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Palette 2/Palette 2 Pro

Discussion in 'Projects' started by AlienBeans, Aug 25, 2018.

  1. AlienBeans

    AlienBeans Active Member

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    Where will I find this information. I took the palette 2 out of the mix and the prints are perfect. I know the z offset is the problem I just don't know where to look for the issue.
     
  2. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    Hmmm. When you slice it for Chroma what are you using? Let me know what the process is you are doing and we can figure out where it goes.
     
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  3. AlienBeans

    AlienBeans Active Member

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    I'm not using Chroma. I sliced it in Canvas and it outputs two files. One for the palette and a gcode file for the printer that I load into octoprint.
     
  4. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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  5. AlienBeans

    AlienBeans Active Member

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  6. AlienBeans

    AlienBeans Active Member

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    I grabbed the start and end gcode settings from Cura in the printer profile. Pasted that into Canvas/palette 2 setup and now the print head is grinding into the build plate and has scratched the build plate. I'm beyond pissed now.
     
  7. Geof

    Geof Volunteer Moderator
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    I would really reach out to mosaic as it sounds like an issue on their end. Unfortunately I don’t know anyone with a Robo and palette 2 gen so I can’t offer and worthwhile advice
     
  8. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    Yea, me either. I got the Palette (v1) we use from someone else used and haven't had a lot of time to mess about with it. Basic testing seems to show it does what it says on the tin, but just to get different colors? Not high on my list of must-haves :)
    The palette 2 has more options, but is new enough I am not sure we have (m)any folks using it here on the forum yet ... well other than @AlienBeans :)
     
  9. AlienBeans

    AlienBeans Active Member

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    I wouldn't clasify myself as actually USING it yet. :):( I've yet to get an remotely successful print. Hell, I can barely get 4-5 layers into the print until it detatches from the bed and now this.
     
  10. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    That may be part of the problem. What they use is not really a "Z offset" (it is a bit different in that it is an offset fed to the autoleveling calculation sequence). Then Marlin changed the autoleveling entirely with 1.1.x which has not simplified things any.

    Have you checked the startup GCode you end up with at the various steps to make sure that the commands that need to be there are actually there? (the home, the autoleveling offset, the autoleveling command, etc)

    This is getting run through a lot of different programs to get to GCode so ...
     
  11. AlienBeans

    AlienBeans Active Member

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    I have not. I will try to take a look at that over the next few days.
     
  12. Geof

    Geof Volunteer Moderator
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    the software struggle is real :D Kinda like when you cam a CNC. Yea you get mostly working tool paths, but still have to learn to manually edit to get the best part possible. Hang in there, might try finding someone that has a working Pallete 2 and discussing it with them as well if your waiting to hear back from Mosaic.
     
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  13. AlienBeans

    AlienBeans Active Member

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    Ok. Update. Turns out it appears the zoffset being set in canvas is not the way to go. I had moved that setting to canvas as part of the printer profile. I removed that and copied the gcode start and end sequences into Canvas and am doing a 4 color calibration print now. I'll definitely post a picture of the results. Everything is looking really good so far. Thanks everybody for all the help. :)
     
  14. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    Just document what you did in a project thread :)
     
  15. AlienBeans

    AlienBeans Active Member

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    Thought some might like to see the results of my first 2 color print. In case some don't know, the block on the left is what palette refers to as a transition tower. Doing a 3 color lizard right now.
    Keychain.jpg
     
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  16. AlienBeans

    AlienBeans Active Member

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    Well the 3 color lizard ended up being only 2 colors as one of them didn't print at all. What did print wasn't remotely close to what it was supposed to be. So, I went back and did the same keychain print you see above. Tried it today and the screen on my R2 is wigging out. Screen started wigging out during the lizard print yesterday but the print finished even though it was wrong.

    The screen was detecting presses and selections on the screen and would go (most often) to the camera on/off screen. Several times it would go to the extruder temp screen. There were multiple times I couldn't use the back button to return to the main screen showing the progress of the print. During the keychains print today the unit actually paused (I'm guessing false press on the screen) and I coulnd't get back to the main screen to resume the print. It wouldn't let me go anywhere so I had to abort the print by turning the machine off and manually lowering the bed.
     
  17. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    Make sure the touch screen is not getting "touched" by the edge of the case pressing on it.
    It is not a capacitive touch screen (resistive -- old tech) and that can happen.
    If it is the screen under warranty get Robo to replace it, but they are pretty cheap from SunFounder/Amazon/BangGood... Just keep a spare handy :)
     
  18. AlienBeans

    AlienBeans Active Member

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    nothing is in front of the printer when its running so no way anything is touching the screen. I will likely pick one up at amazon although changing it out appears pretty daunting. I've reached out to robo about it so I'll report back here what they tell me.
     
  19. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    I meant the frame of the printer itself is touching the LCD mounted in that frame :) It has happened to a couple of folks ... It is a bit of disassembly to get to the LCD @Geof has it documented for the R2 I am pretty sure (and I did it on the C2).
     
  20. Geof

    Geof Volunteer Moderator
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    Yep there is a half thread. If your not technical I don’t suggest it unless you have no other option
     

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