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Discussion in 'Troubleshooting' started by Galaxius, Nov 15, 2014.
Whenever $hxx is out of whack
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My luck has that happening in the last hour of a 24 hour print (hence, the oiler).
Very cool, How much easier is to to have the oiler then to season it each time?
Just add oil periodically.
(and not too much).
Alright, i just read through the thread and I'll add some comments of my own.
When I first got the printer in June of this year it worked really well on PLA, no issues. I got some ABS to try shortly after and it wouldn't print. It would start, get a little then stop. I added an oiler to the filament line and it fixed it up pretty nicely. It has been working well for the last few months.
so i am running an oiler and it works awesome i finally got successful print.. i add 2 drops every hour of printing and that seems to work for me. just need to find a spool not so tightly wound or make a spool holder with bearings in it.
i have the oiler on top of my ROBO. I left the printer for 3 weeks while is was on vacation and the PLA between the oiler and the extruder was very brittle. I had to remove about a foot of filament. I remade the oiler with a path to remove the filament from the oiler without taking it out of the extruder. I will remove it when I travel from now on
Hi Barry, could you post the model for your modified oiler? Thanks.
I'm still new to 3D printing, so I'm trying to fill in some blanks here. It seems the "oiler" most people are talking about is just a little 'cup' and they put a piece of cotton (or something?) inside, and occasionally add a few drops of Canola? I get the vessel and I get the oil itself, but how the oil gets applied to the filament is the part I'm not totally getting.
The R1plus I picked up this week has a little 'guide' that rides along the top opening for the filament, seems like it might be neat to combine these two parts (as opposed to an oiler that just sits at the top of the extruder or the top of the unit without any other support), I might try to combine the two ideas once I get better with the modeling software. - Will
I use a sponge soaked in Canola, but otherwise you are correct. By rubbing against the sponge as it feeds down into the hotend the filament picks up a fine sheen of oil. That is all it needs.
Hello, I'm new to the thread and recently acquired my Robo 3D R1 plus printer. After a few prints using PLA filament, I switched to ABS and my troubles began - messed up prints, etc. I will try the oiler route and hopefully my troubles will go away. Thanks for all the tips.
An oiler will not help ABS filament.
It will not hurt either, but don't waste time expecting it to help with ABS.
@MarkTomlinson, Thank you for your feedback. I am thinking of changing the nozzle to stainless steel. Would that help? Other suggestions would be welcomed. Thanks.
Won't change the ABS printing experience short-term. It only helps for longer term nozzle wear.
If you print a lot of more abrasive filaments (mostly the specialty ones like wood, stone, etc.) then it helps the nozzle last a lot longer.
Let's make sure you don't spend money needlessly. There are two types of steel nozzles, Stainless Steel and Hardened Steel.
Stainless Steel doe NOT provide any significant advantage with regard to nozzle wear over the brass nozzles. One disadvantage of Stainless Steel over brass is that Stainless Steel does not conduct heat as well as brass does and may result in clogging. Stainless Steel nozzles are here to solve problems for the food and medical industries. Brass alloys contain Lead and anything printed with a brass nozzle runs the risk of having Lead deposited with the extrusion. Is this a real threat? Only you can determine, as we are speaking about trace amounts. Will it last longer than a brass nozzle? Maybe, probably, but there is no guarantee nor should there be any expectation that it will.
Hardened Steel nozzles are specifically heat treated and created to solve wear issues with abrasive filaments. If you want a nozzle that will last a "lifetime" (whatever that means) then Hardened Steel is the nozzle type to get. It does not comply with regulations regarding Lead that Stainless Steel does, but it doesn't have to.
Just make sure you select the correct nozzle for it's intended use.
I second the notion of using hardened steel over stainless. I swapped to hardened on the Volcano nozzle equipped machine because we tend to use that one the most. Either way neither of these will have a significant impact in how ABS is printed.
Usually I suggest people sanity check their need for ABS. Yes, there are some specific reasons for ABS, but it needs to be a combination of PRICE and one of the other things because all of the other 'features' of ABS can be met or exceeded by other less problematic filaments... they just tend to be more expensive. I our case that never really comes into play, but for others it might.
Best oil to avoid jams: After experimenting with several oils, including canola and corn oil, I found the best results were with Office Depot shedder lubricant. It is a vegetable based oil. I add a drop to my oiler after every kg of filament use. It seasoned the extruder well and I have had no issues since I started with this oil.
I kept playing with oilers for a while... Now I put a coat of WS2 spray down the bore and it works for a long time (usually a print pops loose from the bed and snags a wire and causes the machine to need help); http://www.atl-3d.com/extruder-dry-lube/
Has anyone tried grapeseed oil that is all I have aside from olive oil
any vegetable oil will work. Some just a bit better is all.