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Unanswered R1+ Bed Not Heating

Discussion in 'Troubleshooting' started by Erin-Ellen Winfree, Nov 2, 2018.

  1. Erin-Ellen Winfree

    Erin-Ellen Winfree New Member

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  2. WheresWaldo

    WheresWaldo Volunteer ( ͠° ͟ʖ ͡°)
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  3. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    If you just replace the RAMPS stick with a RAMPS 1.4 and use the thread @Geof created that shows you how to do that :)


    If you are replacing the set (the Arduino too) then an all-in-one board like Waldo suggested is better.
    I like the cheap parts price for the arduino/ramps and don't need any more horse power for the printer :)
     
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  4. Erin-Ellen Winfree

    Erin-Ellen Winfree New Member

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    Ok, so I think I will go with a kit. However, we rtpivatyp print with the bed temp at 70° and I don't want whatever board I get to burn out with the heated bed. I know you're supposed to be able to print pla on a non heated bed, but I've never had luck getting the prints to stick that way (even using glue sticks or painters tape)
     
  5. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    Probably just needs to fine tune the Z offset then. If it doesn't press down the first layer enough you will get adhesion problems.

    Either way bed heat on PLA is not a sin :)
     
  6. Erin-Ellen Winfree

    Erin-Ellen Winfree New Member

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    What kit of would you recommend then? I noticed this one said it's only good for bed temps up to 50°.
     
  7. WheresWaldo

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  8. WheresWaldo

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    Geof and mark tomlinson like this.
  9. Erin-Ellen Winfree

    Erin-Ellen Winfree New Member

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    So before I bought anything I decided to strip it down a bit and look for this telltale damage that I've read about. It is definitely a melted positive on the 11 amp terminal. Could I get advice on adding some external mofset controllers?

    Namely, should I do it? How does one go about doing it? And possibly point me to the type of controller to buy on Amazon? I'm not afraid to add components and I want to do what is best for long term printer usage/maintenance, but I don't want to muck about with things I don't fully understand.

    Also, when I do order a replacement kit for the Arduino and RAMPS, will I basically be just wiring it up just like this and then flashing Marlin to the new board or should I go through the other thread that was made with instructions on replacing the stock RAMPS with a generic one?

    Sorry for the long and pesky post, but I like to be thorough when fixing things.
     
  10. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    I'll let someone who uses one comment, but as for HOW you let the RAMPS output control the input to the switch (the MOSFET) and then let the MOSFET switch (it's output) drive the heated bed. That means all of the current to power the bed comes through the MOSFET and not the RAMPS

    This link doesn't ADDRESS A ramps SPECIFICALLY, but it is the same as long as you are landing on the heated bed output of the RAMPS with the MOSFET input/control.

    https://3dprint.wiki/reprap/electronics/heatbed_mosfet
     
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  11. Erin-Ellen Winfree

    Erin-Ellen Winfree New Member

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    Well, we have a kit coming tomorrow with the whole setup and the LCD and all. We also ordered a MOSFET controller for the heated bed. I'll put everything together the same as I take it apart, flash Marlin back and see what I've got after that.
     
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  12. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    Maybe even do a thread with pictures :)
     
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  13. Erin-Ellen Winfree

    Erin-Ellen Winfree New Member

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    Disaster!

    I am documenting everything for a thread, but I made some sort of mistake. I'll upload a few pictures to see if you guys can tell me what I did to release the magic smoke from my new arduino.

    Fried Board.jpg Setup.jpg
     
  14. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    Something overloaded the 5v power supply on the Arduino Mega (NCP1117ST50T3G)
    Rated at 1 amp so perhaps you got some wires crossed ? Something wanted a lot more than 1amp on the 5v line would be my guess.

    I don't see anything obvious at a glance.

    It is possible that it just up and died coincidentally, but I'd want to verify things before assuming that :)
     
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  15. Erin-Ellen Winfree

    Erin-Ellen Winfree New Member

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    I still have my original arduino from before the change, but I'm gun shy to install it and switch it on. My wiring is slightly different than the picture shows, but only so I could place the External MOSFET controller in a different spot. Basically I just lengthened wires.

    Am I right in assuming that there are three usable positive and three usable negative terminals on the power supply? I did use two new wires running from there.
     
  16. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    Not certain on the stock supply if there are two or three output terminal sets. There are at least two for sure (because one went to each set of RAMPS input power terminals). I'd look, but I do not have one handy to look at right now.

    You can run in parallel with either of the existing wire sets that is in the power supply however.
     
  17. Erin-Ellen Winfree

    Erin-Ellen Winfree New Member

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    The stock power supply originally had two positive and two negative wires coming off of it. There were also open screws, one next to positive and one next to negative. I used all three with my redo. I don't think that is the problem I had and again, I'm scared to retry anything without knowing my error for sure.
     
  18. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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  19. Erin-Ellen Winfree

    Erin-Ellen Winfree New Member

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    That looks exactly like my stock unit. Identical.
     
  20. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    Slightly larger wattage since the stock is 30 amp, this is 33 amps.
    Should be same style/size
     

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