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Partially Solved Z leveling issue in one corner

Discussion in 'Troubleshooting' started by Mike Noel, Aug 4, 2016.

  1. Mike Noel

    Mike Noel New Member

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    The front left corner of my r1+ first layer print with PLA, 55 bed temp, 210 nozzle temp, hairspray adhesion, looks abnormal compared with the remainder of the bed. I've attached a photo. Andy help is appreciated. Thanks.
     

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    #1 Mike Noel, Aug 4, 2016
  2. Geof

    Geof Volunteer Moderator
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    Hi mike have you done a paper leveling to ensure they is level with the bed ?
     
    #2 Geof, Aug 4, 2016
  3. Mike Noel

    Mike Noel New Member

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    No. Didn't know it was useful with autoleveling. If it is high or low in that corner how do I adjust it?
     
    #3 Mike Noel, Aug 4, 2016
  4. Geof

    Geof Volunteer Moderator
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    Typically i do a paper level by lowering the nozzle to the bed until a piece of paper juat fita between the nozzle and bed. Power off the printer slide the nozzle to the other side of tge bed and if the paper under the nozzle doesnt feel the same as the other side turn that threaded rod while holding the other. Repeat the process until all sides feel even. Then if its still off youll want to consider shimming the bed under the magnets so auto level has less work to do
     
    #4 Geof, Aug 5, 2016
  5. danzca6

    danzca6 Well-Known Member

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    Another thing to check is to take a straight edge across the bed at different points and angles to check if the glass is warped. Just had another user with warping of the bed. Now, mesh leveling is coming in the next version of Marlin firmware and I feel that this new feature will be far better than ABL for instances of warping. ABL just assumes a flat plain and how that plain as a whole is angled. Mesh takes many measurements across the bed and stores where the high and lows are and will call out warps. Then the z axis will compensate on all prints based on that stored image of the bed. RC7 is the latest release and not sure when the final will be, but something to look forward to. Also, if your printer is still under warranty, it might not be a bad idea to call robo if you find that there is warping in the bed to see if they would honor a replacement. Hopefully it's not warped and a paper level will help you out.
     
    #5 danzca6, Aug 5, 2016
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  6. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    Manual leveling to try and split the difference is your only other alternative and if the warp is large enough that is just going to be a pain and still not give you perfect results.
     
    #6 mark tomlinson, Aug 5, 2016
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  7. Mike Noel

    Mike Noel New Member

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    OK, I did the paper check and, using the z offsets shown by MC's manual control mode, the bed edges differed by about .7mm max. I shimmed under the magnets and got the max z diff down to about .3 mm and the first layer looks more consistent. The bed does not appear to be warped as the z diffs remaining are consistent with a slightly tilted flat surface. It appears the Robo auto level feature is not very effective.
     
    #7 Mike Noel, Aug 13, 2016
  8. WheresWaldo

    WheresWaldo Volunteer ( ͠° ͟ʖ ͡°)
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    @Mike Noel welcome to the world of 3D printing! The auto-level works well if your bed is fairly level to begin with and this is not a Robo phenomenon, it affects all Marlin based printers to some extent. Once you have your bed parallel to the X-Axis rails it works much better. But since the Robo uses the nozzle as a probe (which is an ingenious solution in a flawed implementation) and the bed flexes you will always have some inconsistency in the leveling offsets.
     
    #8 WheresWaldo, Aug 14, 2016

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