Bubbly boat issue

looks to me like overspeed, over retraction or not enough and temp isn't dialed in. Deprime test prints much faster than a benchy and will show same end results

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:66175

 

I have a box full of Deprime, I only have one Benchy.

 

doesn't look terrible but not great for high quality. You may want to check your temperature and make sure your extruder is calibrated correctly.

 

Nope after thar its all print settings. What part are you not liking on the deprime ?

 

Speed on the deprime and ringing seems to be common on the R2 units right now. Can you remind me what materiL and bed heat your using ? First layers look very hot or squished

 

Whats the hotend temp for the first layers and are you turning on your cooling fans at all?

 

The diagonal lines are the infill showing through, add perimeters, the waves are ringing that are a know issue on the r2-no fix yet, the rough may actually be foxed by the perimeter addition ignore my other questions lol

Deprime arrow looks like retract marks maybe

 

Okay lets reset here, first with expectations. putting plastic a layer at a time will never give you a perfectly smooth finish. If you are trying to compare this Benchy to, let's say a Lego Brick, stop right now! You will never be happy, even printers that cost several hundreds of thousands of dollars, when examined under a magnifying glass will show you flaws.

Now let's address these issues one at a time.

Rough - could be a number of things, might also contribute to the wavy which will be addressed next. Some extrusion settings could be at play here and maybe a bit hotter can make ABS flow better, but may increase stringing. Its all about compromises with consumer 3D printers. Can be mitigated through slicer settings.

Wavy - that can be mitigated by lowing the acceleration values. the ringing is a direct result of trying to instantly accelerate a direction change to its maximum speed. The Marlin developers intentionally left all these parameters high so that it would force people to tune them appropriately. Robo did that and lowered it to a level they felt was acceptable. If you don't think it is acceptable you can lower the acceleration values even more. Can be corrected and saved with specific g-codes.

Diagonal Lines - I will be honest, I can only guess what is happening here, but my guess is that this model was sliced so that each new layer started as close to where the last layer ended. That is usually a slicer setting, but like I said that is a guess. Also if you are ever so slightly over-extruding the start/end point of the perimeter might have a bit more extrude. Or it could be that retraction was turned off. Retraction helps with oozing at the beginning or end of a line since it relieves back pressure. All a guess. Can be mitigated with Slicer settings.

Mark - At this close it looks like a bit of over-extrusion however minimal. It could contribute to the mark, or it might be that after the layer was done the nozzle dragged across the previous layer and disturbed the finish. again a slicer setting for lift at retraction or layer end, sometimes called Z-Axis hop.

So, you need to ask your self, are you looking for perfect or just good enough? That will tell you is you can live with tweaking the settings or using it as its. (Please note that I used the word perfect to make a point, it will never be perfect.)

 

Well, the larger you go on printers the rougher the details can get *
I would go through the settings as @WheresWaldo suggested. A lot of what you are seeing can be tweaked in the slicer (simply trying a different slicer can give you a new perspective)



*my C2 outdoes the R1 series all day long, but largely because it is a much smaller print mechanism and so much less slop** to handle. A large printer means more **drive lash. Simple as that (center distance and run-out are way more on the R2).