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R2 received and in production!

Discussion in 'Show and Tell' started by jscottb, Sep 15, 2017.

  1. jscottb

    jscottb Member

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    I have my new R2 and it came in good condition. There was only one small issue... The boxes inside pressed against the X stepper connection and bent a pin on it. It took a mirror, a very bright light and a tiny screwdriver to get it un-bent with sausage fingers. All sorted now though. The test print looked good, and will spend the weekend getting the feel for it and tuning.
     
  2. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    Excellent news (and welcome to the forum).
     
  3. Ed Ferguson

    Ed Ferguson Active Member

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    Congrats - Be sure to post photos of your prints in the Shown n Tell R2 section. I've posted several since getting my printer in June.
     
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  4. jscottb

    jscottb Member

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    My thoughts after a couple of days and a lot of printing... I like it a lot!

    There are things I like less about it, for one the print bed. It seems a bit fiddly some times and is very easily scratched. After the first test print, I used the included scraper to pry the print and that scratched the bed. If you take the bed off, it can be fussy putting back on. I did have two prints that did not stick. One in the supplied blue PLA, with no raft and the bed set to 60c. It came off completely half way though the print. The other was with some Matter Hackers Thrifty Natural (a really good pla btw) I had it rafted and the bed set to 60c again. It started to curl and separated on two side, and would not have made it all the way though, so I stopped it. The part is a large bracket that I made and print quiet a few of on my i3 like clone with the bed at 50c.

    I have since started printing with the bed at 70-75c and am thinking my bed is not getting hot as it thinks it is. I need to find my ir thermometer and take some readings., the calibration for the thermistor could be off.

    Another issue was this: I placed blue painters on the bed and that made the printer go really goofy! The auto leveling did not work over any place with the tape at all. The print head Z move would do around half the distance of the non tape covered areas. I guess the ir sensor they are using is analog and the tape throws the calibration off a bit and later the movement offset as it prints. After the leveling is done and the print starts, the nozzle is @ 2.5mm above the bed. Removing the tape fixed this issue. As a note, I did reboot the printer and try it again with the same results.

    Now, none of this would keep me from buying it again or recommending it to others. 3d printing is hard sometimes and not for everyone, but this printer makes it better. I LOVE the camera!!!

    Some sample prints. Note, the fan holder is a bust for now due to Y clearance and the door, oh well :)

    20170917_123757.jpg
     
  5. Ed Ferguson

    Ed Ferguson Active Member

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    Thanks for sharing.

    Yeah, that metal scraper is a R2 bed killer. I'm going to try a good quality plastic scraper.

    I've never had a print that did not stick to the bed. In fact, most stick too well. Try tweaking your Fine Tune Offset. As it lays down a line I try to budge it with the plastic stylus. When it sticks well, I have found my Z offset.

    Your prints look good. What slicer are you using? I used Cura for 2 weeks, then switched to Simplify 3D. Big improvement in surface quality and overhangs. Plus, the supports are very easy to remove.

    Finally, you'll want to experiment with different filaments and keep a diary of the optimum settings for each brand & type. I've pretty much settled on MakerGeeks PLA for the majority of my prints.
     
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  6. jscottb

    jscottb Member

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    Yeah, I plan to get one from the auto parts store this week :)

    I do think the temp is off on the bed a good bit. I have been resetting the offset ever few prints or when the bed is removed. I always like a good smushed line :) on all my printers, especially the first few layers. My first printer was an older wooden Printrbot simple and I had to print with a very close lvl to keep the stick going along with blue tape and glue sticks. I should have noted, I was only seeing it on larger prints and smaller ones in the bed center seemed ok.

    I still use Cura 15.04 for the most part, though I did buy Simplified 3d a few weeks back. I need to get into it more once I settle down at work some. I have been using Cura for a few years now on my other two printers.

    One more thing I forgot, the "mood lighting" on the printer, thats all it is ;) I see an LED addition in the future.

    If all these little things are my only gripes, then it's a great printer!
     
  7. Seamus

    Seamus Member

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    So far as the scraper and bed-gouging issue are concerned:
    I use a painter's tool, instead of a regular paint-scraper/spatula, and find that it works great.
    It's got a thicker, more rigid blade than most of those scrapers, but it has a pronounced bevel at the end.

    Instead of scraping the print free, hold the blade with the bevel facing downwards, towards the bed, so that the smooth side of the blade is facing up. Place the blade at the interface between the printbed and the part, press lightly inwards to give it a bit of grip on the part, and lever the handle downward towards the printbed. The bevel hits the bed first, the blade lifts the edge of the print free, and the rest follows. It's even easier if you have a raft, as you can use a bit more inward pressure for more "bite", without worrying about the finish of your model. Only in the case of relatively large prints have I had to follow up with sliding the blade under the print to prize the rest free, and only a couple of times have I had to repeat the push-and-pry action in multiple places on the same model.
    I've never had to chop or hack at anything, and my printbed is more-or-less free of nicks, gouges, etc.

    All of this for PLA on a "dry" printbed with no helpers on it (no tape, glue, juice, etc). Your mileage may vary.

    painters_tool.jpeg
     
  8. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    That is exactly the tool we use on all of our printers (even the DLP).
     
  9. jscottb

    jscottb Member

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    I decided to use the power of the internets and my printers... I found this one on Thingiverse https://www.thingiverse.com/make:383593 and did a plastic remove in the design. I will see how it works out.
     
  10. jscottb

    jscottb Member

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    Well, I have finally printed a Benchy. Not prefect but not too bad.

    I did do some temp test and it's off around 14 degrees +/- 2 deg. I measured with my meter and an ir reader. Both were within 2 degs of each other. I know now so I'm good with that.

    [​IMG][​IMG][​IMG][​IMG]

    Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk
     
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  11. jscottb

    jscottb Member

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    Oh, the temperature test was on the bed.

    Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk
     
  12. jscottb

    jscottb Member

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    Forgot a pic.[​IMG]

    Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk
     
  13. OutsourcedGuru

    OutsourcedGuru Active Member

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    On the bed temperature, I'm guessing that Marlin has a temperature offset setting in the M301-M304 area and M305, followed by an M500 to save.

    The guys-who-know-more here could help you on the formatting but I'd guess a good start would be to run these to see what the current settings are:
    M304 H0
    M305 P0
     
  14. WheresWaldo

    WheresWaldo Volunteer ( ͠° ͟ʖ ͡°)
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    Marlin doesn't support M305, what exactly were you trying to do with it?
    M304 H? is only supported in the RepRap Pro version of Marlin, which is all but dead.

    The M304 command is for setting Bed PID values and not actually an offset, you would use it like this. Execute a command to autotune Bed PID:
    1. M303 E-1 C8 S60 - this will set bed temp at 60°C for 8 cycles, the result will be expressed as kP, kI and kD values.
    2. When you get the results you can insert them into memory with M304 Pnnn Innn Dnnn ; replace the nnnn with the number you got.
    3. You can then save them permanently by issuing a M500
     
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  15. WheresWaldo

    WheresWaldo Volunteer ( ͠° ͟ʖ ͡°)
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    If you are talking about the hotend, you can do a similar thing except that hotends use M301 and you specify which hotend you want your PID values to apply to using the H? parameter.

    So to fine tune you hotend
    1. M303 E0 C8 S225 - this would set the hotend to 225°C for 8 cycles, the results are expressed as kP, kI, and kD
    2. Insert them into M301 H1 Pnnn Innn Dnnn - replace the nnnn with the number from the auto tuning, Note that you test Extruder 0 but apply your values to Hotend 1.
    3. You can then save the values permanently using the M500 command.
     
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  16. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    Any temp you read with an IP or other temp probe will never be perfect on the printers because you can't get that probe where the thermistor is located (not really). So it will always vary somewhat.
     
  17. Geof

    Geof Volunteer Moderator
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    and

    Should be a sticky :D
     
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  18. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    I created a new thread, feel free to sticky it :)
     
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  19. Geof

    Geof Volunteer Moderator
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    stickified
     
  20. OutsourcedGuru

    OutsourcedGuru Active Member

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    Alright, so one doesn't tweak the existing numbers... one exercises the autotune version, writes them down, sets those values with M304 and saves them. Is this what @jscottb should do or try to RMA the print bed?
     

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