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Suggested S3D PETG Settings?

Discussion in 'Filament' started by drbanks, May 2, 2018.

  1. drbanks

    drbanks Active Member

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    So, I've done my first two prints with PETG. I've already learned a few things.

    I went in increasing the Z Offset, raising the temps (extruder, bed), turning the fan down and have gotten successful(-ish) prints.

    What seems to be the case is that I need more top layers because with what I was using, I got a lot of pillows and zits on the top surface corresponding to the infill gaps. Also stringing, even though I was using a pretty low (220C) extrusion temperature.

    Using samples of semi-transparent rigid.ink filament, the prints themselves seem mostly sound, but look like hell.

    I do like the fact that while I get decent first layer adhesion, unlike PLA, after I remove the item from the bed, I don't have to walk around the room to find it.

    In any case, if anyone has tips, pointers and/or example settings for S3D, it'd be much appreciated.

    [​IMG]
     
  2. WheresWaldo

    WheresWaldo Volunteer ( ͠° ͟ʖ ͡°)
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    PETG is exactly opposite most other filaments when it comes to stringing, PETG needs to flow as hot as possible while not becoming completely liquid or burning.

    Try for at least 1 mm top layer. If the infill is sparse you may need a thicker top layer.
     
  3. drbanks

    drbanks Active Member

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    Good to know. With some of the things I've been trying to print, 1mm on top and 1mm on bottom = no infill at all. I do s'pose I can go a little thinner on the bottom.

    Normally, not an issue; if it means throwing on more top/bottom layers, no big, but when I'm working with a 10m sample, I do tend to cut corners so I can get two sample prints rather than one.
     
  4. WheresWaldo

    WheresWaldo Volunteer ( ͠° ͟ʖ ͡°)
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    The temp thing always throws people off, every other filament is extrude as cold as possible while preserving intra-layer adhesion, PETG is just the opposite.

    I routinely print with 20% or so infill and that leaves large gaps, so in general I try to shoot for 1.5 mm or close on the top layer. the bottom which is 100% supported by the bed usually is 1 mm or less. Almost always print with three perimeters.
     
  5. drbanks

    drbanks Active Member

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    Cranked it up from 220C to 240C, and while I was at it, and for no good reason, upped the bed temperature for the first 5 layers to 75C.

    Looks LOTS better, except for the part about it ripping a big hole out of my BuildTak when I tried to remove it.

    Fortunately, I have a spare.
     
  6. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    Both PET and PETG tend to be pretty aggressive at staying put on the bed. You may want to tweak it for a bit less adhesion or just use a RAFT. Some nylons are that way too. I have had them be aggressive on bare glass, I would not want to try them on something like BuildTak :)
     
  7. WheresWaldo

    WheresWaldo Volunteer ( ͠° ͟ʖ ͡°)
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    Or use a "release agent" I use hair spray on PEI or BuildTak when printing PETT or PETG that gives a small layer of a less sticky substance that will help PET filaments release easier from the bed.
     
    mark tomlinson likes this.
  8. drbanks

    drbanks Active Member

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    The first couple of PETG prints, I used hairspray. The third one, I forgot and ended up tearing my build tak. The release for the first two was amazingly easy. The third...

    Well, I've had this magnetic replacement build tak bed laying around, waiting for an excuse to get around to installing it. I think I just stumbled upon an excuse.
     
    Geof likes this.

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