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Partially Solved 1st level and ledding, checking, LED modding

Discussion in 'Troubleshooting' started by DobryG, Sep 29, 2016.

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  1. JoshYourITGuy

    JoshYourITGuy Active Member

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    In regards to the LEDs, if these are the basic cheap strip LEDs with sticky backing, I had the same issue, flickering, even with a solid connection to the spare terminals on the power supply. Turned out to be the cheap "vampire tap" connections at the base of the strip. I ended up soldering the wires directly on and the problem went away.
     
    #41 JoshYourITGuy, Oct 13, 2016
  2. DobryG

    DobryG Member

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    and one else:

    I've found that my extruder mount (both hotend nozzle and so on) has not right angle, but vary angles to the bed surface, look at the photo
    20161014_185107.jpg
    Is that normal? Can it cause problems?
    What gonna be right angles a, b and c?
     
    #42 DobryG, Oct 14, 2016
  3. Chuck Erwin

    Chuck Erwin Active Member

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    I just looked at mine and well it looks squared up. I am no expert but I am going with "no that's not normal" but I can't tell from the picture what's tilted. Try using a level on the bed. I had to do that to get my bed level.

    Edit: Using my camera it does distort the angles somewhat. but the nozzle shouldn't be at an angle to the bed.
     
    #43 Chuck Erwin, Oct 14, 2016
    Last edited: Oct 14, 2016
  4. DobryG

    DobryG Member

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    you mean in every case of a, b and c = 90 or 0 degrees?
     
    #44 DobryG, Oct 14, 2016
  5. Chuck Erwin

    Chuck Erwin Active Member

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    I am not sure about the other angles but the nozzle angle "B" should be at right angles. It shouldn't hit the bed at an angle.

    I would use a plum, a string with a weight on it and hang it from the top to see whats tilted.
     
    #45 Chuck Erwin, Oct 14, 2016
    Last edited: Oct 14, 2016
  6. DobryG

    DobryG Member

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    How do you think - is that critical? Not sure I can fix it myself...
     
    #46 DobryG, Oct 14, 2016
  7. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    It is not correctly mounted in the carriage.
    If you have the Beta (as you stated early in the thread)
    then undo the two screws on the side of the carriage that hold the extruder in place and drop it out.
    Make sure when you position it back in that it is snug in the socket and nothing is broken (none of the carriage plastic frame is broken).
    Replace the screws to hold it firmly in place (it must not move when reinstalling the two screws).
     
    #47 mark tomlinson, Oct 14, 2016
    Geof likes this.
  8. DobryG

    DobryG Member

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    these 2?
    Screenshot_5.png
     
    #48 DobryG, Oct 14, 2016
  9. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    That looks like the ones.

    Since they are self-tapping threads into the top notch of the extruder when they are installed, they can be difficult to get out without stripping the Phillips head. I suggest replacing them with hex-head screws (I used M4 with hex/allen heads) to prevent stripping as easy.
     
    #49 mark tomlinson, Oct 14, 2016
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  10. DobryG

    DobryG Member

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    I pull it out, and.... I got E3D now gonna mount it, maybe it'd be better
     
    #50 DobryG, Oct 18, 2016
  11. DobryG

    DobryG Member

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    Attached Files:

    #51 DobryG, Oct 18, 2016
  12. Geof

    Geof Volunteer Moderator
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    your left extruder looks incorrect. Bowden connector on top wont work on the stock Robo set up
     
    #52 Geof, Oct 18, 2016
  13. DobryG

    DobryG Member

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    I'm thinking how to solve that problem
     
    #53 DobryG, Oct 18, 2016
  14. DobryG

    DobryG Member

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    I can screw out this part, but then having problems with filament exchange
     

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    #54 DobryG, Oct 18, 2016
  15. danzca6

    danzca6 Well-Known Member

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    I am also guessing that isn't a genuine E3D hotend
     
    #55 danzca6, Oct 18, 2016
  16. DobryG

    DobryG Member

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    it has many additionals, that is removable options, though. And looks well done. And i want hem to be in but standard set up Robo3d plates
     
    #56 DobryG, Oct 18, 2016
  17. DobryG

    DobryG Member

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    Fixed extruder angles, made good bed levelling, but - can't make 1st layer stable stick.

    Please, help with normal mattercontrol settings? feel problem with that

    Robo3d PLA filament, that really print without issues
     
    #57 DobryG, Oct 31, 2016
  18. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    Most likely you need to adjust the initial Z offset.
    I can't tell you how to do that in MatterControl, but most slicers you would set this in the StartUp Gcode section.
    If the filament doesn't look this on the first layer then adjust it:

    https://printedsolid.com/blogs/news/tagged/first-layer

    Start with

    M565 Z-1.0

    which is a 1mm offset. And adjust it up (more negative) or down (less negative) in 0.1 increments until you find the correct spot.
     
    #58 mark tomlinson, Oct 31, 2016
  19. DobryG

    DobryG Member

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    If nobody print with mattercontrol (original firmware) please tell what you use, and settings of it, maybe that's problem?

    So now, I'm printing from -1,8 till 1,2..... The same all over time. Seems it doesn't look at g-code anymore. I'm not controlling it

    When i press "z-home" it stops at 0.1-0.2 from bed, but there I can't change anything by firmware

    I use gluestick, bad stick
     

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    #59 DobryG, Oct 31, 2016
  20. DobryG

    DobryG Member

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    But seems this G-code should effect as this setting in mattercontrol. I'll try now +|- 0.05 in there
    Screenshot_2.png
     
    #60 DobryG, Oct 31, 2016
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