New E3d hotend-not a geek -need some help

Make sure you use the correct version of the firmware for your printer. If you have autoleveling hardware you need a particular version the Mike Kelly has posted.

 

on google use site:forums.robo3dprinter.com

 

Thanks - sounds like to original fan didn't run continuously. Does the new model with the new hot end run continuously?
I've seen that FAQ before. I'll check it out again. Didn't get it first time
-mark

 

May be some confusion here as to which fan. The original Robo3D had only one fan on the X carriage. This is called the Print Cooling Fan and is controlled in software configured by the autocooling setting. An E3D and other metal hot ends like the Robo3D's new one required a fan to continuously cool the heat sink on the hot end to prevent the filament from melting to high up and sticking and jamming (sound familiar). With the new all metal hot ends you need both fan types. Don't get rid of the print fan because you need it for most PLA prints.

 

Thanks -perfect info. So I have to fit both fans on that small carriage. Sounds like a challenge.
Thanks-mark

 

Fitting them is no too bad. Check out Thingiverse for print fan holders. Make sure you get one for the version of E3D that you have V5 or V6. Some have two print fans around the E3D. I have one with a duct on it and blinding white LEDs attached to my own E3D V5 fan holder.

 

Ok - got eveything fired up. change the numbers in the conf.h file as noted. uploaded the marlin firmware again.
now a new problem -
(repetier host) the x axis won't move left. i checked all connections, no broken wires - flipped ramp around.
turned off everythng moved carriage far left until hit switch. turn everything on I have set home, I can move x left and right.
If I move the carriage right, hit home, the x axis will not move left. If I hit home, the Z and Y moves- up.down, forward.back- to check self.
But x only moves right.
resend firmware again - no help.
In mattercontrol - same issue.
just baffled by this.
-Mark

 

Since the X limit switch is on the left side perhaps it thinks it is always triggered, so it will not move any more to the left? Is that microswitch in a normally open or normally closed configuration? I can't remember. If normally closed, one of the wires could be broken, probably under the heat shrink tubing.

Rereading your statement,

"turned off everythng moved carriage far left until hit switch. turn everything on I have set home, I can move x left and right.
If I move the carriage right, hit home, the x axis will not move left. "​

confuses me a bit. Perhaps it is an intermittent open circuit depending on the position of the wires.

I suggest checking the microswitch continuity and operation with a multimeter.

 

Yes, I'm thinking that after removing the carriage on and off several times from the posts, something happen to that switch since it's on a short leash, even though it makes a solid click.
was hoping there was a procedure for setting home I was missing.
-Mark

 

Ran my first print with new hot end. I ran a job that I have run with the original hotend, and indeed there were no goobers, or clumps or strings. Great to see. However, at the end of the print, the head would still not go home even through I printed a 5x5 in part. Moved left and right along the x axis during print-very strange
I'll check all the wire leads again. Even though I was very careful with the carriage, is there a chance the belt has moved on me. Never noticed exactly where the clamp is when set to home position.
-mark

 

Could the X belt tensioner be getting in the way? The stepper belt/pulley would be making a skipping noise if that happened.

 

solved problem - red wire soldered to endstop had indeed come loose. - thanks to everyone for your help
perhaps some day I'll be able to know enough to help others.

MEANTIME - quality question - I have a model I'm printing in parts to avoid having support material.
I have found that since one of the parts need to be printed upside down, i can't seem to get a quality surface when done since the first layer never
really comes out smooth and completed filled like to tops of model usually do.
I tried a brim - but that was no help. Any idea of getting a better result - tried slower print speed, more material feed, and those kinds of setting - no change (repetier host, slicr3)

thanks, Mark

 

Can you post a photo of a model bottom and a photo of a first layer? You really should be able to get a glass smooth first layer especially if you print on hairspray. Every print I do comes out like this. I suspect your first layer is set too high.

 

I will take a photo. Any idea for search language ? I tried that and couldn't find relevant info
Thanks, mark

 

For your older non-autoleveling version just tweak the Z limit screw till the nozzle is a paper thickness above the bed. I used to also tweak the Z screws while the skirt loops where printing to get it just right but I have not needed to do this for a month or so and can't anyways after I did Ziggy's firmware mod to lock the Z servos during each layer.

If the nozzle height is too high it the extrusion won't stick if it is too low the plastic will squish out the side and leave ridges when adjacent lines are put down and push the excess out of the way. Some ridges are OK on the first layer because they tend to get smoothed out and buried by the upper layers. If the ridges are too high the next layer can hit them either knock the print off the bed or loosen the hot end. Look for Tesseract's photos posted many times of a good first layer.

 

I tweet the z height and got clogs. But it turns out I have to run PLA at 210 for all layers, not just first. Print came out very nice.
I still owe you a pic of first layer. Like your opinion on it
-mark