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X Axis Bearing Upgrade

Discussion in 'Mods and Upgrades' started by WheresWaldo, Dec 5, 2015.

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  1. danzca6

    danzca6 Well-Known Member

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    Very Interesting Mark. So you can just buy the liners. So you could just print the rest or redesign the carriage or y pillow blocks. Very cool for a buck and a half each.
     
    #21 danzca6, Feb 11, 2016
  2. WheresWaldo

    WheresWaldo Volunteer ( ͠° ͟ʖ ͡°)
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    There are issues with plastic bearings, one of the biggest is stiction, requiring more force to start movement than to maintain movement. second is IGUS bearings are designed to work under compression, the pillow block needs to be a very tight fit. Split blocks tend to ovalize the bearings as they compress. But they are a big hit with a small group of users. They essentially work the same way as the bronze bushings, laying down a sub-micron layer that forms a boundary layer between surfaces. They are only rated for axial loads whereas the bronze bearings are useful in both radial and axial loads. The Robo design only places axial loads on the bearings that support the rails.
     
    #22 WheresWaldo, Feb 11, 2016
  3. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    It is cheap enough and easy enough (same sizes are available) that I mentioned if for a future test.
    I am not convinced this is (by any quantitative measure) a better answer than the bronze bearings.
    It would be easy enough to try if I am already tearing one apart for something else.
     
    #23 mark tomlinson, Feb 11, 2016
  4. KTMDirtFace

    KTMDirtFace Well-Known Member

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    Printed out a new carriage for the new bearings. Ran the rod through them on the drill till they were silky smooth.. went to put the rods back in the plastic end holders.. massive binding. Looks like my printed carriage shrunk by about 1mm, so it was having to flex the rods together. Making a new carriage now that i stretched out.

    Not sure how i'm going to get the bearings out of the carriage now. I may end up dremeling/cutting them out.
     
    #24 KTMDirtFace, Feb 18, 2016
  5. danzca6

    danzca6 Well-Known Member

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    I wonder if printing the x axis ends would have them shrink as well to make it all work. ;) Did you use PLA?
     
    #25 danzca6, Feb 18, 2016
  6. KTMDirtFace

    KTMDirtFace Well-Known Member

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    LOL I thought about printing X axis holders..but then i figured the Z would bind lol.

    I did use PLA. and I used a file Waldo gave me for the original carriage that I modified with a larger holes for the bearings. I printed in 100% infil though.

    Since I have the original 3d files it wasn't to bad to cut it and extrude it a bit and I will re-print. I made it 84mm long bearing center hole to bearing center hole instead of 83.. should work now but its a long print i'll find out tomorrow if it works :)


    Here is a picture, so I kinda have to yank the rod over a bit to get it into the plastic end cap hole..then it causes a lot of binding. With both ends on it slides ok in the middle but binds really really bad near the ends.
    [​IMG]

    I think if I print a new carriage with a slightly further apart bearing hole to bearing hole I might end up ok.
     
    #26 KTMDirtFace, Feb 18, 2016
    Last edited: Feb 18, 2016
  7. WheresWaldo

    WheresWaldo Volunteer ( ͠° ͟ʖ ͡°)
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    Yeah that file came from the stuff @Mike Kelly posted on Thingiverse. They are of the original R1. You will need to adjust for plastic shrinkage. PLA is about .25 - .3%
     
    #27 WheresWaldo, Feb 18, 2016
    KTMDirtFace likes this.
  8. KTMDirtFace

    KTMDirtFace Well-Known Member

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    So 83mm (stock) was too short caused binding, 84 too wide lol.
    I have been too busy to fix it but printing a 83.5mm wide hole to hole carriage right now hopefully this does the trick.

    Edit: 83.5 worked out perfect very little resistance now... printing a test cube now. bearings are super quiet. Im getting a weird vibration noise when the Y has the bed move away from me. Other than that seems to be working great. Waldo didn't you post a S3D script or something that just sends the printer running empty all over the place? maybe i'll try that to seat it in see if the vibe goes away.

    Edit Again: After printing 2 things out, the vibration/noise is gone. Good mod, working great!
     
    #28 KTMDirtFace, Feb 24, 2016
    Last edited: Feb 25, 2016
  9. danzca6

    danzca6 Well-Known Member

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    If a is interested in this mod, ultibots.com has everything 10% off the whole forth of July weekend with coupon code SAVE10%
     
    #29 danzca6, Jul 1, 2016
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