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Solved Print head going too low during larger prints

Discussion in 'Troubleshooting' started by darcangeloel, May 16, 2016.

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  1. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    If you have broken something on the Hexagon... Just buy a new Hexagon or upgrade to an E3D.

    https://printedsolid.com/

    He has some bundles he will do so you can get the E3D, an LCD, Stud Thermistor and Simplify3D (or combinations of them).

    You can get a Hexagon for about $40 if you prefer to go that route or under warranty give Robo3D a ring.
     
    #21 mark tomlinson, May 17, 2016
  2. Geof

    Geof Volunteer Moderator
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    Printed solid.is my go to shop. Great guy great buisness.
     
    #22 Geof, May 17, 2016
  3. darcangeloel

    darcangeloel Member

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    What E3d kit would you recomend? Do they work much better and last much longer than hexagon extruder... if so why doesn't robo install those? I've done a decent amount of work fixing the printer and rerunning cables so I think I'd be up for it if you think its super worth it? Amazon kit would be best for me as I have prime and can't wait :)
     
    #23 darcangeloel, May 17, 2016
  4. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    They are repairable. You can buy individual bits and fix things.
    They are higher quality construction.

    I'd go the extra and get the full-on E3D v6, but if money is an issue get the v6 lite.

    Ask Mike (printedsolid) if he can upgrade you to a 40w heater core, but if not they are dirt cheap: do that as part of the upgrade: http://www.amazon.com/TOOTO-Reprap-Ceramic-Cartridge-Printer/dp/B019Q6AN96)
     
    #24 mark tomlinson, May 17, 2016
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  5. Geof

    Geof Volunteer Moderator
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    In my opinion its a great hotend.

    I do recoment buying from printedsolid as he stands by his product with no bs. You do have to assemble the hotend which isnt bad but a stud thermistor is a must. I believe you can checkout with amazon from his store.
     
    #25 Geof, May 17, 2016
  6. darcangeloel

    darcangeloel Member

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    Is the difference significant from lite vs the full version? Oddly the lite version is cheaper than a replacememt hex. The volocano one looks kinda epic. All in all money isn't a major issue.
     
    #26 darcangeloel, May 17, 2016
  7. Geof

    Geof Volunteer Moderator
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    The lite has a 240 or 260 deg cut off. I went for the full v6 because of that. Do i need it...not really... but i like knowing that i can. Matt at printed solid can hook you up with the lcd controller and full v6 with the stud thermistor and youd be good to go.

    I cant remember do you have a r1 or r1+?
     
    #27 Geof, May 17, 2016
  8. darcangeloel

    darcangeloel Member

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    If thats the case id be happy to buy from his store if its who you guys recommend. Boy o boy the work never ends with this thing :) just finished printing an epic trex shower head which glows in the dark 22 hour print lol. Do you guys recomend the stablizer screw printable upgrade on thingiverse? I wonder if it would be worth it given that a long rob already goes into the top of the case for support on both sides.
     
    #28 darcangeloel, May 17, 2016
  9. darcangeloel

    darcangeloel Member

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    I have an R1 autolevel (Refrubished from robo/ sort of half way fixed and put in the mail :) )
     
    #29 darcangeloel, May 17, 2016
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  10. darcangeloel

    darcangeloel Member

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    Also for the v6 lite will I need to flash firmware? Is that hard to do? I installed octopi without issue.
     
    #30 darcangeloel, May 17, 2016
  11. Geof

    Geof Volunteer Moderator
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    I like printedsolid so much i bought my controller, bunch of filament, e3d kit, simplify 3d, nozzles lol a 2nd printer and in the next month ill be ordering that fancy bcn sigma from.him. its great having a guy thats part of.our forum helping us out with our needs. He wont sell you crap to get a sale, he has his customers best.interests in mind.
     
    #31 Geof, May 17, 2016
  12. Geof

    Geof Volunteer Moderator
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    Ok i have the r1+ so we have some small differences in hardware. Yours has the couplers on the threaded rods and blue leds?
     
    #32 Geof, May 17, 2016
  13. Geof

    Geof Volunteer Moderator
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    If you buy the stud thermistor no firmware work needed.
     
    #33 Geof, May 17, 2016
  14. darcangeloel

    darcangeloel Member

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    So I don't see anything on the threaded rods but yes I do have blue leds. The rods have some long straight rod behind them and they go up into the case into a rubber like insert.
     
    #34 darcangeloel, May 17, 2016
  15. Geof

    Geof Volunteer Moderator
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    On the bed side of the threaded rod there will.either be couplers or nothing. How about a picture ?
     
    #35 Geof, May 17, 2016
  16. darcangeloel

    darcangeloel Member

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    I'm down with thaf. Looks like that brings it to 45 for the kit which is still an awesome deal. Can I edit the highest temp from my discount lcd controller? Would this allow me to print in things like ninjaflex?
     
    #36 darcangeloel, May 17, 2016
  17. Geof

    Geof Volunteer Moderator
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    I'm not sure I understand about the firmware question? The LCD controller wont allow firmware changes, only through arduino program and a computer hooked up via usb.
     
    #37 Geof, May 17, 2016
  18. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    If you use the stud thermistor no flash is required, but at some point you may want to bump max temps.

    Sent from my Xtreme Play Tab v2 using Tapatalk
     
    #38 mark tomlinson, May 17, 2016
  19. darcangeloel

    darcangeloel Member

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    Here is my printer in the garage with my plexiglass enclosure and all the fixings.
     
    #39 darcangeloel, May 17, 2016
  20. darcangeloel

    darcangeloel Member

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    Hmm it keeps saying my pictures are too large they are like 3.8 mb?
     
    #40 darcangeloel, May 17, 2016
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