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Solved Z-axis end stop does not work anmore

Discussion in 'Troubleshooting' started by ikre, Jun 20, 2016.

  1. ikre

    ikre New Member

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    Hi there,

    i wanted to see if the printer was stil calibrated, so i wanted to home everything. I now see that the y-ax end stop does not work. This means that the nozzle keeps going down even when the end stop is pressed. I have looked at the wire to see if it has come loose from the controller board, but that is not the case...
    What can i do now??

    any other options to check?

    i also resetted the software en switched the printer off and on again.
     
  2. Geof

    Geof Volunteer Moderator
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    What printer do you have ? Sounds like one of your z (up and down) switches is out of whack.
     
  3. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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  4. ikre

    ikre New Member

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    I am working with the very first version Robo3D
     
  5. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    Then you have one Z switch.
    You need to trace it back to the RAMPS board and make sure it is still connected and that the wires are still connected (and not loose) on the switch itself. Since you said "down" I assume you meant the Z axis (not the Y axis like you typed originally) so if you did actually mean 'Y' then check that one (it is under the bed).
     
  6. ikre

    ikre New Member

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    I realy mean the Z axis indeed...i have already traced the wire to the mega board, but it is still connected. I will get my multimeter to see if it stil works...
     
  7. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    Even better, with the power off check the switch resistance back from the RAMPS. Disconnect it from the RAMPS and open/close the switch and make sure it is actually working correctly.
     
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  8. ikre

    ikre New Member

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    that is a good one......i jus tryed to get Mattercontrol up and running, but the printer gets connected but does not even respond...so i think there is more going on....

    But first things first. Measure the end stop connector.
     
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  9. ikre

    ikre New Member

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    Measured it ans switch works correctly.......next step.....looking at the software...
     
  10. ikre

    ikre New Member

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    Started the software( i use the astrobox (software through raspberry pi) and tryed the controls. Now then i push UP the extruder goes up. When i push DOWN, the extrudes does NOT go down. When i push the Z stop switch, it goed down. When i release the Z stop switch, the extruder stops. I pressed the HOME button in the software. Nothing happens. Now i press DOWN again and the extruder goes down. But when i press the Z stop switch again, nothing happens....so now the switch does not respond anymore....

    WHAT is wrong with this........hahahaha

    Anyone a idea????
     
  11. Geof

    Geof Volunteer Moderator
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    Can you share a few pictures of your z switches
     
  12. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    Switch. Singular.
    Attached to the threaded rod* just below the bed :)

    (it is a beta)

    But, yes... a picture will help since folks are unfamiliar with them



    *well, somewhere on the threaded rod.
     
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  13. Geof

    Geof Volunteer Moderator
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    A beta ! Convert to auto level then share a picture lol
     
  14. ikre

    ikre New Member

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    I would gladly like to convert it to auto level, but have not researched HOW...

    Here are the pictures of the problem maker.

    [​IMG]


    [​IMG]
     
  15. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    Got you covered.

    Buy at least one of these (you can reuse the old one -- you need at least two):

    http://store.robo3d.com/collections/parts/products/endstops

    Print two of these:
    http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:349935

    you need a couple of 2x 5/16"-18 Coupling nuts
    The entire parts list is on that thingiverse page (not much really)

    That picture shows you how the new switches mount.
    It also has instructions on that page for the rest of the conversion. You essential wire the two switches in series. and remount them as show (up against the bottom of the cross-bar carriage)

    Once you are done you can use the current R1 version of the firmware (if you ever do the leadscrew upgrade then you can use the R1+ version)
     
    #15 mark tomlinson, Jun 23, 2016
    Last edited: Jun 23, 2016
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  16. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    It actually takes about an hour (two at most) once you have the parts bought and printed.
    You can always 'roll back' to your old beta by reattaching the one switch back to the old post and reusing the beta firmware :)

    I would never consider it, the autoleveling is so much nicer.
     
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  17. ikre

    ikre New Member

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    thanks for the comments and i already use the same end stop as in the link you posted...
     
  18. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    Yes, they are the same for Beta->R1+, but you only have one.
    If you want to add autoleveling you need two and they need to be moved to a slightly different location.
    That is why I said buy 1 (you can reuse the old one for a total of 2)
     
  19. ikre

    ikre New Member

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    aaah...thanks.....

    but this does not explain the problem of my current printer..
     
  20. Geof

    Geof Volunteer Moderator
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    Put a dmm on continuity check to see if the switch works. If wired normally open you shouldnt get a reading until you press the switch. Normally closee is opposite. The switch will say where the wires are attached (no=normally open, nc=normally closed)
     

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