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Beta? printer build

Discussion in 'Projects' started by feralsteph, Feb 12, 2021.

  1. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    If you mean the initial kickstarter in 2013 -- then that is the beta. I have 2 that started off that way :) both have been incrementally upgraded. One is the same as an R1 and the other same as an R1+ (and I do have an actual R1+ too).

    If it is a beta then you MUST download the beta firmware or the Z steps will be way wrong. That is the one thing that varied across all of the R1 series... the steps/mm for the Z axis. Too low and it will be diving in to the bed...
     
  2. feralsteph

    feralsteph New Member

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    I think that's the case.
    It was one of the ones equipped for PLA and ABS.

    Oh okay. As far as I know I haven't done any firmware changes, and use matter control to run it at the moment. Looking at getting an SD card and LCD controller.

    do you have any information on how to check, what the right one is etc?
     
  3. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    You should have an SD card carrier on the Beta, it is well hidden
    Do you have a bottom cover on your machine? If so -- it is at least an R1 (the Beta did not have a bottom cover). If you have the beta it is easy lift it up and look to see where the card mount is located. If it is an R1 (with a bottom cover) look carefully around the edges and you can find the slot for the SD card.

    The LCD addition is nice, but you do not have to use that just for the SD card -- although it is worth doing anyway.
     
  4. feralsteph

    feralsteph New Member

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    No bottom cover at all.

    What exactly do you mean by card carrier?

    Exciting to know.
    I'd like to take it's dependence off a computer.
     
  5. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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  6. feralsteph

    feralsteph New Member

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    Had a good look and I have no SD card areas.

    My LCD with card slot arrived today and connecting it doesn't show anything on the screen. Trying to trawl through posts to see what I need to do to get it to work with the LCD controller. Not having an awful lot of luck.
    Thinking it needs a firmware change/update?

    I'm much better with mechanical things than electrical so this is a bit of a struggle.
     
  7. feralsteph

    feralsteph New Member

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    I have worked it out! I am pretty proud of myself. I have the LCD controller working!
     
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  8. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    There are a couple of cheaper LCD controllers, one style needs a firmware update and the other does not.
    Glad you got it sorted. I had one where the contrast adjust was just jammed all the way off (black screen) and adjusting that brought it up.
     
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  9. feralsteph

    feralsteph New Member

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    Found the firmware change it needed - I'd bought the other LCD, the one is not initially set up for.

    Dove into research and found out how to adjust the z axis while printing from the LCD.

    Currently have the Ender running a print for a case for the controller and the Robo3D running a test calicat to see if it will get through the print solely on the controller - and if I've levelled it will enough and all that.

    The robo is so lots compared to the Ender. Is there anyway to change settings to quieten it down?

    It's coming together pretty well and lots of the stuff on the forum is starting to make more sense too.

    Need to sort a heated pad for it then I think will look into a lead screw upgrade or at least something to stop the z banding.
     
  10. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    You can make sure that (in the firmware) acceleration and jerk are set to reasonable numbers. The Beta started with those set at really stupid numbers in the firmware and that made the steppers work harder (and more noisy).

    There are also stepper smoothers you can use (small electronics boards that sit between the RAMPS and the steppers) and they also help make it less noisy. Example here: https://www.amazon.com/DaFuRui-Smoother-Pattern-Elimination-Clipping/dp/B07QQPD7RT
    They also can fine-tune the actually print quality.

    More details on them here: https://all3dp.com/2/tl-smoother-should-i-add-one-to-my-3d-printer/
     
  11. feralsteph

    feralsteph New Member

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    Thanks. We found those and it helped a bit. Still very noisy so will look into the stepper smoothes.

    Managed to get another print out of it. This time I wanted to print something fun, so after a couple of calibration circles to make sure the bed was level, I printed an octopus!

    First time it lifted off the bed, so I put down painters tape and that worked well. Got a complete print!

    And looks like my z-banding is fixed. I adjusted the couplers, made sure they were even and tight and that seems to have fixed it somehow.

    Al so printed a case for the LCD.

    Pictures here: https://imgur.com/a/QEXdrJU

    Thank you for all your help Mark. You're a fantastic resource that we are lucky to have. Because this printer is old now, it's been hard trying to find out some information that's buried in the forum's and wider internet. And when I do, I often find links are no longer available. It has been my fun take next to replace the heated pad and struggling to find something to suit at the moment and all the links I've found on the forum so far are no longer good.

    I guess this is part of the fun with printers, investigating, researching, trial and error until you get something that works.

    Will hopefully have more positive updates in the near future.
     
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  12. feralsteph

    feralsteph New Member

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  13. feralsteph

    feralsteph New Member

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    Alright! Pretty happy with how the printer has been running, been producing some decent enough prints now. So looking for refinements.

    I'm currently using Cura to slice models and using pretty stock setting for the ender 3 which has been working so far.

    Though being different printers, it just occured to me that maybe I should tweak some settings to make it suit the direct drive beta robo... so begins the search for information.

    What do you guys use to slice your models for the printer and what settings do you find work well?
     
  14. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    Simplify3D is all I use on FDM printers.
    Settings are specific to the filament type, but I have (in the past) posted a ZIP will all of the profiles I was using included.

    I don't use Cura so perhaps someone else can provide you with the profiles/settings it wants.
     
  15. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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  16. feralsteph

    feralsteph New Member

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    Thanks. I have another query.
    How does one change the nozzle of the stock beta hot end?!

    I think it's about time for a nozzle change but really not sure how to go about that as it doesn't look like it can be easily removed. And info on the beta is lacking.

    I think I'd seen things about upgrading hotend. Is this worth it?!

    I've had the printer running pretty alright now. Been printing in TPU the last few days.

    Next I'm going to add some LEDs to illuminate the print and planning the next steps of the hotend nozzle change or upgrade.
     
  17. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    You don't if it was a beta it was an old style ceramic hotend that changing the nozzle is a pain.
    You need to upgrade to a newer all-metal hotend.

    I'd suggest an E3D (and printedsolid.com has them at some of the best price) there is a thread on doing that :) if you can't find it let me know.
     
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  18. feralsteph

    feralsteph New Member

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    I'm back! Had the printer going really well and I'm pretty happy with it, so of course I decided to do more mods because why not!

    I bought a e3dv6 clone (cheap one as an initial test really) and did the changes and all good except the temperature is reading a ridiculous number. Mid 300's without the change to the sensor value and high 700's when I make the recommended change.

    Only got it back together last night so haven't done a full lookover for potential issues yet, but I'm pretty confused as to what would even potentially cause this.

    So that's the next task!

    Also have put a new heater pad on the bed so hopefully I can print PETG on it now. Once I get the hotend working that is...

    Any tips, advice or general direction to look in would be greatly appreciated, otherwise stay tuned!
     
  19. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    OK, so here is the clue :)
    The thermistors are NTC style (Negative Temperature Coefficient)
    This means as the temperature goes down the resistance goes up (and vice versa)
    So a really high reading is ... an short circuit :) Your thermistor wiring is the problem -- sanity check it
    It is quite easy on some of the thermistors to gound one of the wires accidentally (a standard thermistor is like this:

    download (2).jpg

    and those leads are conductive. They need to be covered in kapton tape or some other material that can stand a bit of temperature. Most include some sleeves when you buy them and they must be used. The bare wires can not touch each other or any part of the hotend.

    If you have the canister style (like the new E3D or Hexagon) then it is harder to short the wires, but if the reading is silly high they are shorted :)

    download (2).jpg
     
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  20. feralsteph

    feralsteph New Member

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    Mark, you are a legend!!! Just saved me a fair bit of a headache in reality.

    Even though checking wires was my next step, it's much easier when I have a greater idea of what in actually looking at/for.
    And the quick reply! You are definitely a legend!
    Thanks, appreciate it.

    Hopefully I can fix my problem. May just have to drag the other half in to help (he is way better at wiring than I am).
     

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