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3rd Party RAMPS

Discussion in 'Mods and Upgrades' started by Gary Boyce, Jan 1, 2019.

  1. Gary Boyce

    Gary Boyce Member

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    Any suggestions for a 3rd party RAMPS board for the R2? I believe mine is broken. It can't turn the extruder motor and I have tried replacing the motor. I really don't want to by from Robo.
     
  2. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    You will need to swap their control board for an Arduino 2560 + a RAMPS 1.4 clone with Marlin firmware (their custom board does the job of both)

    You can use the 1.1.9 version of the firmware that is posted in a thread in the R1+ section of the forum because at that point the "hardare" will be the same. Just make sure you set the correct print area dimensions in the new firmware and you will be fine.

    Plan to do the same to my C2 if the electronics ever gives me grief.
     
  3. Gary Boyce

    Gary Boyce Member

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    Thanks Mark! Would I be able to us the UBL with that as well?
    I guess I would have to break-out the cable that goes up to the extruder assembly. What is that ribbon cable connector called?
     
  4. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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  5. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    and I would suggest getting one of the All-in-one kits from amazon (here are examples) :

    https://smile.amazon.com/d/3D-Print...rinter-Controller-Arduino-Starter/B016D6DSBW/

    https://smile.amazon.com/OSOYOO-Printer-Controller-Stepper-Heatsink/dp/B0111ZSS2O/

    https://smile.amazon.com/Quimat-Printer-Controller-Arduino-Upgraded/dp/B07CNDYWLD/

    It may have some parts you don't need (like an LCD) but it will have everything cheaper than standalone buying them and I have had better quality parts from the kits.
     
  6. WheresWaldo

    WheresWaldo Volunteer ( ͠° ͟ʖ ͡°)
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    It might be easier to fit it all in with a cheap combo board like these,

    MKS-Gen V1.4 Controller Board - This one will need stepper drivers too.
    MKS Base V1.5 Mainboard - This one is fully integrated into one board.
    Controller Board for Reprap - Here is a third style, just to show some variety

    Personally, if my Robo electronics mainboard goes, I would have no issues using the MKS Gen-L or Gen V1.4 boards. That would allow the opportunity to put TMC 2130 drivers in the R2 and get faster and quieter at the same time.

    A few other bits to get the wiring to the outside of the case and 'Bob's your uncle.'
     
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  7. Gary Boyce

    Gary Boyce Member

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  8. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    the mks gen 1.4 is a fine board. Just make sure you know how to define the correct motherboard type in Marlin (in the CONFIGURATION.H) shouldn't be too hard to sort that :)
     
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  9. WheresWaldo

    WheresWaldo Volunteer ( ͠° ͟ʖ ͡°)
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    All MKS boards are made by Makerbase Technology Co., Ltd. no matter who resells them and what other label they stick on the box.

    https://www.aliexpress.com/store/1047297

    I order from Aliexpress and Banggood a lot, especially if I can wait a month for the parts to get here. Otherwise it is smile.amazon.com.
     
  10. Gary Boyce

    Gary Boyce Member

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    This is FANTASTIC! Thanks guys. I can always depend on great answers and suggestions from you two!
     
  11. Gary Boyce

    Gary Boyce Member

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    I got the MKS_Gen_V1.4 board. I have identified each wire/connection from the updown cable. The only thing I am uncertain of is the IR sensor connection. I know that this sensor uses a ATtiny25, so I assume it has to have its "communication line on the right pin on the MKS board limit switch connection. I have identified each pin of the connector on the IR sensor, but I have to put on the connector myself so want to be sure I have the pin in the right order in the connector. I hope you guys can help me here.
     

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  12. WheresWaldo

    WheresWaldo Volunteer ( ͠° ͟ʖ ͡°)
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    Gen 1.4 limit switch sockets are pinned this way
    top pin = +5V
    middle = GND
    bottom = Signal

    The Robo mainboard is wired this way for the Z MIN endstop
    left pin = +5V
    middle = Signal
    right = GND

    I have no information on the small IR board, but maybe you can surmise the correct pins.
     
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  13. Gary Boyce

    Gary Boyce Member

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    That's exactly what I needed!!! The pdf I uploaded shows the IR board pinout. Thanks Again!
     
  14. Gary Boyce

    Gary Boyce Member

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    Maybe I work slow.. but I'm still at it.
    For the -X, -Y, and +Z limit switches:
    They all have just 2 wires. Would I be right to assume that the Robo Board had the resistor built in? Also, are these pull up or pull down? So, I think I will have to add in a resistor and tie it from the signal pin to ground. I added a picture for an example of what I mean. Is this right?
     

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  15. WheresWaldo

    WheresWaldo Volunteer ( ͠° ͟ʖ ͡°)
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    I am pretty sure they are just switching Signal to GND
     
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  16. Gary Boyce

    Gary Boyce Member

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    Cool.. That's nice and easy
     
  17. Lance Weston

    Lance Weston Active Member

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    Hi Gary,

    I have the whole thing working and it is posted search for "
    Using Arduino board on Robo R2 project in process"
    I would recommend using the XYL tech boards on eBay they run $22 for the set. Lots of boards do not work and often they will send you a board different from the description.

    I could send you the arduino file from Robo. The E1 driver is not used and you could recompile changing the io for the extruder to use the E1 io. In my posting I tell you how to burn the Marlin file.
     
  18. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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  19. Lance Weston

    Lance Weston Active Member

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    I was not being clear. I have the first approach that is working and posted. The second approach is to just redefine the extruder from the E0 to the E1 stepper driver which is not being used. I have been trying to upload a zip of a Marlin folder so that you can do this but it is only 2.5MB and I can not do it. Send me you email and I will email you the file. You should be able to use your existing board.
     
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  20. Lance Weston

    Lance Weston Active Member

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