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seeing stringing/standing on ABS parts

Discussion in 'Printing Filament' started by Mattchu, Dec 1, 2013.

  1. Mattchu

    Mattchu Member

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    So I did a test cube for ABS, and it came out very nice. I then decided I want to make not one, but two of the Cute Octopi, because I had friends who wanted one and I didn't feel like sitting there printing each one out individually.

    Here is the result!

    IMG_20131129_152800.jpg

    IMG_20131129_152806.jpg

    Stranding abounded! after a laughing at it, I took them off and cleaned them up as best I wanted to with my hands.

    IMG_20131129_223849.jpg

    IMG_20131129_223938.jpg



    This happened each time I tried to print the octopi side by side, changing temperature and removing the retract. I do think part of the problem is temperature, as 4 of them did crack a little, with minor warping at the base.

    I did a test with a single Octopi. Here's the results.

    IMG_20131201_093534.jpg

    He doesn't look bad. some warping at the feet, and he's definitely smoother than he looks. However, you'll notice that there seems to be something going on around that waving tentacle of his, a rotate reveals:

    IMG_20131201_093627.jpg

    even though it was close to the main body, and only one octopus. there was still stranding/stringing from the tentacle to the main body.

    Anyone have any suggestions for eliminating or minimizing this? PLA never gave me this problem to such an extent.
     
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  2. -PC

    -PC Member

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    what is you temperature setup for both bed and struder, printing speed, etc ????
     
  3. Mattchu

    Mattchu Member

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    Temp for bed was 65-70. I was having issues gaining heat in the bed early, tried to a fix, seems to work now (we'll see if time tells). I'm slowly bumping it up as I print now.

    The struder temp was 210. I know it's "low" but it seems to be working well. I'll try pushing it up higher though again.

    printer speeds are as follows:
    Perimeter :30
    small perim: 25
    ext. perim: 60%
    infill : 35
    solid infill: 30
    T. Solid infill: 30
    support material: 30
    Bridges: 30
    Gap Fill: 30
    Rapid travel is at :100
     
  4. -PC

    -PC Member

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    this is one of my basic setups setup:
     

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  5. Mattchu

    Mattchu Member

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    you've printed multiple ABS parts at once before?
     
  6. -PC

    -PC Member

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    Yes, I already have printed 4 spools of ABS and 2 of PLA. I havent done more because my printer hot end is "out of commission". here some examples

    2013-10-09 23.23.05.jpg 2013-11-18 19.23.10.jpg 2013-10-31 21.43.36.jpg 2013-11-01 09.29.43.jpg 2013-11-02 12.13.51.jpg 2013-11-02 12.14.20.jpg 2013-11-02 12.14.33.jpg
     
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  7. Mattchu

    Mattchu Member

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    very nice! I need more colors. and Lameness on the hot end being outta commission.
     
  8. Printed Solid

    Printed Solid Volunteer Admin
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    I've never seen that much stringing with ABS. My first thought was also that you are running too hot. If you're running at 210, that's not too hot. I have read of people using the Afinia printer actually improving stringing by printing at higher temperatures. So, it might be worth a shot.

    If you're brave, slic3r does contain settings to print multiple objects one at a time. You have to put in a max height so that the x-rods don't hit the part and a 'keep away zone' so the hot end assembly doesn't hit any previously printed parts. Seems like if you placed objects far enough apart in the y, you may be able to build tall objects one at a time based on the way the table moves.
     
  9. Mattchu

    Mattchu Member

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    I'll look into that. the problem is that it is still not....efficient. Which chews on the back of my mind. I think the issue is that without a heated chamber, as the head moves further up away from the bed it gets colder, and more likely to string as it rapid positions. I made a Batarang last night (because I'm a nerd), and there wasn't a single string that I could see. However the part did end up warping until it popped itself off the bed :(
     
  10. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    The warping can be reduced by running the bed hotter. You are correct though, the heated chamber is a design limitation on this printer. You can worm around it for most things.
     
  11. Melody Bliss

    Melody Bliss New Member

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    I've got a design in mind (and had the local hardware store cut some plexiglass) for an enclosure. It will not be fully airtight but should be enclosed enough to keep the print area heated.

    One of the problems is the moving bed (i.e. Y axis) since it goes beyond the edges of the printer. My idea is to run plexiglass along the straight area in the front and back and use felt (or some other materials) along the bends so that it sits against the plastic hood as much as possible. Will this work? I have no idea but it's a first crack at creating something. The nice thing is it'll be a flexible design and the bottom edge can be lifted so that it doesn't hit the bed.

    Ultimately I may have to go to some enclosed box and get rid of the current Robo3D cover all together .
     
  12. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    I'd also remote the RAMPS electronics outside the heated box.
     
  13. Mattchu

    Mattchu Member

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    yeah I've been thinking about that one the most, Mark. It's been bugging me a lot lol.

    As for the enclosure, I'd make it large enough to handle bed movement entirely. I saw a cool design for the Solidoodle 3 someone did using one of my favorite tools: magnets.
     
  14. Melody Bliss

    Melody Bliss New Member

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    I love magnets. My husband laughs at me but I use magnets on a routine basis. I've got hundreds if neodymium ones up to 30#


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
     
  15. Mattchu

    Mattchu Member

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    you'll love this then: when I was in my 2nd year as an apprentice I got a ton of those neodymium magnets, and press fit them into holes I had reamed in an aluminum block. I then welded a cap over it, then milled the weld beads off, so it looked like an ordinary block of aluminum. The suits on the committee who decides if I "advance" or not just about lost their minds when they saw I had figured out how to make an "aluminum magnet." My leadman was doing his best not to laugh as they were getting ready to just graduate me right there, and I'm freaking out because my little prank just went too far.
     
  16. Mike Kelly

    Mike Kelly Volunteer

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    Is this what you had in mind?

    [​IMG]
     
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  17. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    I like that :)
     
  18. BillyTheKid

    BillyTheKid New Member

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    well done the octopus looks great. A problem im having is all the filament sticks to part where it comes out . whenever my dad and i want to print something we cant! Even when the filament comes out another part dosent and sticks to the whole thing. i need help
     

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