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Colorfabb XT vs Tritan

Discussion in 'Printing Filament' started by David Sparrow, Jan 25, 2015.

  1. David Sparrow

    David Sparrow Member

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    Folks I've looked up both materials and I really need the opinion of someone who has actually used both. The Colorfab XT (version 2) vs the Tritan. I know the Tritan has a higher Tg but aside from that I'm having trouble.

    Which is more rigid?
    Which is more resilient (take a beating)?
    Which can be printed 7-8 inches across and not warp on the print bed?

    Application: I'm designing a 3d printed 3 phase permanent magnet alternator (PMA) for a wind turbine. I spent alot of time on designs but the only thing I seem to be able to get to finish printing in is PLA (I've tried T-Glase, Nylon and PLA). I never use ABS because of the fumes issue and I hear it warps badly. T-glase isn't rigid or strong enough. Nylon my be strong enough but it's not ridged enough even if I could get a print not to warp at 7 inches across. I'm concerned that PLA TG (glass transition - warp in a dishwasher issue) will be a problem for an alternator that will likely get warm on the inside.
     
  2. Mike Kelly

    Mike Kelly Volunteer

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    XT is better for the application you're talking about.

    Here's a good review for Tritan:
     
  3. David Sparrow

    David Sparrow Member

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  4. Mike Kelly

    Mike Kelly Volunteer

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    3 people like this.
  5. David Sparrow

    David Sparrow Member

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    Good point, for what I would use it for White would be fine (to keep the sun off). I've tended to go without color because I tend to find the colorized filaments to be weaker than the parent. Thanks again for the help. XT looks like it would be a good match for my project.
     
  6. Bill Monroe

    Bill Monroe Member

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    I've been using the latest XT in green, black, and white.. All work the same with no setting changes, all are awesome. lays down like butter.
     
  7. David Sparrow

    David Sparrow Member

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    Bill have you tried printing anything 7 inches by 7 inches or larger? Do you know how the shrinkage compares to PLA?

    Ok I've print almost all my pieces of the alternator in PLA at 20% fill and they are almost perfect. Lots of little tweaks to get them just right (so that the bearings can be pressed in). Some of my tweaks are 1/32 inch changes (magnets were inches so I was sort of stuck doing the whole thing in inches). In the end at the widest point it's 8 inches across by 8 inches across. So I'm definitely concerned about bed warping and shrinkage.
     
  8. Bill Monroe

    Bill Monroe Member

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    not a single part, but I've filled the bed with parts. I've had a small problem with shrinkage at corners with larger cross sections than the rest of the parts - which caused the corner to slowly lift. I added some "local skirts" to help hold them down to the table - that solved the problem nicely. It's not unheard of with many materials. Other than that, it's been trouble free.. really strong stuff!

    [​IMG]
     
  9. milks

    milks Member

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    XT has minimal warping problems. I've done several prints at 9.5x7" without any trouble. I did try a 10x9" print which warped but such problems can often be dialed out by reducing the infill density. I have to print it slow (25mm/s) and hot (260C) otherwise I get serious blobbing.
     
  10. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    I went back and printed a little sample with this yesterday just to remember how it works.
    If you start off by thinking that the print profile is similar to ABS you are closer to the mark.

    It doesn't have all of the downsides of ABS, but temperature wise it is similar.
    For more clarity of the transparent variety lay it hot thick and slow.
     
  11. Printed Solid

    Printed Solid Volunteer Admin
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    Hi David, We're expecting more XT in all of the different colors ~2/13. I will say Tritan and XT are both Eastman polymers. Eastman developed XT (Amphora) specifically for 3D printing, but only markets Tritan for conventional plastics processing applications. You can find data sheets for both on their website. http://www.eastman.com/Markets/3D_Printing/Pages/Products.aspx

    As far as warpage goes, XT is closer to PLA than it is to ABS, but you will still need to manage it. Some advice for challenging parts: If your part has a large surface area and high infill, you may want to consider a raft. Make sure to print in a warm environment (an enclosure is not a bad idea). Don't run the parts cooling fan unless you need to. If you do, leave them off for the first 1cm or so and run them at a low speed. With the hexagon on the Robo, I've also had the best success with temps at around 250, bed temp at 70, extrusion multiplier around 97%. Can't remember what speeds I use, but they do tend to be on the slow end. My approach for setting speeds is that I just watch the infill and adjust speed until it starts to look full. This works particularly well with XT due to the high melt strength. It's closer to solid than liquid when you're extruding so it will chunk apart over the infill if you're going too fast.

    We do carry sample packs of XT, so if you want to just try it out that might be a good option for you.
     
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  12. David Sparrow

    David Sparrow Member

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    Thanks Everyone this helped greatly. It actually sounds like XT is the material I've been looking for as my "go to" material, not just the material for this project. And for the folks at Printed Solid, thank you for letting me know the date. I've been a customer before so you will hear from me soon.

    One last question what % infill are people doing to reduce lifting in the corners on large prints?
     
  13. milks

    milks Member

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    I've always used 10 - 15%, and the prints have been completely rigid. The only breakages in the 2Kg I've got through have been due to poor layer adhesion. Being a high temp material it would benefit from a warm print environment; the room in which I print can get down to 10C overnight.
     
  14. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    My last job with this was at 35% and no warp to speak of.
     
  15. Bill Monroe

    Bill Monroe Member

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    THAT'S good intel... I was having a problem with that. :)

    I've been running 240 and 75.. any hotter and hairs start to form.. 10 degrees diff could easily be differences in the machine, me thinks.
     
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