1. Got a question or need help troubleshooting? Post to the troubleshooting forum or Search the forums!

Broke nozzle inside hotend

Discussion in 'Troubleshooting' started by sgomes, Aug 11, 2017.

  1. sgomes

    sgomes Active Member

    Joined:
    Dec 29, 2016
    Messages:
    136
    Likes Received:
    55
    Looks like I broke my nozzle while trying to replace it with a hardened one... Trouble is, it broke while inside the hotend, leaving a big chunk of the thread inside :-/

    I've tried screwdrivers with all sorts of tips to get it out, but it looks like I'm just chewing through the broken thread, rather than getting it to budge at all. That thing is ridiculously tight, which is likely why it broke in the first place.

    Any idea how I could get that thread out, or will I have to replace the entire hotend? :-( And if so, where do I get one?
     
  2. Geof

    Geof Volunteer Moderator
    Staff Member

    Joined:
    Nov 9, 2015
    Messages:
    6,729
    Likes Received:
    2,329
    sounds like you tried to remove cold? (thats a no no because stuff breaks).

    Your kind of screwed because the nozzle needs to be hot to release the seal made when tightening it hot. You can try a sharp punch and a hammer with a vice and try to remove the nozzle that way (heat the block with a torch) but I seriously doubt you will be able to get it broken free...they are on there. sometimes you can genty tap a tool into the broken part (torx bit works well for this) and heat up and remove that way but man its a rought battle.

    Call Robo and request a replacement hotend.

    In loo of that....you'd have to buy a hexagon hotend from somewhere and transfer your thermistor and heater cartridge to it. pay attention to the style thermistor and mounting set up. You dont want a beat style set up or your cartridge wont fit in the new one.
     
  3. sgomes

    sgomes Active Member

    Joined:
    Dec 29, 2016
    Messages:
    136
    Likes Received:
    55
    I tried removing it at 240C, is that too cold?

    Is it the same hotend as the C2? That one seems to be available at their store, so I could just order that and skip the whole support thing. I did break it myself, after all...
     
  4. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
    Staff Member

    Joined:
    Feb 21, 2013
    Messages:
    23,523
    Likes Received:
    7,305
    Yes, exact same hotend as the C2 and even the R1+

    I would heat it up to around 260c just to be well above what even ABS would require. Use that same temp to test it snug when putting a new one back in. You MIGHT be able to remove the brass threads from the aluminum heater block with an easyout* ... if you want to try that. There is some discussion of that here: https://forum.lulzbot.com/viewtopic.php?t=3058


    *something like this: https://www.amazon.com/IRWIN-HANSON-Spiral-Extractors-53545/dp/B001D1FXDE just look for the size you want.
     
  5. Geof

    Geof Volunteer Moderator
    Staff Member

    Joined:
    Nov 9, 2015
    Messages:
    6,729
    Likes Received:
    2,329
    240 should have been fine. Thats pretty rough. The c2 hotend will work vut not the heater. Its 19v and the r2 is 24v. Youll need to reuse the old heater possibly the thermistor if for some silly reason they ised a different one there too
     
    mark tomlinson likes this.
  6. Geof

    Geof Volunteer Moderator
    Staff Member

    Joined:
    Nov 9, 2015
    Messages:
    6,729
    Likes Received:
    2,329
    These are not named well...its not easy ;)
     
    jwmueller and mark tomlinson like this.
  7. sgomes

    sgomes Active Member

    Joined:
    Dec 29, 2016
    Messages:
    136
    Likes Received:
    55
    Thanks, Geof and Mark! I'll see if the easyout works; otherwise I guess I'll order the C2 hotend and replace just the metal parts :-/ Either that or contact support and see what they have to say.
     
    Geof and mark tomlinson like this.
  8. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
    Staff Member

    Joined:
    Feb 21, 2013
    Messages:
    23,523
    Likes Received:
    7,305
    They will probably send you a new hotend so I would call them even if you do get it extracted...
     
  9. Geof

    Geof Volunteer Moderator
    Staff Member

    Joined:
    Nov 9, 2015
    Messages:
    6,729
    Likes Received:
    2,329
    Yes most likely. They were always great with me
     
  10. sgomes

    sgomes Active Member

    Joined:
    Dec 29, 2016
    Messages:
    136
    Likes Received:
    55
    Thanks again, guys. I called support, and at their suggestion put through a warranty replacement. Though I can't say if I'll be brave enough to replace the nozzle on that when it arrives...
     
  11. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
    Staff Member

    Joined:
    Feb 21, 2013
    Messages:
    23,523
    Likes Received:
    7,305
    You will have to eventually, they wear :)
     
  12. sgomes

    sgomes Active Member

    Joined:
    Dec 29, 2016
    Messages:
    136
    Likes Received:
    55
    So, I got a new hotend today. Being in the UK, I didn't want to wait for the replacement Robo is sending me (and I did pay for), so I bought an original Hexagon locally.

    Interestingly, though, it seems that the R2 doesn't use an original Hexagon; the hole for the thermistor is larger on the R2's heat block than on the Hexagon's.

    No worries, though; some drilling and kapton tape later, I have a new hotend up and running on the R2, with a brand new tungsten nozzle :)

    new.jpg
     
    mark tomlinson likes this.
  13. WheresWaldo

    WheresWaldo Volunteer ( ͠° ͟ʖ ͡°)
    Staff Member

    Joined:
    Feb 18, 2015
    Messages:
    5,905
    Likes Received:
    3,593
    @sgomes the old Hexagon just used a glass bead thermistor so the hole was smaller. The new Hexagon uses the same glass bead but it is inserted in a short length of 3 mm brass tubing, so the hole to insert it is bigger.
     
    Geof likes this.

Share This Page