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Nozzle type

Discussion in 'General Questions' started by Bart Herbek, Jul 24, 2015.

  1. Bart Herbek

    Bart Herbek New Member

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  2. Mike Kelly

    Mike Kelly Volunteer

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    Makerbot's use the same M6 thread but with 5mm of thread length while hexagons have a 6.2mm thread length.

    Now it is possible to make it work assuming you can thread the portion of the heat break into the heater block to accomodate for the 1.2mm.just be sure not to leave a gap. Tighten the nozzle down then turn it 1/4 turn out. Tighten down the heat break until it contacts the nozzle making sure not to have too much pressure the fragile neck. Should be fine then vb./<
     
  3. Bart Herbek

    Bart Herbek New Member

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  4. Mike Kelly

    Mike Kelly Volunteer

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    You'd need to ask them what the threadable length is.
     
  5. Printed Solid

    Printed Solid Volunteer Admin
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    Hey there. I highly advise against getting junk chinese hot ends off of ebay.
    I am familiar with the first nozzles you linked though and I believe it to be good quality. I actually have a few in stock, but haven't tested them to list on the site. I can check later to see if they work with the hexagon.
    Your best bet is really to go with an E3D hotend. They've done a fair amount of work on optimizing the internal nozzle geometry for optimal performance. They are compatible with the stock hot end (the hexagon). I've got them available here: http://printedsolid.com/collections/accessories-and-upgrades/products/e3d-v6-replacement-nozzle

    If you go up to something like a 0.6mm diameter, you'll find that clogs are a thing of the past and your prints complete much quicker.
     
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  6. jtn7040

    jtn7040 Active Member

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    when moving up with nozzle diameter is there a sweet spot for layer height depending on the nozzle width? how do you calculate the min/max layer height each nozzle is capable of?
     
  7. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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  8. Printed Solid

    Printed Solid Volunteer Admin
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    I don't buy into the minimum range though. 30% is higher than the 100 microns that can be easily and reliably printed well with most 0.4mm nozzles (25%) and certainly significantly higher than the 50-80microns that extremely well set up printers like Ultimakers run on a regular basis.
    Personally, I've gotten great prints out of a 0.8mm at 100 microns (12%).

    I think this boils down to one of those, if you want to try it then try it, types of things.
     
  9. jtn7040

    jtn7040 Active Member

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    Is there any true advantage to having a larger/smaller nozzle then? For larger I would assume less torque required to flow material however it would ooze significantly higher than a .25?

    Sent from my SM-N915T using Tapatalk
     
  10. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    Higher extrusion rates with a larger nozzle.
    More mass can be pushed through.
     
  11. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    Not rules... guidelines ;)

    Yea, if your printer is well calibrated you can do a lot more than what they suggest.
     
  12. Mike Kelly

    Mike Kelly Volunteer

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    Nozzle diameter primarily affects bend radius of features. Layer height is more a function of proper feed calibration and slice settings.
     
  13. Printed Solid

    Printed Solid Volunteer Admin
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    I
    I don't even buy into it as a guideline. It's just too far off from the reality of prints that people have shared.
    I had a friend at work explaining to me that he read a thorough evaluation on some website where they conclusively proved that it is physically impossible to print ABS below 200 microns. I think showed him the 50 micron print I carry on my keychain...
     
  14. WheresWaldo

    WheresWaldo Volunteer ( ͠° ͟ʖ ͡°)
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    Matt, you are missing the whole point of the internet. If its there it must be true.
     
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  15. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    Yea, crazy RepRap dudes... :)
     

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