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Unresolved More ABS Printing Problems

Discussion in 'Troubleshooting' started by Clint Burbridge, Mar 24, 2015.

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  1. Clint Burbridge

    Clint Burbridge New Member

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    I was hoping that you you guys could help me. I'm having more ABS printing problems. Yesterday, I successfully printed the top portion of my XXL LCD Controller. Today, I'm doing the exact same steps, and I get an epic fail (See Images). Any ideas what's going wrong? Also, how do I remove the blob of plastic from the hot end, with out breaking it. I tried prying it off cold, and prying it off while it's hot. I need to figure this out first before I can even trouble shoot. Any help will be greatly appreciated.

    IMG_1705.JPG IMG_1706.JPG IMG_1707.JPG IMG_1708.JPG
     
    #1 Clint Burbridge, Mar 24, 2015
  2. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    well, it is almost certainly going to need to be (carefully) removed hot.
    You don't have a hotend leak do you? Some of the hexagons had that issue.
     
    #2 mark tomlinson, Mar 24, 2015
  3. Fart_Plume

    Fart_Plume Member

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    Holy Crap, Batman! It's plastic poop!
     
    #3 Fart_Plume, Mar 24, 2015
  4. Clint Burbridge

    Clint Burbridge New Member

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    Mark, as far as I know, I don't have a hot-end leak. Can they come on, all the sudden? I'll try removing it hot. Thanks
     
    #4 Clint Burbridge, Mar 24, 2015
  5. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    More importantly it is ABS plastic poop which will be a beast to remove.

    I think they can. If memory serves the hexagon leaks were at the heat break and due to an improperly assembled and tighten hotend. It would be more likely to happen with ABS since it is printing hotter. When I added the volcano adapter onto my E3D it was something I paid attention to -- making sure that the heat break assembly was tightened in hot to the heater block.
     
    #5 mark tomlinson, Mar 24, 2015
  6. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    You might want to consider judicious and careful use of a small blowtorch to at least get the bulk of that out of there.

    (and dismounting the hotend first perhaps).


    edit: If that were my mess to clean up I would seriously consider a replacement hotend :)
    Oh, I would probably, eventually, get around to fixing that one, but dang... what a mess.
     
    #6 mark tomlinson, Mar 24, 2015
    Last edited: Mar 24, 2015
  7. Fart_Plume

    Fart_Plume Member

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    I'd disassemble the hotend as far as I could then find an old pan or cookie sheet and throw it in the oven at around 460*F to let the plastic run off of the hotend.
     
    #7 Fart_Plume, Mar 24, 2015
  8. Mike Kelly

    Mike Kelly Volunteer

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    Looks like your prints aren't adhering and then the filament is getting stuck to the nozzle. What are you using for adhesion?
     
    #8 Mike Kelly, Mar 24, 2015
  9. Clint Burbridge

    Clint Burbridge New Member

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    I was under the impression, that the Robo automatically does the bed leveling before printing. I'm probably wrong, but I thought that it was written into the Gcode, that once the hotend and bed got up to temp, then the extruder automatically homes, then does the 9 point bed leveling, then starts the print.

    I remember this morning, that when I started the print, it went right to printing and did not automatically level the bed. I watched it for a while and it appeared to be printing fine. I left for several hours, and came back to a complete mess. Am I wrong about the bed leveling?
     
    #9 Clint Burbridge, Mar 24, 2015
  10. Clint Burbridge

    Clint Burbridge New Member

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    I'm using the glue stick, as recommended.
     
    #10 Clint Burbridge, Mar 24, 2015
  11. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    It is automatic if the slicer adds the appropriate GCode into the output.
    Most people put the auto-leveling commands in their startup GCode that the slicer will then put in for you.
     
    #11 mark tomlinson, Mar 24, 2015
  12. Mike Kelly

    Mike Kelly Volunteer

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    Glue stick isn't great for ABS from my experience. I suggest aquanet hairspray or ABS slurry.

    ABS slurry on kapton tape works great from my experience.
     
    #12 Mike Kelly, Mar 24, 2015
    mark tomlinson likes this.
  13. Clint Burbridge

    Clint Burbridge New Member

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    The end of my "Start G-Code" window in Matter Control reads "G29 ; probe the bed".
     
    #13 Clint Burbridge, Mar 24, 2015
  14. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    That will do it.
     
    #14 mark tomlinson, Mar 24, 2015
  15. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    Mike may be on point though and ABS is finicky. You may be level enough assuming you have something the ABS wants to stick to.
    For ABS I would suggest the hairspray or ABS juice as Mike mentioned. I have printed a lot of stuff with ABS (even without the heated chamber) you can do a lot with model orientation and tricks to get it to stick, but models like that one that are large (X/Y) and flat are going to be difficult unless you really crank up the bed temperature.
     
    #15 mark tomlinson, Mar 24, 2015
  16. Ben R

    Ben R Active Member

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    Yood think.. but the ABS is far too viscous. I've had a PLA leak and ignored it by just using ANY other material.
    The heat shouldn't/doesn't seem to matter. Pla is liquid at printing temps.. ABS is still .. whatever... plastic.


    I've had the same type of failure with NYLON. The thing starts warping, pushes into your nozzle, you get the nozzle covered with goop.. then whammo it's just printing into a big puffball.

    I came home to a good golfball sized nylon ball once.

    Think abs is hard to get off... pffff. Hot nylon is like snot mixed with spiderwebs.
     
    #16 Ben R, Mar 24, 2015
  17. Fart_Plume

    Fart_Plume Member

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    Now I use Elmer's washable purple school glue sticks. It works great for me on ABS.
     
    #17 Fart_Plume, Mar 24, 2015
  18. Ben R

    Ben R Active Member

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    comes off easy? I've tried many things.. for my money/time... hairspray. Spray on, wipe off with alcohol or water.
    goes on smooth. Potential for overspray.. but just do some clean up every now and then.
     
    #18 Ben R, Mar 24, 2015
  19. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    The glue stick comes off very easy if you put it over blue painters tape.

    I no longer use any of that. I finally got the leveling corrected and just use hairspray.
    Minor leveling errors are harder to deal with on the betas and using painters tape and glue stick is a lot more forgiving for small errors in leveling.
     
    #19 mark tomlinson, Mar 24, 2015
  20. sarge5020

    sarge5020 Member

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    I have a Kickstarter version and use hair spray for adhesion. Seems to work pretty good.
     
    #20 sarge5020, Mar 25, 2015
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