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Unanswered Part cooling fan configuration.

Discussion in 'Troubleshooting' started by Oisin, Oct 25, 2016.

  1. Rigmarol

    Rigmarol Well-Known Member

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    Yeah, I ran out of green and decided to give a spool change a try. Worked out pretty well for my first time.
     
  2. Oisin

    Oisin Member

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    No I use a .25 nozzle as well. I don't have any other size.

    Thanks very much for the code! I'll run it when I get home. Just testing out some different fan shrouds on that print right now.
     
  3. Geof

    Geof Volunteer Moderator
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    @Oisin my gcode won't work for you. It's set up for my .4 nozzle, unless you can change it around before you run it.
     
  4. Oisin

    Oisin Member

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    Ah gotcha. I'll remember to change it before running. I'll need to change the start code anyway since I run the ir sensor instead of the z-probes. It's just nozzle diameter I need to change right?
     
  5. Geof

    Geof Volunteer Moderator
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    Nozzle diameter and extrusion width. I'll re slice with my .25 profile if you want?
     
  6. Oisin

    Oisin Member

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    If you wouldn't mind. Sorry to trouble you over it.
     
  7. Geof

    Geof Volunteer Moderator
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    @Oisin shoot me a PM with your email address. the zip file gcode is to large to attach.
     
  8. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    Yea, been said before but I will say it again .. your best layer heights are somewhere in the 40-60% size of the nozzle diameter.
    So for a 0.4 nozzle 0.2 is about best. Can you do less? Sure, you just are not in the sweet spot so .. as @Geof says go with a smaller nozzle.
     
  9. Oisin

    Oisin Member

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    Only just got home now to look at the code you send along Geof. It looks like you've got a pretty different way of slicing prints than I have, which is great. Hopefully your method works miles better than mine does. I don't have nearly as many perimeters, which means the printer has to 'fill in' the tip of each overhang, meaning the hotend hovers over each tip for a lot longer. The perimeters in your should mean it passes over each overhang rather than sticking around to fill it in. We'll see the results tomorrow.
     
  10. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    He probably used Simplify3D.
     
  11. Oisin

    Oisin Member

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    I also use Simplify3D.
     
  12. Geof

    Geof Volunteer Moderator
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    I did. I always use 1 mm worth of perimeters. So 10 .1 mm layers. Stronger performance :)
     
  13. Oisin

    Oisin Member

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    No luck with that unfortunately, Geof. I've uploaded my 0.2mm profile. Maybe someone could take a look at it and see what settings I might have wrong? Surely it can't be my cooling anymore since I have dual 40 X 20mm fans and people have much better results with a single 40 x 10mm fan. It must be my ducting. There are surprisingly few shrouds on Thingiverse for the Robo with an E3D V6. I counted around 3 but they all produce a lot of backpressure.

    Edit:
    In the file I attached, my 'Outline/Perimeter Shells' should be 3 and my speed should be 25mm/s. That's what I normally use. The 12 and 55 are only there because I was testing.
     

    Attached Files:

  14. Geof

    Geof Volunteer Moderator
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    Hmmmm.........

    1. if you grab the hotend and try to wiggle it does it move around ?

    2. If you pluck the x belt does it twang?

    3. Got a picture of the fail?

    4. If you slide the x and y to full ends is it smooth ?
     
  15. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    5. Have you tried another spool of filament?
     
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  16. Oisin

    Oisin Member

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    1. No it's solid. I used to have that problem but using screws 0.5mm larger than the holes in the carriage have sorted that problem out.

    2. Yes that's nice and tight. It isn't rigid but makes a twanging sound when plucked.

    3. I attached a picture on my last post. Do you want a different one?

    4. The x-axis is very smooth up until about 30mm from the homing position where it gets slightly more difficult to move. Not remarkably so though. The y-axis is not that smooth to move manually, but moves fine when powered by the stepper.

    5. No I haven't. This spool is quite old as well (about 4 months). I have tons of unused filament so I didn't want to buy a new one.
     
  17. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    The reason I asked is because the way the print is failing (at least the curl on the overhang) can be caused by the filament (wet filament for example). Be a shame to bang you head against something simple :)

    You can dry wet filament, there are a number of approaches.
     
  18. Oisin

    Oisin Member

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    Yeah that's true. I was aware of the issues that can arise with older filament and I have had a few cases of issues caused by it that were resolved when I got new filament. Maybe I'll have to take the financial loss of the old filament and try out a new spool. Definitely need to find some effective ducts though. Do you have any dual shroud recommendations?
     
  19. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    I have two robos side by side. One has the volcano adapter and the other a normal E3D.
    I have a ducted fan shroud on the volcano and no shroud at all on the other one.

    There is no appreciable difference.

    If you don't replace the stock fans you are really not going to see night and day differences with or without a shroud. The stock fans just don't move a lot of air. That said, they both work fine so you can get enough cooling. Only thing I have to do is set a minimum layer print time on the Volcano one since smaller models stay too hot, too long.
     
  20. Oisin

    Oisin Member

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    Fair enough. I'm assuming I should have more than enough cooling then. But there's still a problem happening somewhere. I'll try new filament.
     

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