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Answered Z-Axes out of sync with Simplify 3D

Discussion in 'Troubleshooting' started by Vandel212, Jan 11, 2019.

  1. Vandel212

    Vandel212 New Member

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    Hi, I have a Robo 3D R1+, and I'm using the default profile for it with simplify 3D. When I finish a print, I notice that my X Gantry is way out of level. The right side is visibly higher than the left side. So much so that it wont even auto-level on the next print. What that tells me is during the print, the Right z-axis is moving up faster than the left.

    I do not believe this is a hardware issue, as when I use the Craftware slicer, it works properly (I tried the same model with both slicers). Is there a setting or something I need to adjust in Simplify3D to get this to print properly?

    I've attached the gcode to this thread if it would help.
     

    Attached Files:

  2. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    well are you autoleveling with Simplify?
    There is nothing in the GCode that it generates that can cause the Z axis to get out of sync unless you have configured it for the wrong printer. The R1+ (unlike the R1) has two different drivers for the Z (one for each threaded rod) and if you have the wrong firmware loaded it is probable that the two could desync and if you had the wrong printer configured it is possible the slicer could make that happen (although I am not exactly sure how, but I can imagine it at least).
     
  3. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    Your startup GCode is quite a bit different:

    from the GOOD file:
    G28 X0 Y0
    G28 Z0
    M104 S210 ;set head temp (no wait)
    M190 S60 ;set bed temp (wait)
    M109 S210 ;set head temp (wait)
    M106 S0 ;turn off fan
    G21 ; mm
    G90 ; abs
    G92 E0 ;reset extr


    From the BAD file:
    G90
    M82
    M106 S0
    M140 S60
    M190 S60
    G28 ; home all axes
    G29 ; probe the bed
    G1 Z5 F5000 ; lift nozzle
    M109 S210 ; set the extruder temp and wait
    G1 X0 Y0 ; move to begin wipe
    G1 X20 Z0 F4800 ; wipe
    T0
    G92 E0.0000
    G1 E-1.5000 F1800


    Why so much variance?

    The good one makes more sense...
     
  4. Vandel212

    Vandel212 New Member

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    I double checked, I picked the Robo3D R1 Plus profile. If one slicer works (Craftware) and one doesn't (Simplify 3D), how could it be a firmware issue?

    My guess is because it's two different slicers. I can't imagine it's the start up causing the issue, because the right z-Axis goes up faster than the left throughout the entire print.
     
  5. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    There's no settings I am aware of in S3D that allows this to be controlled. As far as it cares there is a single "control" the Z axis (the fact that Robo splits these with 2 drivers is beyond silly since one is all that is needed*). However since it is misbehaving you need to go talk to Simplify3D support about this (they DO have support). They know their software better than anyone here.



    *That doesn't mean a single stepper, but the Z stepper driver can easily support two Z steppers because they are not high-speed or high-current demand. Most RAMPS boards are configured this way for that exact reason.
     
    #5 mark tomlinson, Jan 12, 2019
    Last edited: Jan 12, 2019
  6. Geof

    Geof Volunteer Moderator
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    Speeds and shop could effect the as final position (up and down more causes a more obvious issue). At a guess thestepper driver for the low side is a tad weak and they aren’t moving together as one would need. Easy check or cheap replacement
     
  7. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    Yep, I concur -- that other slicer (not S3D) is probably using lower numbers for speed and acceleration that allow the weak stepper driver to keep up and with Simplify3D that is not happening
     
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  8. Vandel212

    Vandel212 New Member

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    Sorry to resurrect an old thread, but I'm still having this issue, I just took a break from the printer. I got in touch with Simplify3D's support, and we treid removing the line in the gcode:

    "G29 ; probe the bed"

    That seemed to solve the issue of the z-axis being out of wack. However, it does not auto-level which I'm assuming is the purpose of the G29 command. This isn't a huge deal to me, but I noticed that when I do run the code with the G29 line, both z rods are active the entire time. Even if it's on the same layer, if you touch the rods, you can feel them making little micro adjustments. I'm not sure if it's supposed to do that, but perhaps that's an indicator of the root problem?


    I'm glad checking the stepper motors is easy, how do I go about doing that? :D
     
  9. Geof

    Geof Volunteer Moderator
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    the easiest thing to do is swap the little stepper driver card on the board with another axis (say X or Y- one that is known working well) if the problem follows to that axis- replace the stepper driver. If it doesn't and everything works- order stepper drivers for when it comes again.

    G29 is the autolevel sequence. Correct that removing it will make it not autolevel-Yes both Z rods should work together during a print with and without a G29. Sounds normal to me.
     
  10. Vandel212

    Vandel212 New Member

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    Shouldn't the z-axis remain still until it's time to go to the next layer?
     
  11. WheresWaldo

    WheresWaldo Volunteer ( ͠° ͟ʖ ͡°)
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    No, Auto-leveling works by making micro adjustments to the Z axis while X and Y move all over the bed.
     
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  12. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    Yep, it calculates a grid of correction points that it will use as the nozzle travels over the "plane" of the bed. As it moves X/Y it corrects the Z for how unlevel that section of the bed is (up or down)
     
  13. Vandel212

    Vandel212 New Member

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    Ah, I did not know that. Thank you. So odds are it's still a little out of level after a print if I don't use the G29 command, just less than compared to when I do use G29 because it's not moving the z-axes as much.

    So let's assume one of the drivers is bad, where would I get a new driver card?
     
  14. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    #14 mark tomlinson, Mar 6, 2019
    Last edited: Mar 6, 2019
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  15. Vandel212

    Vandel212 New Member

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    Is thermal paste alone enough to keep it on there?
     
  16. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    No need for thermal paste, they are stick-on (self-adhesive) heat sinks.
     
  17. Vandel212

    Vandel212 New Member

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    Just figured I'd follow up on the thread for posterity. I bought the drivers you suggested, said screw it, and just replaced all 5 on the printer. I figured if it fixed it, wonderful, if not, then I have 5 new drivers. Turns out, it fixed it!

    I printed a few different things with the G29 code in there, and after the print it was perfectly level. It also helped with my printer not being able to print a straight vertical wall to save it's life. Everything I printed recently just looked wobbly. flat vertical surfaces are still not super smooth, but I think that's something I can fix in with the slicer.

    The noise reduction was a nice little bonus, I wasn't expecting it to be so much quieter either.

    Thanks again for the help, all!
     
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