as a hobby, and I think about it all the time. I love it, and this community is what helped foster that. I decided to upgrade my nozzle to an e3d hardened steel 0.4mm nozzle. While disassembling everything, my brass nozzle's hex head broke off! I need to get a replacement heater block. Okay, they're cheap enough, and the last one has some dings in it from past maintenance. My question is about which ones will be fully compatible with the sensors/anything else on the Robo 3D R1+.

    I have found a couple that are a good deal, but are straight out of China and look like they are made out of weird, cheap alloys. On the other hand, I found these: http://e3d-online.com/V6-Sensor-Cartridge-Heater-Block which seem like they're well made and are a decent price.

    Will those work on an R1+ with the sensors that are used? Are most of the sensors universal sizes? I have a couple of projects I need to get off the ground and want to be sure before I spend the money and time waiting for it to get shipped internationally. I am also assuming what happened was not covered in the ROBO warranty, and a quick check of their parts shop online shows they are out of the "R1/R1+ Hexagon Hotend Full 1.75mm" anyway. I'm happy to pay for the new part so I decided I wasn't going to even try to bug ROBO about it.

    TLDR; read bold. Thanks for any help!

    IMG_20170419_115858.jpg IMG_20170419_115813.jpg
     
    #1 Owl, Apr 19, 2017
  2. Robert55

    Robert55 Member

    Joined:
    Apr 27, 2015
    Messages:
    94
    Likes Received:
    34
    I usually take a small hammer and a small Torx star bit and use that as an extractor. Tap into the nozzle throat with a hammer.

    Sent from my LGLS996 using Tapatalk
     
    #2 Robert55, Apr 19, 2017
    Owl likes this.
  3. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
    Staff Member

    Joined:
    Feb 21, 2013
    Messages:
    23,914
    Likes Received:
    7,338
    You need to replace the entire hexagon (hard to find "parts" for that one). Robo sells them about as cheap as anyone.
    Or use an E3D... those do have part available if needed later.
     
    #3 mark tomlinson, Apr 19, 2017
    Owl likes this.
  4. Owl

    Owl New Member

    Joined:
    Nov 30, 2016
    Messages:
    16
    Likes Received:
    3
    Thanks for the reply. The problem is that the threads are really bad and it is pretty much seized up completely inside the heater block. No rotation is happening at all, so I don't think this is feasible for my situation unfortunately.

    EDIT: TRYIN' IT ANYWAY! :)
     
    #4 Owl, Apr 19, 2017
    Last edited: Apr 19, 2017
    Robert55 likes this.
  5. Owl

    Owl New Member

    Joined:
    Nov 30, 2016
    Messages:
    16
    Likes Received:
    3
    So that's a "no" to just a new heater block, then?
    [​IMG]
    I really feel like I just need a new one of these! But to clarify, you are saying it won't work?
     
    #5 Owl, Apr 19, 2017
  6. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
    Staff Member

    Joined:
    Feb 21, 2013
    Messages:
    23,914
    Likes Received:
    7,338
    You can try whatever you want :)
    AFAIK you can't just buy Hexagon parts. Can you buy parts that will work? Probably.
    There are a lot of Chinese made clones and one of them might fit (but it will not be a Hexagon heater block).
    The really critical part of the hotend is the heat break so as long as the heater block is close it will probably work.

    Given the cost of a Hex I'd just replace it :)
     
    #6 mark tomlinson, Apr 19, 2017
    Owl likes this.
  7. Owl

    Owl New Member

    Joined:
    Nov 30, 2016
    Messages:
    16
    Likes Received:
    3
    Okay, I think I catch your drift. Since the Robo store is out of stock, and has been for a fair bit IIRC, I found this one. Seems like it should work from the comments, but any critiques or blessings are welcome, I won't pick it up until tomorrow. Thanks for your help Mark.
     
    #7 Owl, Apr 19, 2017
  8. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
    Staff Member

    Joined:
    Feb 21, 2013
    Messages:
    23,914
    Likes Received:
    7,338
    That *should* work.
    My only concern is the (robo specific) canister style thermistor. If you use the new thermistor that comes with that one you are fine, you MAY need to adjust the thermistor type in the firmware.
     
    #8 mark tomlinson, Apr 19, 2017
    Owl likes this.
  9. Owl

    Owl New Member

    Joined:
    Nov 30, 2016
    Messages:
    16
    Likes Received:
    3
    Brilliant, I wouldn't have thought of that. Thanks!
     
    #9 Owl, Apr 19, 2017
  10. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
    Staff Member

    Joined:
    Feb 21, 2013
    Messages:
    23,914
    Likes Received:
    7,338
    That one you liked to is the exact same one we bough to uses as a second extruder on the C2.

    It is pretty much identical to the stock one that Robo uses, not exactly the same, but close enough that it should work. It is physically the exact same dimensions (length. height, etc). Having two of them side-by-side any major differences would leap out.
     
    #10 mark tomlinson, Apr 19, 2017

Share This Page