Unresolved Not sure if I'm using the right settings in MC

It's been about 2 weeks since I got my new Robo3D R1+ printer, and I've had nothing but problems with it from the start. I won't go into the details here, you can see my other threads (Thread 1, Thread 2) for that if you want. Because of these constant issues, I'm trying to distinguish whether the problems I'm having are originating in the hardware, software, or both.

I'm using the MatterControl software that came with my printer, and, for the most part, using the default settings (I have changed a few things like infill %, # of skirt loops, and quality presets). I'm wondering if there are any published "recommended settings" for MatterControl for my printer. I do have a bit of experience using 3D Printers, so I'm familiar with the basics but none of them had nearly as many different settings in their software as MatterControl does, so I didn't want to change anything beyond was I already knew.
I did come across This Thread while searching for a solution to the issues I've been having with keeping my printer level, but the settings appear to be for the R1, not the R1+ and given the hardware differences between the two, and the changes made to the MatterControl software since it was posted, I didn't want to assume it would work for this as well.

Any suggestions?


Oh, and I read somewhere that printing from an SD card was a thing you could do, but I can't find the setting anywhere in MatterControl. Anyone know where to find this? I'm running a Windows 10 computer that likes to reboot without warning. >_>

 

Independent of software, do you know whether or not settings that work on the R1 should also work on the R1+?
I know there were some changes made between the versions to things like the types of lead screws used and the stepper controllers, but did these changes affect any settings you would use to configure the printer (like offset, startup Gcode, etc)?

I feel like if I just knew that I could probably figure out the software interface part.

 

Yes

No

SD card printing is best when using an LCD display, but can be done using matter control. This thread might be helpful with that.

http://community.robo3d.com/index.php?threads/cant-print-from-sd-card.9233/#post-85306

 

Curious as to what slicers you used on your other 3d printers. MC isn't the only software that works with Robo.

 

To clarify, the other printers I've used aren't actually mine, I've just worked on them extensively (a few hundred hours between the two).
Both come with their own proprietary software:

Printer #1
Model: 3D Systems "Cube 2" (this is a terrible printer)
Slicer: Cube Software

Printer #2
Model: Makerbot "Replicator 2x"
Slicer: Makerbot Desktop Software

Neither had much in the way of any advanced options (the Makerbot had far more than the Cube, though), and there was very little configuration needed to start making parts at relatively high accuracy (My biggest gripe was having to do manual build leveling, which I thought I was avoiding by getting an R1+). With those printers though, it was all or nothing, either the parts worked flawlessly or failed spectacularly, with my R1+, the types of "failures" seem to come in a much wider variety.

 

I talked with support about this and I did make corrections to a minor offset of the left side home switch of my printer (both sides match the recommended placement now), however it doesn't seem to have helped much.

As for that video, those are the steps I follow (with some differences due to the different software), but the problem is I have to keep doing it again and again after every single print. The problem isn't because of shipping, the problem is that the printer unlevels ITSELF during each print.

I'm going to try the startup code that was posted HERE and see if that helps any.

 

Did a check just now. As far as I can tell everything mechanical in the printer is attached securely and positioned as intended.

 

Did tech support mention anything about stepper drivers current? With the R1+ having independent z axis drivers on the ramps now, I think it is very important to have each set the same or else during printing one could move more than the other and throw things off. IMO

 

They did not mention anything regarding stepper current.

If it helps at all, here is my complete conversation with them up to this point (newest at the top):

Spoiler: Robo3D Support Transcript

Mark,

I am aware of what the problem is with the z-axis, I'm trying to solve why it KEEPS occurring. I have been correcting that offset in the Z-Axis after every single print I run.
Before each print starts, I make sure the x-axis is level and adjust it if it's not, by manually turning the threaded rod like how you described until the two sides are level with each other. The problem is that DURING the print, the two Z-Axis rods start to get more and more offset from each other, and by the time the print is done, the printer looks like the pictures I provided in my last email (or worse), and the part that was printing will usually have substantial defects as a result. No matter how many times I manually correct the offset, by the time the next print I run is finished, the offset is back again. It's always the left side that is lower too, it's almost like it's not getting as much power as it should be, compared to the right side so it never gets up as high.

If it helps any, I did create several threads on the Robo3d forums regarding the various issues I've been having, that may explain the details better:

- Thread on Printer Calibration issues (answered): http://community.robo3d.com/index.php?threads/calibration-print-issues.9272/
- Thread on Z-Axis and leveling issues: http://community.robo3d.com/index.php?threads/auto-leveling-triggering-in-mid-air.9301/
- Thread on MatterControl config questions: http://community.robo3d.com/index.php?threads/not-sure-if-im-using-the-right-settings-in-mc.9335/


--------------------------------------------
SEP 30, 2016 | 05:41PM PDT
Mark replied:


Chris,

It doesn’t look like your X axis is parallel to the print bed. Lower the Z axis a couple of millimeters off the bed and slide the extruder to one side. Just pay attention to the gap between the nozzle and the while sliding the extruder to the other side. You will want to adjust one side to make this gap consistent across the bed. You can do this by turning the threaded rods with your hand to raise or lower each side.

Mark

Mark G.
Robo3D Inc
www.Robo3d.com
https://www.facebook.com/Robo3dPrinter/

--------------------------------------------
SEP 30, 2016 | 05:41PM PDT
help
Well, it seems like I fix one issue and another one pops up.


Progress since last time:
- Tightened Y-Axis Belt per instructions
- Tightened set screws in X-Axis and Y-Axis pulleys
- Adjusted position of the left side Z-Axis limit switch bracket (right side was already correct)

I was unable to tighten X-Axis pulley, the instructions given were unclear as to how to do this, I don't understand how cutting and replacing the zip tie will help.
These changes did appear to correct most of the lateral drift of layers, but there are still occasionally layer shifts of up to 0.1" to one side for no apparent reason.


Ongoing Problems:
- The Z-Axis continues to end prints in an inconsistent position, forcing me to manually level the two lead screws before EVERY print
--- I use a leveling app on my smartphone placed across the X-Axis bars to measure the offset between prints, and it measures between 0.5-2 degrees offset between the lead screws after each print
--- The offset is enough to cause the X-Carriage to lift up off of the limit switch bracket (while still being correctly attached to it), resulting in the limit switch not triggering, and auto-leveling failures
--- Here are some pictures I took after a print finished (note the Z-axis was leveled and verified manually prior to the print starting): http://imgur.com/a/CKlY5

- I am still unable to use any spot on the build platform, except the lower 1/3 right corner of the build platform, without the print failing spectacularly (pile of plastic ooze)
- Still unable to print at any resolution higher than "Low" (0.3mm layer height) without failing.


New Problems:
- Build Grinding: During part builds, it appears that the extruder head is moving too close to the part, resulting in a terrible (and LOUD) grinding sound and a strange texture on the final part.
--- Video highlighting this issue here:
--- Has not yet caused any issues with part adhesion


Thanks again for the help,


--------------------------------------------
SEP 27, 2016 | 04:39PM PDT
Mark replied:
Chris,

You can watch this video here to make sure everything is in order with homing the extruder.
http://guide.robo3d.com/Guide/Homing+Your+Extruder/7

Thank you,
Mark

Mark G.
Robo3D Inc
www.Robo3d.com
https://www.facebook.com/Robo3dPrinter/

--------------------------------------------
SEP 27, 2016 | 04:38PM PDT
Mark replied:
Hi Chris,

Thank you for your email. Can you verify if your Z axis endstop brackets are in place. Here are a couple of videos that show you exactly what you have to do. Also it is very important to follow the last step to make sure the X axis is still parallel to the bed:

http://download.robo3d.com/videos/LeftSide_Z_EndstopBracket.mp4
http://download.robo3d.com/videos/RightSide_Z_EndstopBracket.mp4

Here is also a photo that shows how your bracket should be positioned.
http://download.robo3d.com/pictures/GoodPositionOfZBracket.jpg

After that you will need to make sure the X axis is still parallel to the bed. To do this you just need to lower the Z Axis a couple of millimeters from the bed and slide the extruder to one side. Now pay attention to the gap between the nozzle and the bed while sliding the extruder to the other side. You will want to adjust one side to make this gap consistent across the bed. You can do this by turning the threaded rods with your hand to raise or lower each side.

Thank you,
Mark

Mark G.
Robo3D Inc
www.Robo3d.com
https://www.facebook.com/Robo3dPrinter/

--------------------------------------------
SEP 27, 2016 | 03:59PM PDT
help
Mark,

It looks like my printer was shipped with the wrong allen wrenches, because neither of them are even close to fitting in the pulley set screws, one wrench is too big and the other is too small.
I will try to see if I have a compatible allen wrench around somewhere.

I'm not entirely clear on how replacing the zip tie on the x-axis belt will tighten it, could you elaborate on this point a bit?
I was able to tighten the y-axis without any issues though.

The issue I'm having with my prints does appear to be mostly on the x-axis.


On a separate note, I've had problems getting the z-axis to stay level throughout test prints I've done, it seems like the lead screw on one side will get out of sync with the other resulting in a significant tilt in the X Carriage to the point where the z-axis limit switches either don't touch or always touch the carriage resulting in zeroing and auto-leveling to fail. I've been using a "level" program on my phone to manually correct this between every print, but I would think this not how the printer is supposed to function normally.


Thanks for the help,

Chris


P.S. I tried calling the "24/7" support number on several occasions before I spoke with you and whenever it told me to "press 1 to hold" it would just redirect me back to the main menu in an infinite loop of frustration. Not sure if it's intentional or not, but it's very annoying to deal with. I'd much rather just wait and listen to elevator music if possible.


--------------------------------------------
SEP 27, 2016 | 11:14AM PDT
Mark replied:
Hello,

Shifting layers and irregular circles are two print imperfections that usually stem from the same set of problems.
 They usually come from either a loose belt on the X or Y axis, or from a motor pulley that has come
unsecured from the motorshaft.
 Shifting from back to front is most likely a Y axis belt/ pulley issue while left to right is an X axisissue.
 The Y axis belt can be tightened by a phillips screw driver on the Y axis bracket
 The X axis belt can be tightened by replacing and tightening the zip tie that attaches the X belt tothe
extruder carriage.
 Pulleys can be tightened with the allen wrench that was included in your tool kit.
 It is a good idea to check and tighten the belt /pulley on both of these axis if you are unsure ofwhich
is causing the problem.

Please let me know if this will help.

Thank you,
Mark

Mark G.
Robo3D Inc
www.Robo3d.com
https://www.facebook.com/Robo3dPrinter/

 

Sounds good, I might give that a try after this current build I'm running. I did change out the default startup Gcode for the code in the thread I mentioned earlier and printed a part, and much to my shock, the Z axis was almost perfectly level when the part was complete. I'm trying again with a taller part to see for sure if this corrected the issue or not.


On a slightly off-topic note, is there a way to correct for the printer building too close to the previous layer? I'm wondering if that's one of the issues I'm having with grinding noises and the strange outer finish texture.

 

That would explain a lot actually... >_>