More RoBo3d Antics.......

That is an impressive, industrial scale, jam then. No messing around, eh?
Try increasing the heat to say 230 and see if you can get it to move.

 

Leaks with the all metal hotend imply something not properly assembled/attached. You should be able to tighten that back up, but you need to clear the clog first. You could remove the brass nozzle from the hotend (they unscrew as you might expect). You need to do this with the nozzle hot (so care is needed as you might expect). With the Hexagon and E3D styles the nozzles are removable/replaceable and come with different sized apertures if needed (the default is 0.4 mm).

 

There is little likelihood that it really needs to be replaced. The all metal ones are virtually indestructible (OK, some folks could do it, but it would take effort). Some of the parts (like the fan mount) are plastic and could be damaged, but the hotend itself should be fine.

If it is getting hot and the temperature can be read in the software... it can be fixed. Even the heater core and thermistor are replaceable (and cheap) which is a huge plus. Glad they went to those--most of us upgraded anyway back when they were still providing a J-Head style.

I imagine the worst case for your situation is that the nozzle is somehow clogged to the point that cleaning it would be a pain. In which case a new 0.4 nozzle would solve it (mind you you still can clean/unclog them, but it might take more effort than it is worth).

 

Ultimately that is the strength of this system, it is completely user maintainable/upgradeable. Not a closed/proprietary system.

Unfortunately you have had a spate of birthing issues you are close to getting them sorted.

 

If you can get the video of your print up somewhere on a file sharing site and link to it, I think it will help us help you fix your issue, which now sounds like it has turned into two issues.

Let's take a step back on this one because there are some mixed up messages going on. First of all, you don't have an all metal hot end. The hot end in the pic is the second version of the hot end that Robo shipped with, which is a PEEK / PTFE hotend, not all metal. That's a little odd because I thought they were updating everything shipped after the bed repairs with the all metal hexagon.

It's also possible that you have some debris in the tip. Get something with a diameter under 0.4mm. A high E guitar string works well. If you have a harbor freight nearby, they have these little random packs of tiny diameter dremel bits that also tend to work. Heat the nozzle up, push the string or drill bit through from the nozzle end. If that is clear, then you should be able to go back to Mark's seasoning approach.

If that doesn't help, it is possible that you could have a damaged PTFE tube inside the hot end (underneath that black grid piece). Those have been known to crack. It's also possible that your PTFE tube was damaged with the safety pin trick, which would be unfortunate. I highly advise against that trick for PTFE hot ends, but it's relatively harmless for all metals. See if you can get robo to replace it with the hexagon. You'll be much happier.

Once you're flowing again, there are a few things potentially happening if you're stopping part way into the print. One is like Mark mentioned earlier. Some sort of a communications issue. Does the large gear on the extruder continue to turn through the print even when nothing is coming out? If that's the case, then we can rule out communications issue.

If the gear is turning AND you are not shaving the filament, then the filament has either walked off the hobbed bolt (less likely with the current hobbed bolt) or the spring tension is not enough for some reason. You can try adding more force on those springs by popping in a few extra washers.