Simplify 3D can't home the Z-axis, might be a switch issue

After I started using Simplify 3D, I started understanding 3D printers more, as many issues occurred during the process

One of the issues I couldn't solve is Z-homing, it seems the left switch is either ignored or doesn't work, Simplify 3D stops when the right switch is relaxed, by this time the left switch is 1.2mm's high

I can fix this issue by moving the head to 1.2mm and manually resetting the Z axis at that point or by setting a G-code z-offset of 1.15mm, the prints are satisfactory

Either the switch has issues, or I'm missing something obvious, should I maybe manually calibrate the nuts on the z-axis to equalize the left/right height? (I mean turn the nuts upwards so the 1.2mm height issue disappears)

(Also one other small questions, everyone talks about updated firmware's, however I see no firmware guides, can anyone point me to a post/article about firmwares and upgrades?)

Thanks in Advance

 

I get your point, I'm also unaware how much of the stuff software calculates itself, however there was also a min/average/max setting for the home-z, I didn't try it, I hope they activate together, otherwise I have a defective one, it would also be easy to test them however it's a bit risky as when they are not pressed, the cables and the unit start rolling into the rod

What does auto-bed levelling do?

I guess I should power the machine up and, traverse the bed a bit, and see if there is actually an imbalance and correct it
(I also sent a -Z trigger manually below the limit once, it was a huge mistake, the left switch/unit started rolling into the rod, however the imbalance was present before this event too, as I remember, at the same amount)

 

I also wonder whether this z-axis offsets (for the auto bed levelling) are on the software level or the hardware level, the method you described sounds simple and logical
I would assume it's on the hardware level since you stated it's R1-only

In that case, I guess, If I use Simplify 3D, should i go back to MatterControl and calibrate-Z once in a while?

It would be more logical if it was on the software level, because it seems the idea could apply to any device (I probably should research 3D-printer programming logic, commands, g-code and how things work. I'm basing my actions on assumptions like a dufus myself too

I would appreciate any advice on this matter and using Simplify 3D in general, I decided to halt thing for a while, until I learn more and not repeat any common mistakes

 

Your ball-print post sold me the software
I also had a lot of issues with support structures before Simplify 3D, and even with the leveling issues, the incomplete print had really impressive support structures (windows restarted during the print, the tail of the tiger wasn't latched to the surface anyway, so it was a good coincidence)

Anyway, I hope someone aids me soon, my new filaments are arriving tomorrow, can't wait to start printing again

 

I checked the rod balance, they seem pretty balanced, the issue seems pretty natural, there is no way the both switches could activate at the same time, as the nozzle is not on the same level with the switches, one of them will always go first

So it's either manual calibration (works well) or switch/firmware modification

Is there any way to fix this issue by leaving the cable configuration alone? (If the switches are connected to one port, either in series or parallel, I guess not, but if they are 2 seperate switches, it may be possible, haven't checked the internals yet)

 

Each switch works individually in the stock wiring setup from what i can tell. I had a similar problem in that one switch wouldnt activate and it was throwing the offset way off. It endes up being a broken wire in the heatshrink tubing on one of the Z switches.

 

Thanks for the reply, So are you saying that any of the switches should stop the homing (not both of them together), my switch or wiring is faulty, and I should check the connections? (this sounds logical)

Is there any easy way to verify the switch functionality, I would appreciate a nudge in this direction, a datasheet, or better yet, an online tutorial or a simple explanation would be great

 

You can use the M119 command in repetiwe or matter control and that will tell you what the status of your switches are. That will at least tell you if the switches are working properly.

 

That's a great idea thanks, will do that

 

Best way to test a switch is with a multimeter testing for conductivity (resistance). M119 is good as well but would mistake a wire break for a switch failure.

 

by looking at the M119 data, it seems both switches needs to be activated for the z-switch flag to trigger

I've also hoped using the MatterControl starting G-Code would somehow trigger the firmware to calculate the z-offsets itself, however, although the machine reports the calculations, I think the software needs to handle them, so it's pretty much pointless using that G-code in Simplify3D

My bed seems to be unleveled from left to right too, so at large prints, this prevents the nozzle from extruding, it's impossible to print anything large with Simplify3D, with MatterControl, I can't dare do it, it fails at the support structures and converts the print into an ABS blob

I'm going to print 0,8mm-1,1mm disk spacers and put them in between the magnets to manually level the bed, does it sound like a good idea?

 

the offset and auto-level is the same for cura. Define a Z offset in the gcode and run the marlin G29