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Tumbler for non Metal filament?

Discussion in 'General Questions' started by Darren Ortego, Sep 9, 2015.

  1. Darren Ortego

    Darren Ortego New Member

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    Has anyone tried to use a tumbler on non metal filaments, Like PLA or ABS to try and get smooth layer lines Ive looked around online and its kinda been talked about but nothing in detail. Has anyone here tried it and if so would love to see some picture results.
     
    #1 Darren Ortego, Sep 9, 2015
  2. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    No, interesting idea. We have used the tumbler for Brassfil, Bronzefil, Copperfil, Iron and steel.
    Nothing non-metallic really.

    I don't have layer lines to speak of. Not usually :)
     
    #2 mark tomlinson, Sep 9, 2015
  3. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    What would you tumble them with? Polishing grit of some sort or metal hardware (like nuts, bolts, etc)?
     
    #3 mark tomlinson, Sep 9, 2015
  4. Darren Ortego

    Darren Ortego New Member

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    I dont know a whole lot about this, seems ceramic is the going thing and how do you get no layer lines lol :(. I'm making something for a friend and trying to put a paint and clear coat on it but can not get a print to production quality or even close. I have tried acetone but its to inconsistent for me, thought this could be a solution may take some time though.
     
    #4 Darren Ortego, Sep 9, 2015
  5. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    Ceramic beads or the like might work. You would just need to experiment.

    You should be able to get the printer tuned to where you don't have 'lines' that will show through paint. Sure, getting rid of the visible layers in something like PLA is really tough, but a coat of paint should cover that right up.

    If you are getting ribbing that comes through a layer of paint you definitely can tune that puppy up :)

    If it is mostly Z artifacts then the new linear Z axis replacement is a win. There are a lot of less drastic ideas in the Z ribbing thread some of which may help, but the replacement Z rods/drive should make it vanish.

    If is is another axis (X or Y obviously) then bearings or belts (or drive cogs, etc.) need to be looked at.
     
    #5 mark tomlinson, Sep 9, 2015
  6. Darren Ortego

    Darren Ortego New Member

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    Can I post a picture later, I have tons of questions. I been researching and trying to learn I'm printing with mostl ABS as the printer I bought came with 3 2.2kg spools. As for the tumbler I will let you know if it helps.
     
    #6 Darren Ortego, Sep 9, 2015
  7. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    Sure, post a pic. We can always come up with ideas from a picture :)


    (occasionally they are even good ideas)
     
    #7 mark tomlinson, Sep 9, 2015
  8. WheresWaldo

    WheresWaldo Volunteer ( ͠° ͟ʖ ͡°)
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    There is a blog somewhere, where the poster did exactly this with non-metallic filament, I think he used brass and stainless screws and wound up with different types of finishes. It was interesting and I might try it someday.
     
    #8 WheresWaldo, Sep 9, 2015
  9. WheresWaldo

    WheresWaldo Volunteer ( ͠° ͟ʖ ͡°)
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    #9 WheresWaldo, Sep 9, 2015
    mark tomlinson likes this.
  10. Darren Ortego

    Darren Ortego New Member

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    Here is one issue and im sure its a setting just not sure how to do it how do I close the bottom of my prints? and u can see some layer lines in here as well. Thanks for the link Waldo

    [​IMG]
     
    #10 Darren Ortego, Sep 9, 2015
  11. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    I would start by adding more top and bottom layers.
    If you are running everything defaults (0.4 nozzle and default settings for most slicers) then you have a 0.2 layer height and either 2 or 3 of them at the top and bottom

    MATH ALERT:
    0.2 x 3 (best default case)
    -> 0.6mm
    Now, 0.6 mm is not much. Heck 1 mm is not a lot. Try changing that to give yourself at least a 1 mm 'shell' (you might want to sanity check your # of shells--side layers--in your slicer as well).

    Make that 3 top/bottom into a 6 and see if there is an improvement.
     
    #11 mark tomlinson, Sep 9, 2015
  12. Darren Ortego

    Darren Ortego New Member

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    Awesome, I believe your right currently My top is 1.2 and I believe bottom is .6 yes everything is default I'l give this a shot and see how it makes out.
     
    #12 Darren Ortego, Sep 9, 2015
  13. Mike Kelly

    Mike Kelly Volunteer

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    I'd say media blasting with plastic would be quicker and more effective

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
     
    #13 Mike Kelly, Sep 9, 2015
  14. Darren Ortego

    Darren Ortego New Member

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    Yeah, I thought about media blasting I can get a tumbler for much cheaper so thought I would give it a go first. Plus I heard that shapeway uses a vibratory tumbler to finish parts. those look great tho
     
    #14 Darren Ortego, Sep 9, 2015
  15. WheresWaldo

    WheresWaldo Volunteer ( ͠° ͟ʖ ͡°)
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    Shapeways does and they use ceramic bits. Every once in a while there will be a ceramic pellet stuck inside a part from Shapeways.. Besides @Mike Kelly's pictures there was an Indestructibles article that showed off some parts media blasted. If you don't have a media blast cabinet, you can do it outdoors, just bear in mind that your blast media will get all over the place.
     
    #15 WheresWaldo, Sep 9, 2015
    Last edited: Sep 9, 2015
  16. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    Including places you will regret later.

    (just sayin')
     
    #16 mark tomlinson, Sep 9, 2015
  17. Darren Ortego

    Darren Ortego New Member

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    Lol if this don't get the results I want that's the next step. I need to get this printer to Cooperate with me also.
     
    #17 Darren Ortego, Sep 9, 2015
  18. gravityisweak

    gravityisweak Member

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    Ive used spray auto body filler primer to great effect. A few layers of spray, then sand it smooth and add whatever paint you want. The better results you get from your printer, the less layers of primer you will need. Here's a link to what I did with it http://www.instructables.com/id/3D-Printed-Stone-Head/
     
    #18 gravityisweak, Sep 17, 2015
  19. Darren Ortego

    Darren Ortego New Member

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    I actually tried bondo lol (big mess), With primer how did you sand it after to get a nice finish? On a complex shape its really hard to get a even looking part that's the issue im having
     
    #19 Darren Ortego, Sep 17, 2015
  20. gravityisweak

    gravityisweak Member

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    I just used 200 grit sandpaper. I agree that with complex shapes it would be more difficult, but the primer ends up being much easier to sand than wood or plastic, and after it's smooth you could easily spray another color over it. Folding the sandpaper into points and strips would allow you into the grooves, it doesn't take much. Give it a shot. I got the cheap spray on filler primer from harbor freight. No complaints.
     
    #20 gravityisweak, Sep 17, 2015

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