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Y Axis Bearing Alternative

Discussion in 'Mods and Upgrades' started by WheresWaldo, Nov 28, 2015.

  1. KTMDirtFace

    KTMDirtFace Well-Known Member

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    That requires work other than pressing print and forgetting about it. haha. Sanding I'm ok with. I don't like the tape method. I'm just printing a test block with 15.9, 16.0, 16.1, 16.2 and 16.3 diameter holes in it.

    Actually Waldo's file above fit the bearings perfectly anyway.. Just got the bearings today.

    I need to modify the x carriage though so I want a perfect fit with no fuss for that.


    EDIT: Finished my test block. Magenta Esun PETG ( I finally opened it )

    I think i'm going to go with 16 or 16.1 diameter for my setup. I can actually fit it in the 15.9 hole but I dont like having to hammer it in. 16 is tight. 16.1 is tight but may move eventually. I'll probably go with 16. Waldo what size hole did you use on the Y Axis block?

    [​IMG]
     
    #21 KTMDirtFace, Feb 16, 2016
    Last edited: Feb 16, 2016
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  2. danzca6

    danzca6 Well-Known Member

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    I hope you aren't hammering the insert. The manufacture spec states not to press the bearing against the insert. Looks like you should tap around the black edges. Not sure if hammering on the insert will mess it up or not. 15.9 is the spec for the hole and if you open Waldo's supplied 360 file you can see that is what he used. So you should be food with that. I redesigned the x-carriage and that is the size I used as well. Haven't printed it yet since I don't have the bearings yet, but doing what you did is the best to make sure you have the right dimension prior to printing the whole part. Good job.
     
  3. WheresWaldo

    WheresWaldo Volunteer ( ͠° ͟ʖ ͡°)
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    I used 15.9 mm, a properly calibrated printer with proper slicer settings should print it accurately and it should just push in without having to hammer it in.Both Slic3r and S3D can adjust hole size without any other settings change.
     
  4. KTMDirtFace

    KTMDirtFace Well-Known Member

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    "hammering" was an exaggeration, but on the x cairrage for the normal bearings from thinginverse I ruined a bunch of bearings trying to get them in...that carriage was majorly loose so I kept printing test things for the stock bearings and ended up ruining my bearings every time. ( those linear bearings are a bitch to get out once they are in. )

    I think I can press these in at 15.9 with my fingers without much trouble.

    Currently printing 2 of Waldos Y blocks..with no mods and they should work .. I printed one the other day and I put the new bearing half way in it with just my thumb and it was fine( didn't want it to get stuck forever before i printed 2 real blocks ).
     
  5. WheresWaldo

    WheresWaldo Volunteer ( ͠° ͟ʖ ͡°)
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    These bearings are actually in a tapered sleeve, it is just a hair under 15.9 mm at the very back and then tapers to 15.9 just under the flange.
     
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  6. KTMDirtFace

    KTMDirtFace Well-Known Member

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    They fit, with your file. in PETG.. Im not happy with my print settings i think i might get some layer separation at some point, but i'm not going to try to remove these bearings.. I'll fix it if it falls apart :)

    Printing a X carriage now then i'll get to installing and doing the drill deal to align them.

    Thanks!

    [​IMG]
     
  7. KTMDirtFace

    KTMDirtFace Well-Known Member

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    Started Getting some binding once I bolted them down tight. individually without the plastic rod holders on each end t hey slide super free. I think i will try loosening up the bolts and sliding it around and re-tightening.
     
  8. danzca6

    danzca6 Well-Known Member

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    When putting on the y axis end caps make sure it is square. I sometimes think there should be set screws to lock the rods in a given place in the end caps for square, but the magnets on the bed and caps probably control the positioning more. Seems to me the cure for binding for another was to just loosen the bolts and run the axis to both ends and then tightening. There is a little wiggle, so I've heard, with the blocks side to side that should give you some adjustment. Hopefully that helps.
     
  9. WheresWaldo

    WheresWaldo Volunteer ( ͠° ͟ʖ ͡°)
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    They don't need to be super tight, just snug so they don't move around.
     
  10. KTMDirtFace

    KTMDirtFace Well-Known Member

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    They are just snug. I imagine loosening them sliding it around and snugging them up will fix me.
     
  11. KTMDirtFace

    KTMDirtFace Well-Known Member

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    Loosening them up sliding it around and re-tightening ( just enough so that its just on the verge of snug..if that makes sense ) worked perfect. Thanks
     
  12. WheresWaldo

    WheresWaldo Volunteer ( ͠° ͟ʖ ͡°)
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    After a few hours of printing they will get even smoother and quieter. @KTMDirtFace you will really see the benefit then.
     
  13. KTMDirtFace

    KTMDirtFace Well-Known Member

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    Oh i still havn't actually printed since installing this but I forgot. I did need some spacers to get the belts better aligned. Thanks for the tip in your instructions!

    I did this. in 100% petg
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    Added spacer file, its nothing special. 8mm inner diameter, 16mm outer diameter. 1.5mm extrusion thickness
     

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  14. danzca6

    danzca6 Well-Known Member

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    You might want to put the new spacer under the metal washer. That way the two washers keep the belt on the bearing better. Just a thought.
     
  15. KTMDirtFace

    KTMDirtFace Well-Known Member

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    Yea probably a good idea. Its working good right now though no issues. I had some vibrations/noise but after one print that went away.
     
  16. TylerJ

    TylerJ New Member

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    For v6, do you remember what length of socket cap screws?
     
  17. WheresWaldo

    WheresWaldo Volunteer ( ͠° ͟ʖ ͡°)
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    The recess is big enough to use the original phillips head screws or anything 30 mm or longer should work
     
  18. Randy Solomon

    Randy Solomon New Member

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    I just found a different source for the bearings at a better price. They are $2.79 each for the 8mm size so about $11.16 for 4, haven't checked on shipping, but can't be much.

    http://qbcbearings.com/BuyRFQ/PressB_Sintered_CSR_M.htm#

    They also have the same bearings in inch sizes, so maybe a 3/8 inch shaft, in between 8 and 10mm would work. The shaft would be easier to find here in the US.
     
  19. jediknight0

    jediknight0 Active Member

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    I just designed one. It hasn't had a great deal of testing (just a single calibration cube), but it seems to be working on my R1 and it's fairly quiet now...

    http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1568775
     
  20. KTMDirtFace

    KTMDirtFace Well-Known Member

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    I'm still getting weird vibrations on the Y axis. I had to leave the mount blocks fairly loose to prevent binding, so I imagine thats part of my problem. I may have to reprint the bearing blocks with a tiny offset I guess. As it stands it feels smooth moving it by hand but as it prints the Y vibrates and leaves strange vibration lines in my print. I can tell its vibrating because I can see the Robo3D paint on the bed shaking as it prints.
     

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