My Fixes, Tips & Tricks for your Robo3D Printer

Hello Fellow Robo 3D Owners,

I just created a video showing all of my modifications I have made to my Robo 3D printer to make it much more reliable and improve the print quality dramatically. I hope these modifications that I have made are useful to the community and serve as a good baseline to get your printer working like a champ. I'm shocked at just how well the printer is working now that I've made these changes!



Thanks,
Jerry (aka. Barnacules)
http://barnnerd.com

 

There is a lot of play in your gears, There is pretty much none in mine, Somethings wrong some where :/

 

Thank you for noticing that, I was not sure if this was the acceptable tolerance or not. I will loosen up the bolts on the motor and move it in tighter now and get it to fit really tight! You should have seen the play between the gear and the nut on the large cog before I added the kapton tape.

 

Yeah, I'm trying to upload a video now showing mine, but I can't even move the big gear with out moving the smaller one.

 

Sweet! Post the link here when your done (or create a new thread and link it here). I would love to see your video, I'm hoping we can get one big thread going with everyone's hacks, fixes, etc to get this thing running perfectly. One of the biggest improvements is putting in the Z-supports, you can increase the print speed quite a bit with them in place and still get a good outcome.

 

Here's the vid, as you can see there's really no play between the gears.

 

I did see a little play between the nut and the gear though, you should try my tape wrapping technique. I think that coupled with how tight your gears are meshed your extrusion would be dead on accurate!

 

I also just watched your video on the slider problem, did you find a fix for it?

 

I havn't done a fix for the rails yet, there isn't much to do other then replacing them, I was working on something but gave up due to lack of CAD ability, Leon has come up with somethings http://forums.robo3dprinter.com/index.php?threads/leons-printer.1227/page-2#post-10556 and I think Jeff(Tesseract) is also working on something.

 

How do I test to see if I need this fix? It seems like the PLA thickness on the first layer looks consistent from end to end on the Y-axis but I haven't printed anything huge yet.

 

People have issues holding 100C on the build platform. I've fixed it by swapping out the polyfuse with a higher amp rated one. If you tried running yours at 100C for a few hours chances are you'll see it shutting off. This is really an issue with the lack of circulation (plus you have a big heater not too high above the board), so just throwing a fan in is the Q&D solution.

Second, HarrisonV isn't affiliated with printersolid.com that's Matt.

Third you should get a dial indicator for bed leveling. You'll see the error much more clearly with it.

 

I have never tried to push the bed beyond 70C so that is probably why I haven't seen the problem. I'll add a cooling fan though just in-case I ever need to I thought Harrison and Matt worked together? And where can I get a dial indicator? Thanks for the info!

 

Harbor freight sells dial indicators if you'd want to pick one up locally. I grabbed an analog one online http://www.amazon.com/TEKTON-7169-0...88516404&sr=1-3-spell&keywords=dial+indicaotr

 

I'm currently working on a different dial indicator holder for the Robo 3D, but I'm not happy with it yet. There's one currently on thingiverse that works but it always faces to the side so it makes it kind of hard to read. My current design has it mounting on the rails around the extruder using magnets to hold on but it's currently very very tight. Need to redesign it to loosen some of the constraints so it glides better.

 

Nice to see you around the forum jerry.

 

Love the video. Thanks for sharing. Please keep the videos coming. They help more than you might think.

Nice to see that this printer keeps evolving. But since I don't have mine yet, I wonder when the Robo team will start incorporating them into the final product since the upgrades seem to make sense.

Like the stabilizer you incorporated for the vertical rods. Makes sense.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

funny how this printer is supposed to fully assembled and calibrated out of the box yet people like me, barnacles and others have to make changes so it will print properly.

there's quite a bit of info in the forum regarding changes done to the robo most of which have been discussed already in the forums and some that you don't show in your video but it is a nice video.

 

Cambo a cheap design isn't always the best design, but some of us are fine with a cheap design.

 

How did you end up wiring the E3D to the power supply? How did you do the LEDs?