1. Got a question or need help troubleshooting? Post to the troubleshooting forum or Search the forums!

R2 - Dimples I think?

Discussion in 'Troubleshooting' started by Eric Viglotti, Mar 23, 2018.

  1. Eric Viglotti

    Eric Viglotti Member

    Joined:
    Jan 18, 2017
    Messages:
    116
    Likes Received:
    22
    Hello,

    I am using Simplify3D with the stock R2 profile which was working great for awhile. All of a sudden however, I am getting these dimples in many layers and I can't figure out where they are coming from.

    - The blue example is with the stock 1.5 retraction distance and the grey one is with this increased to 4mm retraction which didn't help and might have been worse.
    - This occurred both before and after the move to the RoboOS 2.0 software.
    - This is after a service visit where the whole hot end and circuit board for the extruder was replaced.

    Any thoughts, anyone seen this? I didn't see anything on this page: https://www.simplify3d.com/support/print-quality-troubleshooting/#print-not-sticking-to-the-bed and it doesn't seem like simply increasing the retraction did anything and if anything made it worse.

    Thanks!
     

    Attached Files:

  2. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
    Staff Member

    Joined:
    Feb 21, 2013
    Messages:
    22,627
    Likes Received:
    7,234
  3. Eric Viglotti

    Eric Viglotti Member

    Joined:
    Jan 18, 2017
    Messages:
    116
    Likes Received:
    22
    Thank you so much @mark tomlinson for pointing me to this. I just posted to that thread as this was exactly the hours I had dropped on my R1+ for a different problem. So thank you!

    As to this issue, it may be the same, maybe not, I'm not sure, but it definitely gives me something to start with, so thank you!
     
    mark tomlinson likes this.
  4. Kilrah

    Kilrah Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Apr 18, 2017
    Messages:
    498
    Likes Received:
    332
    This can be casued by filament that has absorbed moisture.
     
  5. Eric Viglotti

    Eric Viglotti Member

    Joined:
    Jan 18, 2017
    Messages:
    116
    Likes Received:
    22
    Shoot, that would be a bummer as that happened on two spools. I live in a dry climate (san diego) and always put the spools back in a ziploc with the silica gel when not using it. Maybe I'll try a brand new spool as well as separately trying the comments from the other thread.

    Thanks.
     
  6. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
    Staff Member

    Joined:
    Feb 21, 2013
    Messages:
    22,627
    Likes Received:
    7,234
    SD is not as wet as we are here in Orlando, yours may not be due to wet filament, but in general @Kilrah is correct -- it can cause that sort of issue
     
  7. drbanks

    drbanks Active Member

    Joined:
    Dec 29, 2017
    Messages:
    141
    Likes Received:
    40
    I was getting outies. Yours look more like innies.
     
  8. Eric Viglotti

    Eric Viglotti Member

    Joined:
    Jan 18, 2017
    Messages:
    116
    Likes Received:
    22
    Correcto. Interestingly I did have a problem with outies on both my R2 and R1+ where my only solution was to "bury" the retraction marks on an edge (which you can't do on a cylinder), so I'm excited to try your solution.

    However, yes, for this thread, this is a problem with innies, so I'm going to play with the new spool idea in case it is moisture.

    Thanks!
     
  9. Eric Viglotti

    Eric Viglotti Member

    Joined:
    Jan 18, 2017
    Messages:
    116
    Likes Received:
    22
    Bummer, I opened a completely brand new, vacuum sealed spool and it still has these dimples (the innies as @drbanks was saying). They aren't always in the same spot, so I don't think they are retraction marks.

    Any other ideas what this might be, should I try hotter hot end temp? Lower? It's 200 right now.

    Thanks.
     
  10. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
    Staff Member

    Joined:
    Feb 21, 2013
    Messages:
    22,627
    Likes Received:
    7,234
    Hotter would make sense. You might start with calibrating the extruder (or at least running the test for it).
    Mark 100mm of filament from a starting point, tell the printer to feed/print 100mm and see how much actually gets eaten :)
     
  11. Eric Viglotti

    Eric Viglotti Member

    Joined:
    Jan 18, 2017
    Messages:
    116
    Likes Received:
    22
    Thanks much, I’ll give that a try.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
     
  12. Eric Viglotti

    Eric Viglotti Member

    Joined:
    Jan 18, 2017
    Messages:
    116
    Likes Received:
    22
    Hello all,

    Just to close the loop on this...I tried virtually everything, brand new spools of PLA, different temperatures, different brands of PLA, etc and nothing worked. I took it into Robo, they couldn't really see exactly what was happening even after replacing a bunch of parts. However, they took my S3D file and put it on another of their printers, a C2, and it did the same exact thing. So that definitely seemed to point towards this being an S3D problem, not a hardware one. But I told them I had tried it in Cura and it did the same thing. Worse, suddenly I started getting this on my R1+ too oddly enough.

    Finally I found the answer...Turns out S3D's default profiles for both the R2, R1+ and most of their printers are set to 2 perimeters. However, all versions of Cura I had been using were set to 3 perimeters via the 1.2mm wall thickness for the 0.4mm nozzle. Turns out my failed Cura prints were because I was accidentally selecting the default Cura 0.2mm layer height profile which defaults to 0.8mm wall thickness (2 perimeters) instead of the ROBO 0.2mm profile in Cura which is 1.2mm wall thickness and thus 3 perimeters.

    So once I changed the S3D profile to 3 outer perimeters, I have been printing fine. It seems really weird that I had to do this to get all of my models to print when they were printing for months just fine with S3D and 2 perimeters, and it's a bit sad as the 2 outer perimeters was the exact reason why S3D was turning out models SO much faster than Cura and now I lose that speed difference, but I'm just happy to be printing normally again.

    Anyone else ever see issues with 2 vs 3 outer perimeters? If not, maybe this can help anyone else who might have such a problem.

    Thanks.
     
    mark tomlinson likes this.
  13. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
    Staff Member

    Joined:
    Feb 21, 2013
    Messages:
    22,627
    Likes Received:
    7,234
    and this is why (fundamentally) 3D printing is still a young tech :)
    Slicing is complicated. The whole process of model, slice, print itself is ... overly complex.

    There are so many variables that loop into that process ... imagine that the nozzle size changes and everything under the covers that much change and that is a SIMPLE change :)

    Glad you sorted it out though. Thanks for following up on that.
     
  14. Geof

    Geof Volunteer Moderator
    Staff Member

    Joined:
    Nov 9, 2015
    Messages:
    6,713
    Likes Received:
    2,320
    if its a job I print over and over (honestly any client job) I save the gcode to my desktop and a flash drive in a folder labeling what the code is (part number or description) then I make notes as to what filament I used and from who. Makes it much easier to recreate plus I dont have the slicer messing with me :D
     
  15. drbanks

    drbanks Active Member

    Joined:
    Dec 29, 2017
    Messages:
    141
    Likes Received:
    40
    I find that number of perimeters can reveal or hide a multitude of problems. I'll usually set mine to at least one more than seems necessary or reasonable because of this. I only use the minimum when I'm either in a hurry or when I have a limited amount of filament (as in printing a filament sample).

    I went through a bout of zits from S3d which ultimately turned out to be S3D's ludicrously high value for infill overlap in its default R2 profile. I could have probably hidden even that if I'd upped the number of perimeters.
     

Share This Page