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Nozzle Thermistor

Discussion in 'Show and Tell' started by Rick Zhang, Dec 4, 2013.

  1. Rick Zhang

    Rick Zhang New Member

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    I recently powered up my newly received Robo3D and was going through the guidebook. I got to the testing heating up the nozzle part and the guide book said to set it to 230 degrees (but the picture shown was set to 190 degrees). I set the temperature to 230 degrees and after a while my temperature reading started going haywire (going up to 250 degrees, even after I switched off everything). I deduced (by measuring the resistance of the thermistor) that the nozzle thermistor had broken.

    What is the part number for the nozzle thermistor that is used on the Robo3D?

    Also, why does the guide book say to heat it up to 230 C if none of the materials need the temperature to be that high? Should it be changed so it doesn't burn out someone else's thermistor?

    Thanks
     
    2 people like this.
  2. Ben Lindstrom

    Ben Lindstrom Active Member

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    It is best to ignore the pictures...And honor the text that is on the page. The screen shots are semi-default slicing settings.
     
  3. Mike Kelly

    Mike Kelly Volunteer

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    If your thermistor is jumping to a very high temperature (250+) without heat then your thermistor line has a short circuit somewhere.

    We will need to determine where the short is occurring by following the line from the ramps board (connected to T0) to the extruder. Hopefully the short isn't on the thermistor itself, but it's possible.

    If the short is on the the head of the thermistor, it will be necessary for you to file a support claim (main page > contact us > technical support) and explain what troubleshooting you've done and that you need a new thermistor. It might be possible to fix it without needing a new one so let's make sure there aren't any obvious short circuits.

    The thermistor is: EPCOS B57560G104F but be aware the head size can vary greatly. The replacements I ordered off amazon have a huge glass bulb and would never have fit in my stock hot end. I'm ordering another set off of mouser to see if they're more size appropriate.

    230C is used for ABS so that covers both bases if someone tries to load in ABS but the extruder is too cold.
     
  4. bringjustn

    bringjustn Member

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    Mike I broke my thermistor, where you able to order one from Mouser that worked? using the part number you posted, I came up with a discontinued part, but they suggested this one http://tinyurl.com/mmov6bx


    or should I try this set? http://www.amazon.com/RepRap-Thermistors-EPCOS-B57560G104F-Mendel/dp/B00C7EV5GK and make the hole bigger?
     
  5. Mike Kelly

    Mike Kelly Volunteer

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    For future reference they claim it's an epcos thermistor but I believe it's a Semitec Thermistor instead. They use this on the v5 E3D and I'm 99% confident it's what the robo originally used.
     
  6. bringjustn

    bringjustn Member

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    I just ordered 2 of them (might as well buy a spare) I'll post up my findings. :) hopefully I'll be up and running soon
     
  7. im1badmf

    im1badmf New Member

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    There has to be a more reliable method of monitoring the heat. I've had my printer for only a week also and have never gotten any reliability out of either the hot end or the bed. This has been pretty much since day one. I've been lucky on occasion by jiggling the wires near the hot-end to get that to work. but two and a half hours today and nothing. I think the printer is lucky it won't fit through my third floor window.
    [​IMG]
     
  8. AxisLab

    AxisLab Well-Known Member

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    I had the erratic temperature jumping about a month ago, freaked me out. I found thanks to mike here, right at the board, the thermistor is on To , the clip was pressed in all the way but one of the 2 wires inside the little plastic clip wasn't seated. I just clicked it in and re plugged it. Works great now for me.
     
  9. im1badmf

    im1badmf New Member

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    Thanks, I'll give a shot when get in.

    Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk
     

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