Solved not sure how this happened...

I upgraded to the E3D extruder because I ended up breaking the stock one. I followed the video from Novice Expert. I think I might have switched the polarity of some cables when I plugged them back in. when I was testing the Axis that moves the print head vertically up and down only one side of it started moving. So, now it's lopsided. I'm going to watch Novice Experts video on the electrical setup to make sure it's plugged in. This just really concerns me because the axis movement was mostly working (the axis that moves the plate back and forth was banging against the end and making a loud noise) and I started screwing with the wires. I even tested a little print and it worked. I'm so mad at myself. Please help me get the lopsided thing fixed.

 

@Cindy, do you have an R1+? If so, then @Marquis Johnson (Novice Expert) video is for the previous version of the Robo the R1. There are some differences in how the board is wired and the firmware is a different as well. The vertical movement of the print head is the Z axis. For the R1, there was one driver pushing current to both the Z axis motors turning the threaded rods. Now on the R1+ there are two drivers on the RAMPS board pushing current separately to their own Z axis motor. Couple things for you to check is that both motors are plugged in at the motor themselves? Then are the 4 wire plugs plugged into the RAMPS board? On the picture below that is Z motor 1 and Z motor 2.



Also the firmware needs to be updated with the E3D V6 upgrade to define the new thermistor if you didn't reuse the stock on. Did you update the firmware? If so what firmware did you use for the update?

The other change you need, given you have the R1+, is do you have the quick release for the E3D V6? The one stock on the Robo for the stock hot end/nozzle is a bit thinner and you might be seeing some wobble in the hotend.

I know you have just one post and probably can't post pics or links yet. That will be helpful to see what is happening as well. If you do have the R1 instead of the R1+, then we still want to check wiring. The motor that isn't turning might not be properly plugged in. If we can eliminate that, then there are more things to check. Sorry you are having this issue. We'll get you running again.

 

Thank you @danzca6. I upgraded the firmware to v2 when I added an lcd controller. Yes, I have the R1 plus. I was able to fix the z-axis leveling, thanks for the screen shot. The thermistor seems to be working. When I preheat it goes to 210 and stays there. The axis homing is all screwed up though. I don't know if the cables are plugged in right or not. I will go to auto home on the controller and the Z touches down on the bed like it's supposed to bit then the x-axis will go over to the side without a switch and bang until I shut it off. Same with the y axis. I didn't update the quick release thing.

 

So you can home Z, but X and Y don't register when the endstop is triggered correct? Check the wiring on both the X and Y endstops at the board and the endstop. Did you unplug these for any reason while changing the hotend? Are you using Matter Control for printing? If so, have you used the terminal window? You can send an M119 to see the state of each endstop. You can then manually press one in and check M119 again to see if it is triggering.

You might be able to print a new quick release once we get you printing again. May need to add some tape or something to get the hotend to sit tighter until then. http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1192896

 

The reason I unplugged/replugged cables is because in the video I watched (with the old R1 not-plus version) the dude unplugged some wires and yes I did label them (poorly). I won't do it again I promise.

While troubleshooting I realized that I had the Y-motor cable plugged in backwards. For some reason it looks like it has black going left while the others have blue going left. Also, I stopped using the auto home option on my lcd controller (I have the cheapo rep rap one) because it sucks. I tested the end stops from the terminal manually from the matterhacker software on my computer and they all triggered as expected with m119. I decided to try out a print and it homed as expected until the very end of the homing process. The extruder is about an inch up from the board, printing in the air. It's very confused. How to I tell the Z to move down?

 

The Y axis is reversed. There is a wiring video from Robo on the old board. Small differences with R1+ but might be helpful if you need it. Are the X axis end caps sitting on the brass nuts correctly? There should be no more than about 1/4" showing on the bottom. The two Z axis end stops sitting firm against those caps? When it proves the 9 points for auto leveling, does the nozzle touch the bed at each point? Just trying to eliminate an issue with what I call "stair stepping" during the G29 auto level routine.

 

I'm up and running again guys. Thanks for all the help! I printed the quick release plate from thingiverse. I really don't want to install it though. I'm afraid I'll break something else. it printed fine. Is there a compelling reason why I should put it in? Also, why is it called a "quick" release? What's so quick about it?

 

GREAT NEWS! Glad to hear you are printing again. The stock hotend and quick release plate have a smaller slot than the slot at the top of the E3D hot ends. So you might be getting some wobble from the hotend using the stock plate. The new plate is a tad thicker where it wraps around the hotend to secure it better. While the hotend is off and cool, can you feel any wobble when you wiggle it? If so, may want to replace that plate with your new printed one. Just remove the two M4 pan head bolts that stick up through the bottom of the front and back of the x carriage into the nylon lock nuts of the Greg's Wade extruder. Then you can fully remove the old plate and put the new one on. You will have to remove the back part cooling fan first. No wires to unplug

It is called a quick plate because before this plate, there was two screws that would go into the side of the bottom of the Greg's Wade extruder that would fit tight (pinch) against two sides of the same groove in the hotend that the QR plate slides around. Those screws were a real pain to take out and put in. Stripped out easy and just sucked. So the plate lets you just loosen the M4 bolts under the front of the X carriage and the back. The plate then slides to the right allowing the hotend to drop out. Life is a lot easier with it trust me. Just make sure not to drop the hotend on the glass plate...that would make for a bad day.

Cheers!