What speeds do you use ?

Hi everyone
I just received my Robo3D and I'm discovering it.
My first print, with default settings as in "getting started guide", was ugly, see pic.

It was supposed to have a plane top surface!
I had the feeling moves were too fast for the ABS flow, so I tried with 20 mm/s for all speeds, and it looks better.

Printing is not finished when I write.

So can you tell me which speeds you use on your Robo3D ?
Thanks a lot for any advise.
Denis

 

I started at 30mm/s and got good results at that.

Now I'm printing in the 50-60mm/s range.

 

Thanks Mike, I'll try 30 for the next.
Here is the result

ABS flow was OK, top surface is plane, but I still have a problem : the edges raise (because of retraction?). I saw in this forum I'm not the first, is there a "magic tip" about this ?
Thanks

 

Edge look to be cause by warping... What are you using to stick your prints to the bed? I normally like glue stick but I also use ABS slurry.

 

Also let your print cool before removing, I had a few warp even after I pulled them off the bed.

 

That's THE problem, I don't know how to stick it to the bed.
Are you talking about paper glue stick ?
"ABS slurry" is ABS + acetone, right ? Do you cover your bed with it ?
I already used HP designJet 3D printer, the bed itself is in ABS (you have to change it often), did somebody already try to put a thin ABS or PVC cover on the bed ? Fused ABS will stick to the bed because fusing it too...
I read somebody talking about hair spray, which sort of spray ? Do you use that too ?
Thanks anyway for the help

 

Blue painters tape and hextra hold aquanet hairspray work great. Also vinyl has become a favorite for some as well. Here's a link to that thread http://forums.robo3dprinter.com/index.php?threads/vinyl-decal-on-printbed-awesome.1596/

 

ABS slurry is indeed abs + acetone.

You don't have to cover the bed, just the area of the print. I find a flat edge razor is great for replacing the slurry. You can also reuse the stuff you scrape off for more slurry.

I didn't have good luck with ABS and hairspray, kept warping.

 

It depends on what I am printing. If its PLA I just use elmer's disappearing purple glue stick and put a layer on the bed. If its ABS I use a thin even layer of slurry (I made mine out of carburetor cleaner and ABS scraps) on the bed. I also have a fairly sharp knife or edge ready in order to remove the part (slurry can stick too well sometimes).

 

I just use Uhu glue stick straight on the glass, heated to 70 for PLA, 90 for abs. Works very well. To the point I generally just hit print and walk away. I don't even bother to remove it between prints, just reapply any areas that have come off.

 

Thank you all.
Now I'll do some shopping and test all these solutions...

 

Hello
Before managing the warp problem, I think I have an extruder problem, which was the reason of the first post about extrusion speed.
I watched the extruder :
Manually I can push and extrude ABS. So extruder is not clogged.
Through Repetier I can extrude and it works, but it's not extruded regularly, extrusion speed changes.
When I launch a printing job it starts well but after a few seconds / minutes ABS flow decreases and sometimes stops, or becomes normal again and then re-decreases... I can hear the extruder wheel teeth that scratches filament instead of pushing it.
I think about a temperature problem in the extruder. I put it at 225°.
I tried to raise it but after 235° I get a MAXTEMP error.
Did someone have the same problem ? What do you advise me to do ?
I'm sending this to Robo3D technical support too.
Thanks

 

It might also be a good idea to replace the spool holder if you haven't already (the stock one can put tension on your feed line). There is a good printable one on thingiverse.


As far as the extruder problems... I am having problems with it as well. I was having issues with filament getting "stripped" inside the extruder so I tightened the latch on the filament and it fixed that now the problem is filament backing up inside the extruder assembly. I replaced the hobbed bolt with a recessed one (but I think its in standard and not metric, there is a little play in it) but I still get backup issues on and off. Haven't been able to figure it out reliably yet, so I am just printing at low speeds till I get it working reliably. I am considering getting a channeled idler bearing and seeing if that might somehow help.

I am running PLA at 220 and using an e3d hot end running speeds at 25 flow and feed rate at 80.

 

I have noticed that for some of the more solid prints I don't really have that problem.

For instance with this print: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:84075

The stem comes out pretty easily (I think I got it twice both first tries.)

But the rose (lots of thin walls) I have to watch and clear the back-ups often.

Maybe its a retraction related issue?

 

I had this happen with both heads, it seemed worse with the stock head to me. But I am not bothering to re-swap and test that.

 

Thanks
@mark tomlinson : Which part of the head do you call hobb or hobbed bolt ? Sorry english is not my natural language. Do you mean just to change the 2 bolts ? The springs too ? It is not tight enough ?
@Dr. D : There was no tension in the filament when I did my tries. When I will be able to print nice objects I will print a spool holder.

I hope I will not have to change for a better extruder, my printer is brand new, I hope I can do some prints with the stock one, and Robo3D doesn't sell a printer that can't print anything with whole stock pieces !! I can understand that prints are better with a better extruder, but I'm not searching the best print quality right now, it may come after. Now I just want to print.

 

I am on a full stock printer and printing nicely now. Just takes some practice, and start small. Small pieces you can practice with helps.
I started with shower curtain rings. They are quick and I needed 12 of them so it gave me good practice. Printed small things for my son as well. The stretchlet on thiniverse is a good one to practice with also.
The hobbed bolt is the large bolt that goes straight through the entire head unit. If you look at the center of the largest gear, that is the end of the large hobbed bolt. It has teeth in the middle that bite into the filament to pull it down.

By the way, your English is better than some Americans I know lol. Very good