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Taulman 910 on the Robo R2

Discussion in 'Filament' started by Geof, Nov 1, 2017.

  1. Geof

    Geof Volunteer Moderator
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    Hello All,
    While printing PLA is fun and fine for many applications the R2 I have recieved is being put through the wringer on projects that just flat out require better materials. This is a print of Taulman 910 (replacement printer parts as the test print).

    Hotend temp : 255
    Bed temp: 55
    Cooling fans- OFF
    Purple glue stick on the PEI to protect it from the taulman sticking too aggressively to it.

    I will try to remember to upload my .FFF when I am near it next for S3D. But basically I took my PLA settings, made a new profile and inserted the above settings ;) nothing crazy
    DNjA2RRW4AEIVkO.jpg

    I will also try to remember to load any other prints I do in this material (if I do more). If you have done them feel free to add photos and your settings below! :D
     
    #1 Geof, Nov 1, 2017
    Last edited by a moderator: Nov 1, 2017
  2. Geof

    Geof Volunteer Moderator
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    Yep, the R2 just easy 910 :)
    20171108_190947.jpg

    Quite impressed with how well the r2 handles it with complex geometries
     
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  3. WheresWaldo

    WheresWaldo Volunteer ( ͠° ͟ʖ ͡°)
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    Hmm, at 250°C my newly opened roll of Alloy 910 bubbles and the outer surface is kind of rough. Can you attach your R2 S3D profile for Alloy 910?

    One more thing. I cant get Alloy 910 to not trigger the Filament out sensor, seems to want to slide off the switch lever every few layers. I temporarily disabled the filament out plugin so I can print with it.

    Have you tried Bridge, or maybe @mark tomlinson?
     
    #3 WheresWaldo, Nov 17, 2017
    Last edited: Nov 17, 2017
  4. Geof

    Geof Volunteer Moderator
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    I am not around my printer but I basically used my PLA profile, cloned it, turned off the fan put the hotend at 255, bed at 55 (glue stick on it) and turned the max speed to 40mm/s.

    Not sure whats up with the runout
     
  5. WheresWaldo

    WheresWaldo Volunteer ( ͠° ͟ʖ ͡°)
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    I dropped my temp to 245 I was set at 50 mm/s maybe I need to slow that down some more. I will try another print shortly.

    I also unchecked all fan controls even though I had layer 1 at 0 fan speed, now that tab is all blank, just in case.
     
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  6. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    I have had no issues with Alloy910 on the C2 other than initially getting some adhesion issues because of no bed heat. I had to fiddle with the first layer and Z offset a bit to get that working reliably. The run-out sensor has not complained at least.
     
  7. WheresWaldo

    WheresWaldo Volunteer ( ͠° ͟ʖ ͡°)
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    Not sure how good the quality control is on the runout sensors based on the feedback from this forum. Hard to come to a consensus when everyone seems to have differing amounts of success.

    Well I need to get some more glue sticks, have to make a trip to Sam's Club later so maybe I'll pick up a package of purple ones. So back to PLA for the rest of the day.
     
  8. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    My opinion is that if mine dies I am :
    1) switching to mechanical switches
    2) adding one to the second filament feed.

    The original style @Ziggy had done were fine and relatively trouble free.
     
  9. WheresWaldo

    WheresWaldo Volunteer ( ͠° ͟ʖ ͡°)
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    Not Optical?
     
  10. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    No, I am going back to the old style arcade like mechanical blade switches he used in his for the original R1 version.
    It works, it is cheap and reliable.
    In the end it just needs to be on/off anyway and I think the optical ones are a bit of over-engineering. There is (barely) just enough room in there for a small blade style switch.
     

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