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Mods and experiences with our Robo 3D R1+ (1st Printer)

Discussion in 'Mods and Upgrades' started by Curtis Wolfe, Feb 27, 2017.

  1. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    Possible. The stock power supply does not have a lot of extra wattage for overhead.
    I would suggest if you do replace it get a 400w unit for 10 dollars more.
     
  2. Curtis Wolfe

    Curtis Wolfe Active Member

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    Well. Robo is send me a new thermistor. That's good.
     
  3. Curtis Wolfe

    Curtis Wolfe Active Member

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    Which is good since I'm still having some hotend temp drops. I just had to cancel a print due to hotend cutoff.
     
  4. Curtis Wolfe

    Curtis Wolfe Active Member

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    Am I chasing two issues here?

    Bad thermistor and possibly bad FET on the RAMPS board.

    I have that kit that you recommended Mark. That I bought for the drivers. The one that has a RAMPS 1.4 in it too.

    A new thermistor is on the way from ROBO.
     
  5. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    I did not see anything in your GCode console that would indicate the firmware is shutting you down so I am not really sure that this is a thermistor issue (but if Robo is sending you one, fine).

    The most common cause of the bed shutdowns is the RAMPS board failures as I mentioned.

    My suggestion?

    You have a spare ramps -- swap it in and see what happens. Takes not very long to do and requires no change to the firmware.

    If the problem still exits then -- OK maybe a defective thermistor.
     
  6. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    Either way you can rule out one of the problems with a swap of the RAMPS.
     
  7. Curtis Wolfe

    Curtis Wolfe Active Member

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    I'll try this. I wasn't sure how complicated that swap out would be and if it required a firmware update.

    This is the RAMPS board I have. You're familiar with the kit.

    https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0111ZSS2O/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
     
  8. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    It is not a huge job .. take your time and you can probably do it in an hour (less with practice).
    I would suggest you fully assemble the replacement ramps with jumpers installed and stepper driver cards as well -- all from the kit.
    Then the swap is really just that, a swap of one fully populated card for the other and going back is easy and sure.
     
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  9. Curtis Wolfe

    Curtis Wolfe Active Member

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    Thanks Mark.
     
  10. Curtis Wolfe

    Curtis Wolfe Active Member

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    Just poking around in here. I was checking the small fan on the ramps board. Watching everything as it comes up to temp. There's a power draw in there somewhere. I can hear the fan on the power supply whirling up and then slowing down. This is at the same time the LED's start flickering.

    I have a full printer kit sitting here. What wattage is the stock power supply on the Robo? I can see it's 30A but I don't see any wattage.

    The PS that's in my kit is 20A 250W
     
    #330 Curtis Wolfe, Apr 21, 2017
    Last edited: Apr 21, 2017
  11. Curtis Wolfe

    Curtis Wolfe Active Member

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    Oh yeah and the wires that are coming off the power supply in to the RAMPS board right beside the poly fuses are getting super hot.
     
  12. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    350w. 30amp

    Sent from my BNTV450 using Tapatalk
     
  13. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    The RAMPS or something attached to it is pulling too much current I imagine. Discoonect the bed heater as that is the usual suspect.

    Sent from my BNTV450 using Tapatalk
     
  14. Curtis Wolfe

    Curtis Wolfe Active Member

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    It heats up ok with the bed heater disconnected. I'm still getting a power draw though. About halfway through the heat up cycle the LED's start flickering and the PS fan slows down and speeds up.

    I think I have no choice but to swap out this RAMPS board.
     
  15. Curtis Wolfe

    Curtis Wolfe Active Member

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    I decided to have a beer instead.

    I'm currently printing set at 210 and 0 for the bed.

    The LED's are flickering as if there's a power draw but it's printing away.

    If I add bed temp or even try to heat the bed by itself I'll get shut down for a few minutes and then it will come back on with temp targets zero.

    It could be that the hotend just pulls less power than the bed heater and the total power pull doesn't cause a melt down. The bed heater isn't necessarily the blame.
     
  16. WheresWaldo

    WheresWaldo Volunteer ( ͠° ͟ʖ ͡°)
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    The hot end might bull about 3 - 4 Amps total, the bed heater pulls about 9 - 11 Amps. It is easy math, 30W heating element @ 12V (30W / 12V = 2.5A), 100W bed @ 12V (100W / 12V = 8.25A), add a small fraction for overhead and inefficiency and there you go.
     
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  17. Curtis Wolfe

    Curtis Wolfe Active Member

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    This makes sense as to why I can run the Robo with out heating the bed. For some reason it can't handle the power pull of the bed heater.
     
  18. WheresWaldo

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    A failing power supply could be an issue, 3-4 amp isn't much of a load on a 30A power supply, but then you add bed heating and stepper motor moves and now you might be drawing closer to 20A+ Don't forget that in electronics we have been in a race to the bottom for quite some time. So a 30A no name power supply from a Chinese supplier is probably not the same as 30A for a Meanwell PSU.
     
  19. Curtis Wolfe

    Curtis Wolfe Active Member

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    Do you think I could hook up this 250W 20A power supply that I have in this FLsun kit just to test the theory?
     
  20. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    Sure, with the bed heater not connected and drawing power the 20a will be more than enough for the electronics and hotend.
     

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