1. Got a question or need help troubleshooting? Post to the troubleshooting forum or Search the forums!

Replacement for Build Plate

Discussion in 'Mods and Upgrades' started by SnipesyMcGee, Jan 27, 2017.

  1. SnipesyMcGee

    SnipesyMcGee New Member

    Joined:
    Aug 31, 2015
    Messages:
    11
    Likes Received:
    0
    Since Robo doesn't look like they are ever going to get the glass beds in stock for people out of warranty to order, I was wondering if anyone had successfully used the GeckoTek Build plate/Magnetic Base combo? Any info would be greatly appreciated as my bed has been shattered for a few months.
     
  2. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
    Staff Member

    Joined:
    Feb 21, 2013
    Messages:
    21,722
    Likes Received:
    7,085
    You can replace the glass bed with a custom cut sheet of glass or aluminum (someone documented a project for the aluminum conversion in the projects sub-forum).

    I suspect with the new printers out that they are going to be slow (if ever) to restock those beds.
    Obviously I speak for me and not for them :)
     
  3. SnipesyMcGee

    SnipesyMcGee New Member

    Joined:
    Aug 31, 2015
    Messages:
    11
    Likes Received:
    0
    I had read through some of the replacement homemade beds that people are making. I have been using a piece of glass cut to the bed dimensions to put over my bed since it was broke in the middle and can kinda still be used. But, this isn't a real good solution. The aluminum bed thread peaked my interest. But, with his trouble with the heaters; I was looking for beds that were already made for the Robo which is why i was asking about the GeckoTek bed over the stock replacement bed/homemade beds.
     
  4. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
    Staff Member

    Joined:
    Feb 21, 2013
    Messages:
    21,722
    Likes Received:
    7,085
    The Robo has a custom bed size so nobody makes them that size exactly (other than Robo).
    You can email them and see if they are going to get more in stock.
     
  5. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
    Staff Member

    Joined:
    Feb 21, 2013
    Messages:
    21,722
    Likes Received:
    7,085
    I don't know of anyone who has used the combination you are asking about, but if there is they can certainly chime in :)
     
  6. Rigmarol

    Rigmarol Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    May 14, 2016
    Messages:
    544
    Likes Received:
    280
    Info on alternatives are always welcome!
    I've seen (read) where there were no beds available in stock but a phone call got one sent out. Give it a try.
     
    mark tomlinson and Geof like this.
  7. JoshYourITGuy

    JoshYourITGuy Active Member

    Joined:
    May 27, 2015
    Messages:
    131
    Likes Received:
    33
    I just put a GeckoTek bed and plate on mine after chipping the 2nd glass bed (PolyMax PLA sticks too well....)

    Install on a stock RoBo would probably be easier than my clone, the Y-axis ends with the magnets did not line up perfectly, so I had to modify them a bit.

    They warn you that the RoBo has limited power, so the heater takes a long time to get up to temp, supposedly they will offer a 24V upgrade kit soon. I have a feeling I can just wire a 24V power supply to the bed via an SCR on the RAMPS.

    The plate system is pretty neat, I like that I can flex the plate to pop the print off, no scraper needed.
    The only modification I needed to do was set S3D to print the brim (purge) to a few layers tall so it pops off too, the first one stuck too well and my fingernail took damage.

    MicroCenter locally carries the replacement plates for $15 each, so if I do mess one up, I am only out $15 versus the $60 plus I was paying for replacement glass.
     
  8. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
    Staff Member

    Joined:
    Feb 21, 2013
    Messages:
    21,722
    Likes Received:
    7,085
    Totally doable.
     
  9. JoshYourITGuy

    JoshYourITGuy Active Member

    Joined:
    May 27, 2015
    Messages:
    131
    Likes Received:
    33
    I cant tell what type of hot plate is under the cork on this thing, looks like a typical PCB, but arent most PCB style plates set up to be either 12V or 24V not both? (Thought you had to solder the wire on the correct pad for each voltage)

    Is there a way to test that? (Besides the "smoke test")
     
  10. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
    Staff Member

    Joined:
    Feb 21, 2013
    Messages:
    21,722
    Likes Received:
    7,085
    Most are workable at 12/24v as you mentioned.
    Read the polarity of the supply with a meter first if you think it matters and use the same :)
    I do not think it matters.

    If you are really concerned just get a 24v rated pad and replace it -- it will be better regardless. Ping @Mike Kelly and see if he knows about the stock one.
     
  11. JoshYourITGuy

    JoshYourITGuy Active Member

    Joined:
    May 27, 2015
    Messages:
    131
    Likes Received:
    33
    Polarity wont matter as it is a resistive load, but I know some beds have 3 terminals. (1 + 2 for 12V, 2 + 3 for 24V)
    This one came glued to the GeckoTek system and is covered in cork, so I cant tell exactly what it is.
    I have contacted GeckoTek for info, as I truly believe their upgrade kit is just an SCR and a power brick.
    But yeah, if I do smoke it, I can always peel the glue off and grab a 24V or 120V rated pad.
     
    mark tomlinson likes this.
  12. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
    Staff Member

    Joined:
    Feb 21, 2013
    Messages:
    21,722
    Likes Received:
    7,085
    When we add the one for BAAB (BigAssedAluminumBed) we are converting it was going to be a 120ac too :)
     
    JoshYourITGuy likes this.
  13. Case Atchison

    Case Atchison New Member

    Joined:
    Feb 15, 2019
    Messages:
    1
    Likes Received:
    0
    Hi Mark. I see your name on most anything Robo3D. Do you know of the best Build plate replacement for my Robo r1+? I tried plate glass from Home Depot and it broke after my first print. It was a heat related break. I would really just like to buy one I can plug in but i'm savvy enough to make one but need to know what parts to buy and where?
     
  14. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
    Staff Member

    Joined:
    Feb 21, 2013
    Messages:
    21,722
    Likes Received:
    7,085
    Well, usually plate or float glass (non-tempered) works fine if you put it on top on the existing build plate with binder clips or something similar. If it is breaking then you can switch to borosilicate (pyrex) but that is harder to come by although you can find it online and have it cut to your specs.

    Ultimately the best build plate is not glass at all, but aluminum. Use a 1/8" thick or 3mm thick aluminum plate (pretty much any kind of aluminum alloy is fine). You will need to replace the heater as well if you go that route,
     
  15. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
    Staff Member

    Joined:
    Feb 21, 2013
    Messages:
    21,722
    Likes Received:
    7,085
    Well, you could use the stock heater, but you will want to replace it with a higher wattage one (which means a larger power supply OR use an A/C powered heater and a relay to drive it from the RAMPS <-- best choice).

    A/C heaters will heat up ... really fast. Doesn't load up the power supply since it doesn't go through it (just wire it directly from the power switch or A/C input to the power supply, through the relay controlled by the RAMPS).
     
  16. BrooklynBay

    BrooklynBay Active Member

    Joined:
    Apr 7, 2018
    Messages:
    243
    Likes Received:
    29
    The glass door on a lot of toaster ovens is 10" x 15" which fits perfectly over your existing glass bed. I have two of these glass doors. One is a spare, and the other has been in use for over a year. The original glass bed has a chip in the middle, and a small piece missing on the outer corner. Toaster oven glass doors appear to be much tougher than the bed which comes with the printer. I use a putty which is similar to Funtak to keep the glass in place without binding clips or tape.
     

Share This Page