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Solved Pesky clog and nozzle removal.

Discussion in 'Troubleshooting' started by Lord_Surl, Aug 27, 2015.

  1. Lord_Surl

    Lord_Surl Member

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    Ok, so let me set the context here: I just got some wood filament from Alchement.com, and I put it in after printing with ABS. I took all the necessary steps to clear out the remaining ABS, and the extruder was easily pulling the wood filament through. I then set the temp to recommended levels (190 degrees) for the wood, and began printing.

    Long story short, the wood only printed for 5 minutes before filament stopped coming out. I tried pulling it out, but there is a lot of goopy shit near the nozzle. When I say nozzle, I mean the very end bit where the plastic actually comes out, not the whole metal piece.

    Anyway, I want to remove the nozzle to clean out that goopy stuff, but I wasn't sure if it was meant to come off or if there is some special trick to not breaking it. Do you guys have any advice? Have you experienced this before?
     
  2. Mike Kelly

    Mike Kelly Volunteer

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    Remove the rubber boot and then you can grip the nozzle and heater block with wrenches and loosen the nozzle. Will allow you to remove it and clean it.
     
  3. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    And going forward you might want to increase the nozzle size a bit for the composite filaments like wood/stone/etc... they do prefer something a little larger than 0.4 (you can get a 0.4 to work, but you might be better off with a larger one).
     
  4. Lord_Surl

    Lord_Surl Member

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    Ok, thanks! Thats what I was thinking of doing, but I'm better safe than sorry haha

    As someone who is still fairly new to 3d printing in general, how would I go about doing this? I'm guessing that the nozzle isn't adjustable, so would I have to buy another nozzle?
     
  5. Mike Kelly

    Mike Kelly Volunteer

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    Yup buying another nozzle from someone like printedsolid.com is a good option
     
  6. Lord_Surl

    Lord_Surl Member

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    Crazy idea here... If I got a steel filament, couldn't I just print my own nozzle?
     
  7. WheresWaldo

    WheresWaldo Volunteer ( ͠° ͟ʖ ͡°)
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    I wish that were the case, unfortunately, there is barely any metal in the metal infused filaments. So you would be printing a plastic nozzle, with some metal in it.
     
  8. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    Yea, unless you have an SLA printer with Steel powder handy... @WheresWaldo is 100% correct.

    (I have a parts pile, but the DLP has to get finished first before I start on the SLA)
     
  9. Mike Kelly

    Mike Kelly Volunteer

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    Wouldn't you need SLS?
     
  10. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    Yes, my bad. Typo :)
     
  11. Lord_Surl

    Lord_Surl Member

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    Update: So I tried to take it off, but that sucker is either on there REALLY tight, or its being stuck by the gunk.
     
  12. WheresWaldo

    WheresWaldo Volunteer ( ͠° ͟ʖ ͡°)
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    You are trying to remove the nozzle hot, aren't you!
     
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  13. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    Excellent point. You should be removing it hot...
    Awkward, I know.
     
  14. Lord_Surl

    Lord_Surl Member

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    So I'm supposed to do this when the nozzle is hot? How hot is it supposed to be? Also, why would this have any affect on weather or not the nozzle comes off?
     
  15. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    As two dissimilar metals that are bound together with a thread (i.e. brass and aluminum or steel and aluminum--you know, what the heater block and the nozzle are made of) heat and cool they either get tighter or looser due to the different coefficients of expansion for the metals (they expand and contract at different rates).

    The thought for hot torque is that the metal differences will cause the joint to be looser if you tighten/torque it in place cold and then get it very hot. If you torque it hot then it stays tight (this presumes the metals will tighten up as they contract--the threads). The idea is that it will bind tighter as the metal cools and contracts.

    Sorry, science isn't pretty hope that helps.
     
    #15 mark tomlinson, Aug 28, 2015
    Last edited: Aug 28, 2015
  16. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    P.S. I change my nozzles hot. It is not impossible, just harder. Be careful that is the real point.
     
  17. Lord_Surl

    Lord_Surl Member

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    Update: Success! I heated it up to 235 degrees and gave it one hell of a twist, and it came right off! All my problems seem to have stemmed from a small fragment of wood filament stuck right at the very edge of the nozzle. I still don't know why it got stuck, but it certainly explains why it was fairly hard to unscrew some of the stuff and why there was black goop.

    I'm attempting to clean it out now, but its pretty crusted and hard. I will update again soon!
     
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  18. Frankn

    Frankn Member

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    I think, what I would have done would have to run the heat up to ABS temp. You could have just pulled the wood fiber right out. Then feed some ABS thru to clear it.. It would have been worth the try. Just a thought. Frank
    Funny face-flower.jpg
     
  19. Lord_Surl

    Lord_Surl Member

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    This is actually the first thing I did haha. The problem with that is the wood stuck near the end was actually burned, making extrusion of it impossible. What I ended up doing was soaking the nozzle in water for a while so removing the wood was a breeze. On the other parts of the hot end, a small drill bit spun by hand did the job very well.
     
  20. Frankn

    Frankn Member

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    Glad it turned out OK for you. Frank thumb up 700 copy.jpg
     

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