New E3d hotend-not a geek -need some help

after printing for about a year (ABS/PLA model)- trying new filaments, I decided to purchase a E3d hotend - sounded like it might solve some issues. installed as per video, but wiring from original hotend didn't look like new wires. I had asked ROBO 3d to confirm original wires, didn't get a response so i did this - thermister (thin wires) to old (thin) black and brown, heater to yellow and black. connected to repetier host and hotend heated up so figured i had it correct. assembled machine -tested with repetier, but it gave an error- temp to high, extruder shut off. fix errors, then M999 to reset. So I tried to upload new marliin, had not done that since purchase and that created an error. Notice red light at arduino no longer lights if that means anything, but repetier does connect, just nothing happens. WHAT DID I DO? If you still need info, I'll try to answer best I can. Need clear instructions please
- Thanks for any help - Mark

 

A high temp error usually also shows a 300+ degree temperature in the hot end. Which typically means one of your thermistor wires is shorted together.

 

thank guys- i double check my work on that - yes it did read over 300. Any ideas on the firmware update ? Does one error screw up everything?

-Mark

 

A short circuit can make the arduino board freak out. You've restarted your computer and all of that?

 

thanks very much - reinstalled thermister and all seems to be working as before. Reloaded the firmware ( i just did a restart yesterday obviously not enough) I'll relevel everything and try to print.
Any tips to know using this hotend over the original model?

thanks again - you all are a great help- wish I knew more, but plan to learn as I go - Mark

 

You might need to run PLA a bit hotter with an all metal hot end. Also seasoning the nozzle is good practice to mitigate clogging.

 

new issue - the filament keeps getting jammed in the new E3D v6 hotend. starts fine - lays down a border, 4x4in on my print - than peters out.
when installing the 2 screws which hold the hotend in place, I was getting some resistance so they are not in all the way - was afraid of stripping them. But my E3D came with a bowden tube and black holder, but I didn't install it.
Is there something I'm missing? - seems like the filament just not feeding properly. Didn't change speed settings from original head

thanks, Mark

 

If it jams on the first layer you're probably too low

 

thanks - I'm using the business card method, like before the hotend swap. I tried lower and higher, but I don't even get to or barely get to the actual printing of the model stage. So I'm thinking it must be the path of the filament from the gear drive into the hotend. Any chance I don't have that aligned properly?

-Mark

 

Does it extrude at a consistent rate if you have it free extrude with the nozzle in the air?

 

yes - comes out clean and uniform when it does come out - I was sure to clean the nozzle tip, but didn't remove it yet completely - hoping to avoid disassembly
-Mark

 

If you've already threaded a guitar string or brass bristle through it then it's probably fine.

Have you seen this guide on the first layer: http://www.printedsolid.com/firstlayer/ ?

 

no I haven't seen this - I'll check it out - thanks

 

I take that back - if the nozzle is in the air, some material comes out, but then it stops. Hadn't really noticed that.
While with the original, it would flowout continuously. So what does this mean?

 

found my problem - had the hotend not seated properly in the feeder. filament was getting hung up as it fed through.
some how got extruder at an angle. tip off should have been how hard it was to reset the 2 holding screws.
thanks for all your help

 

Thought my troubles were over. ABS _I'm out of PLA -jams right at the nozzle. Tried higher temp, slower flow rate-jams after about 12 linear inches laid down. Reading the E3d website,-is says fan need to connect to a 12v source. I hooked into the old fan. Was that wrong? It the new fan to run continuously? I don't recall if the original fan configuration did. If so, I have replaced my arguing board, so I'm familiar with it. What number is a convenient power slot for the 2prong plug?
Also need a little help with the marlin #define TEMP_SENSOR_0 5 as per e3d. Exactly where do I find this and how do I download it. I just ran the marlin latest upload, so I see all those files. Is there one to alter. No idea about software coding so please be specific.
Thanks, mark

 

Yes the E3D fan must run continuously! There are many many threads on this. There are several places to tap off the RAMPS board to get that 12V. See Mikes photo here from an example http://forums.robo3dprinter.com/ind...de-from-kicksatarter-version.2970/#post-25255.

 

Also many many threads on this. Too bad the search engine is so bad here. You need to modify the file called configuration.h in two places. One for the thermistor type one for the max temperature limit. Some of this is on the E3D web site.

Around line 134 change the sensor type to 5. "//" means a commented out or ignored line of code.

//#define TEMP_SENSOR_0 1 //robo
// SLC Change for E3D hotend Semitec thermistor
#define TEMP_SENSOR_0 5​

Around like 160 or so change the max temp to something around 300C

//#define HEATER_0_MAXTEMP 240 //robo
// SLC change for E3D hotend
#define HEATER_0_MAXTEMP 310​

Then download the new firmware with from the Arduino environment.

See Melody's FAQ for the flashing procedure. It is really not difficult or dangerous.
https://docs.google.com/document/d/1fryBbKG8rpOCfsWk3UbcJzHEItqHU0iFY7uVRF3sFx0/mobilebasic?pli=1#