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Partially Solved 1st level and ledding, checking, LED modding

Discussion in 'Troubleshooting' started by DobryG, Sep 29, 2016.

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  1. DobryG

    DobryG Member

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    I modified my printer (Robo3d R1 beta) a little:

    1. Changed motherboard 40mm 12V0.12A FAN to 92mm 12V0.14A
    2. Connected 2 LED lamps into the FAN electric cable, parallel

    during work lights flickering. How d'you think is there any problem?



    read 10 pages of troubleshooting... maybe these problems is too nooby, but didn't find the answer

    printed test cube 15mm cube, with test PLA filament (exactly original sample filament). 210/50 (extruder/bed temp) hairspray adhesion, 30mm/sec

    1. at the beginning of printing in the extruder in the first pass nachel constantly engages the thread and makes everything on the table in the stuffing. The photo shows how he hooked his arms but I managed to hold the workpiece and stop the lawlessness. How can I solve this problem?

    I wipe the nozzle by cloth before printing, but until the head comes to the place of printing it snots (looks like it's crying)

    The impression that in the beginning of the extruder pours and does snot. Generally 1st layer stickness dont looks stable. Changed Z levels - same story

    2. even on such a small envelope huge shrinkage of the material, the workpiece strongly bended, temperature problems? Can i solve that?

    3. Last level not contacted with edges, slot left

    4. Smooth edges - more rounded as I wish - can it be solved?

    Thank you!
     
    #1 DobryG, Sep 29, 2016
  2. WheresWaldo

    WheresWaldo Volunteer ( ͠° ͟ʖ ͡°)
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    The fan might be using PWM so you will get flicker if that is the case, why not hook up your additional LED to the LED wiring that already exists?

    1. I have no idea what you are talking about here and the picture was not attached to this message.

    2. All materials expand and shrink when heated and cooled, some more than others. Most people account for that in slicer profiles. That is why slicers allow for different parameters to be set based on the material type.

    3. Picture please

    4. If the edges are not sharp enough it might be printer settings, but it is more likely the fact that it is impossible to decelerate and accelerate instantaneously when a corner is reached, slowing the print down and using smaller layer heights will generally increase corner sharpness. The next step after that would be to go to a smaller nozzle orifice to increase apparent resolution.
     
    #2 WheresWaldo, Sep 29, 2016
    Geof likes this.
  3. DobryG

    DobryG Member

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    sorry, made pictures and forget to upload 20160929_151713.jpg 20160929_151744.jpg 20160929_151825.jpg
     
    #3 DobryG, Sep 29, 2016
  4. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    What slicer?
    What filament?
    What settings did you use?
     
    #4 mark tomlinson, Sep 29, 2016
  5. Ryan TeGantvoort

    Ryan TeGantvoort Active Member

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    I feel the LEDs should be the last of your worries. Just disconnect from the Fan and splice the current LEDs like WheresWaldo said. Or completely disconnect until the other issues are fixed. I am not sure why you would connect to the fan in the first place. Lots of issues going on with that print. Give us the information mark tomlinson requested to begin with.
     
    #5 Ryan TeGantvoort, Sep 29, 2016
  6. DobryG

    DobryG Member

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    Oh, i just did'nt new it is

    PLA filament (exactly original sample filament). 210/50 (extruder/bed temp) hairspray adhesion, 30mm/sec.
    All original firmware. Default settings
     
    #6 DobryG, Sep 29, 2016
  7. Geof

    Geof Volunteer Moderator
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    do you have something other than the sample filament? That stuff can drive you crazy.
     
    #7 Geof, Sep 29, 2016
    mark tomlinson likes this.
  8. Ryan TeGantvoort

    Ryan TeGantvoort Active Member

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    I actually had pretty good luck with the Robo filament. Everyone says its bad stuff, I can't wait to use some good filament! I may have got lucky or something, but everyone's mileage seems to vary in 3d printing.
     
    #8 Ryan TeGantvoort, Sep 29, 2016
  9. Ryan TeGantvoort

    Ryan TeGantvoort Active Member

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    More.....Which Slicer? How many Top/Bottom Layers? Lower Extruder Temp to help eliminate the "snot" as you call it. 190C seems like a good temp for me but again everything varies slightly from printer to printer.
     
    #9 Ryan TeGantvoort, Sep 29, 2016
  10. DobryG

    DobryG Member

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    Lower temp... will try it later. Slicer - all original..MatterControl + Arduino?
     
    #10 DobryG, Sep 29, 2016
  11. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    Robo sells whole spools, we are not talking about that :) Just the loose sample 'blue' they send with the new printers.
     
    #11 mark tomlinson, Sep 29, 2016
  12. DobryG

    DobryG Member

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    Mark, I have 3 Robo spools vary colors... I'm f... loser? Its bad for me
     
    #12 DobryG, Sep 29, 2016
  13. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    The 'bad' stuff is the loose, unspooled, blue sample they include with the printers. The filament they sell is probably fine.
     
    #13 mark tomlinson, Sep 29, 2016
  14. Ryan TeGantvoort

    Ryan TeGantvoort Active Member

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    I got one of the bundles which included the small blue spool and a 1kg spool of red and white.
     
    #14 Ryan TeGantvoort, Sep 29, 2016
  15. DobryG

    DobryG Member

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    Just one question until i'll try new settings

    What my standart Robo3d R1 beta 8mm screws lead?

    So I wanna try to get extruder 0,05mm lower and test, which is my turn calc for it
     
    #15 DobryG, Sep 30, 2016
  16. Geof

    Geof Volunteer Moderator
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    the best way to know what threads you have since it varies is grab a nut of each size and see which one fits. I'm not sure what your trying to do...but if your just trying to lower the extruder wouldn't that be your z offset? I wouldn't go mucking with the firmware...once the steps are right, they are right. If you elaborate more on exactly what your trying to do we can be more helpful :D
     
    #16 Geof, Sep 30, 2016
  17. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    This is confusing. There are currently three models.
    1) the beta
    2) the R1
    3) the R1+

    you need to be specific about which one you have.
     
    #17 mark tomlinson, Sep 30, 2016
  18. DobryG

    DobryG Member

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    1) the beta

    You helped me determine that. I measured screw threads - 8mm diameters
     
    #18 DobryG, Sep 30, 2016
  19. danzca6

    danzca6 Well-Known Member

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    hmmm...didn't know that the beta had 8mm threaded rods. I thought they were 5/16".
     
    #19 danzca6, Sep 30, 2016
  20. DobryG

    DobryG Member

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    5/16" it is 7,938 mm. OK, I maybe mistaken in my measuring. How can we find the truth?
     
    #20 DobryG, Sep 30, 2016
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