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Problems trying ABS

Discussion in 'Printing Filament' started by ChiiLissa, Aug 20, 2014.

  1. ChiiLissa

    ChiiLissa New Member

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    I'm having issues with the ABS cooling too fast and sliding everywhere on the heat bed. I have the extruder at 225, and the bed at 75 degrees, as per MatterControls' preset for ABS. I am using a gluestick on the heat bed which has worked amazing for PLA but the ABS after a few layers will push whats done out of the way and start printing in the wrong places. Does anyone have any tips or tricks to help this?
     
  2. Paul Yeh

    Paul Yeh Active Member

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    You may need to increase the hotend temp to around 235C and heated bed temp to 80C or higher.
     
  3. Mike Kelly

    Mike Kelly Volunteer

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    I prefer hairspray or ABS slurry for ABS. Also try printing a bit hotter on both nozzle and bed as Paul Yeh mentioned
     
  4. SteveC

    SteveC Well-Known Member

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    I print ABS with Aquanet hairspray and the bed at 112C .
     
  5. Doug1

    Doug1 New Member

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    I have given up on ABS for a number of reasons, sticking to the bed was one of the main ones(warping was the other). I ended up having to use blue painters tape myself to ever get any ABS to stick. But then I had problems with the tape sticking to the print.
     
  6. SteveC

    SteveC Well-Known Member

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    I agree on the warping. I have to be very careful with the bed and chamber temperature. My chamber is basically some crude sheetmetal blocking much of the printer's front and rear airflow. Also you need avoid solid or high percentage infill especially on the lower layers and keep the shell layers to a minimum. Use a brim and Micky Mouse ears on problem corners. I also tend to chamfer the bed contact surface.

    Your sticking problem I don't get. Like I mentioned above I have no problem with Aquanet on a clean hot bed, and this is over three different sources of ABS. I have never used any painter's tape. It might be a problem with your model shape and infill at the bed contact.

    I only use ABS for parts that are exposed to higher temps and my son uses it because he likes the look of ABS.
     
  7. Invertmast

    Invertmast Active Member

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    My best success with warping AND bed sticking has been Aqua Net and NO heated bed.. Parts that I could never print before because of warping causing them to pop off has mostly been eliminated.
     
  8. SteveC

    SteveC Well-Known Member

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    Wow - really, no heated bed and ABS? I never tried it. I always thought the filament would pop off the bed as it was laid down, cooled and contracted. Is Aquanet really that magical:)?
     
  9. Invertmast

    Invertmast Active Member

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    Yep, no heated bed. Small corners and parts still pop off, but my larger parts (6"square roughly) stay stuck down. The bigger problem is with no heated bed, the layers now separate about 1 1/2" off the bed instead of 3/4" with a heated bed. All the problems of ABS as still there, they are just delayed without the use of the heated bed.
    Which is really weird because everything in the net says the heated bed is supposed to do the complete opposite.
     
  10. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
    Staff Member

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    I don't use ABS often any longer, but I have done large models with it (see this: http://forums.robo3dprinter.com/index.php?threads/fallout-nv-weapon.3068/). At best, it still wants to do some minor warp and curl. The 'mouse ears' approach helps. For that project I wanted it to do that and just worked it into the model. However there are going to be lots of applications where even a little warp or curl is too much.

    Frankly, with things like the carbon fiber, brozefill, the wood and concrete fialments (all at roughly PLA temps and no real warp) and nylon (which had a wee bit of curl, but had to be printed hot) I just don't need to print ABS often. I would not hesitate to use it for a smaller part or one that was more dense, but not for anything large and/or flat.
     
  11. Mikethinks

    Mikethinks Active Member

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    Try playing with lower and higher infill to see what works best for you. Some people say high infill causes more internal cooling/stress, others say too little infill lets the outer shell separate more. Its been hit an miss for me, sometimes perfect, sometimes less so.
     

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