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Discussion in 'Mods and Upgrades' started by Curtis Wolfe, Feb 27, 2017.
It's Inland Egyptian blue I picked up at Micro Center the other day.
Looks to me like the arm sagged while the rest of the body/other arm stayed upright.
That's what I'm thinking. Those arms are one big long overhang until it gets to the body. I wasn't watching when it got to that point. So didn't see what happend
Wierdness for sure. Got a different filament ? Maybe just a filament issue
Also, the arm that failed appears to be closer to 45-degrees than the other arm (which looks steeper). May need to add a manual support column near the failure point just to keep the arm from falling (or experiment with more shells/less infill to make it stronger/lighter).
I do. and have a bunch more on the way...lol
I'm going to go pick my daughter up from school and then allow the overhang tests commence!
when I printed the baby groots (this was like 30 of them ) lol, I did 4 shells at .2, 15% infill. No supports. If you still only run 1 part cooling fan (stock configuration) you may want to think about adding a 2nd for PLA. it seriously does wonders.
Yeah, sorry. In S3D the option asks for the number of shells you want so you don't have to specify a multiple of your nozzle diameter.
So for you 1.6mm should be ok if 4 shells for @Geof worked.
I do have a second fan, but what seems to happen is I get a lot of warping from it.
How much stock do you put into measuring the diameter of your filament? I hear a bit about this on the FB groups out there.
I have a caliper. If I put it on this Inland blue. It reads about 1.64 I guess you can't assume 1.75, but does that make that big of a difference?
I'm about to find out.
Depends on whether that's actually the average diameter or just in the spot you checked. If the entire spool is undersized like that then yes, it will have a negative impact.
Here is an article about it:
I measured four different spots over about a yard. Let's see what happens.
Why does adjusting this seem to not have an effect? I changed it to 30, but it appears to be moving at the same speed. I'm doing the baby Groot head again. I've slowed it waaaay down for the overhangs under the chin. We're talking down to 35%.
Better. Like I said I slowed it way down for the overhang parts.
that does look much better. You wont notice the minimum time unless you are under the minimum time . If you left it at say 60mm/s when it came to the small layers that go down to quick the extruder will slow down while printing those. its not a "hugely" noticeable effect but the outcome is much better (if you turn it on where the nozzle goes away from the print you really can tell but also expand your print time lol)
Finished a print. Switched out filament.....and what the....is going on here? I removed the filament and hooked up to Matter Control. Enabled cold extrusion and told it to extrude. That's what you see in the video.
Can you guys see the video?
I've been doing some research.
I'm thinking in order of probability
1. Broken or loose wire. I may have messed with one when I did the filament change. I struggled with this change for some reason.
2. Stepper driver. I'll do the swap out test tonight. I may try to tune it.
3. Ramps board. Doubt it but who knows
4. Motor. Again I doubt it.
I've ordered this kit because I saw it recommended so many times. May as well get it on its way.
OSOYOO 3D Printer Kit with RAMPS 1.4 Controller + Mega 2560 board + 5pcs A4988 Stepper Motor Driver with Heatsink + LCD 12864 Graphic Smart Display Controller with Adapter For Arduino RepRap
Fixed. Loose wire on the back of the stepper. I guess I have some back up supplies in a couple weeks
Spares are always good
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