NEW Y Axis Linear Motion System and Print Bed Upgrade

(50 sales/15 per week) is around 3 weeks

He didn't ask how long the lead time was for previous orders, he asked how it would be 'now'


I seriously can't stress enough how RoBo3D is strictly doing this as a favor to the community. They had no obligation to sell these and are making almost no money (in fact they probably lose money after the time spent) on them. I get that it sucks waiting, but just be thankful they're even offering this.

If you're in dire need (aka your printer is currently out of service because the Y axis is broken) contact me and I'll see what can be done. Everyone else I just ask for your understanding that this is a time consuming process and they've been short on parts for it. The orders re going out as fast as possible.

 

Thanks Mike.. but I'm just saying I don't think they can deliver the upgrade in 3 weeks.
And.. I bought the upgrade because they sent me an email.
I am one of the first kickstarter backers, and I live in Spain so I have to pay a lot for delivery, taxes, etc.. I never complain about delivery delays.. But saying they are making me a favor by selling me the upgrade.. sounds exaggerated..
I love my Robo, and I love helping entrepreneurs to start his first business.. but sometimes looks like they are being overwhelmed by the situation.

 

They are, and things are improving rapidly, especially in the 8 weeks since you ordered. Should Jerry keep up his 15 a week, then 3-4 weeks should clear out the back order.

 

Is there way to use the new auto-leveling upgrade with the old heated bed?

 

Sure, just use my method: http://forums.robo3dprinter.com/index.php?threads/robo3d-autolevel-via-mike-kelly.2574/

 

For me, I needed to get printing so badly this weekend that I cut a non-heated bed from 6mm acrylic, by hand, to replace my cracked boro. This piece of junk works great, but it's not very flat. LOL. PLA stiiiiiiicks to acrylic.

I had to add some extra screws with a stack of spring washers so i could pull the 'bow' out of the bed after the y-belt tensioned it up. haha.



I'm still on the fence about upgrading y axis using the kit or my own design with linear rail slides/trucks.

I plan to 3d print stupidly large objects for investment casting in stainless, so it's an opportunity for me to increase the y build volume length by 100mm or so at the same time.

 

I was referring to the new rail system that the bed lies on. I believe the draw rails that came with my robo3d my be bent just slightly that the front pushes up, and this interferes with the correct homing of the z-axis. Is there a way to purchase the new Y-axis bed slider, and install it with the old heat bed.

 

Oh yeah sure. They don't have that option for sale, because the adhesion of the magnets is an important step. But I made my own 3d printed version if you can find 8mm smooth rod at 14", I had to make my own.

I need to compile all my files and share them for others. Been dragging my feet on too many things these days

 

Hey Peter, How did you extend the XXL LCD ribbon cables to reach that mounting location? I looked into doing that and the signal integrity seemed like it would be marginal with ringing. I thought about adding a buffer board but just ended up velcroing the LCD lower down. Does it seem pretty reliable? That is a long path from the Atmel through the RAMPS board to the SD card.

 

Its only 550mm.

I discussed making longer ribbons with a professional electronics engineer friend. When i told him that i wanted to extend the signal ribbon cables between a SDreader controller and a ramps arduino style board, he said "well as long as its under a few meters it should be ok"..... i said that people were having trouble with going to 500mm and he thought it was odd. It seems that if the circuits/ribbons are designed well, to have parrallel grounds between each signal conductor and such, it should be the case that a few meters is fine in similar applications. We know this isn't the case here.

Without studying the design of the ramps or xxl controller i have no idea whether they did the circuit designs for the ribbon cables this well, but i may assume not. since people have trouble with it....

Either way, i made brand new cables with the ribbon conductors seperated, bundled and twisted and wrapped in foil tape.

No gaurantees, but mine work fine, though i drilled holes so i could route the cables through the base of the printer directly under the cover-front-leg-area. ie, not right next to the stepper/heater wires.

 

shim it with paint

 

The 'ribbon' cables are the silver ones in the top left corner

 

Damn your wiring puts me to shame.

 

Thanks.
I'm a Senior Design engineer at a lighting and electronics manufacturing company, so this isn't as neat as it should be.... for 'me' but yeah, it's neater than it needs to be.

 

Where do you get your wire wrap?