Solved Very Dissapointed

the one thats hanging out way in the air with the orange piece disconnected, gently push it back down. There brass colored nut fits inside of it. You will likely have to wiggle and turn the leadscrew (threaded rod) on that side to get it all to go back togather. This is not uncommon to happen both in shipping and time to time in use.

 

The autoleveling should sort it out if they are close. Otherwise you manually level it.
You do that with the power off by sliding the nozzle/extruder around manually and make sure that it is about one sheet of paper from the bed across the middle. So with it powered on drop the nozzle on one side until it is just touching a sheet of paper (and you can feel a bit of resistance sliding it under) then power down and slide the nozzle to the other side and see if it is the same. If not hold one threaded rod while you manually turn the other to get it to the same height.

Last thing is to check that neither of the Z switches are out of position up against the crossbar and if not you are good. Let autoleveling deal with the rest.

 

A full manual leveling of the entire bed is always better, but that is more involved and requires shimming the bed as well as testing a lot more points. You should be OK with the procedure I described and the autoleveling

 

Michael, are you printing with the supplied Robo blue filament? PLA has a nasty habit of becoming stickier when it is heated. It could be something as simple as adding an oiler, if you can't print an oiler then heat up the extruder and pull the filament out. Take a paper towel and put some canola oil on it, not too much just enough to rub on the filament. Swipe about 12 inches of the filament end and ten feed it back through. Extruder that 12 inches at a higher temp than you might normally. If you are using 205°C as an example, try 225°C. that will season the nozzle. Same theory as seasoning a cast iron skillet. That will help prevent the micro clogging that is typical of PLA filament and its derivatives.

 

The tension is set on the back of the gregs wage (the hinge you pull back on to insert filament). There are 2 screws. To get to the hobbled bolt you remove those 2 screws and you'll see it there. You clean it by using a toothpic, toothbrush, dental pic whatever you have around that can clean debris out from the teeth. If its grinding filament I'd look more into removing what is ground and running new through with newly set sprint tention and a cleaned hobbled bolt then go from there.

 

Simple to clean out a clog, but you need the right tools, a 16 mm open end spanner and a 7 mm socket wrench. Heat up the hotend, use the 16 mm to hold the aluminum block and the 7 mm socket to remove the nozzle. A torch will burn out the excess material inside the nozzle.

I generally no longer clean nozzles. Nozzles are consumables and wear with use. You can buy multi-pack nozzles, cheap from Amazon with Prime shipping, not an endorsement just an example listed below.

5 Pack 0.4 mm brass nozzle

 

Here ya go @WheresWaldo might save ya a few bucks. .53cent each if you order over 5 (who wouldn't lol). I buy 40 at a time.

https://m.fasttech.com/products/1040/10013091/2205004-brass-0-4mm-1-75mm-e3d-v6-extra-nozzle-for-3d

 

Some people like Amazon since it makes Jeff Bezos richer. Ships from US not Hong Kong.

 

A hot enough torch will melt the offending nozzle (ask me how I know...)

 

One way that happens is that the tip of the nozzle is too close to the bed (too much backpressure).
Needs a higher Z offset in that case.

 

Is it just not turning or is it turning but clicking or just not extruding?

 

I'll let someone who uses mattercontrol speak to how it works.
@Geof ? @WheresWaldo ?