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Discussion in 'Mods and Upgrades' started by adikted2astro, May 7, 2018.
I am sorry but they have all been bought.
Thanks to adikted2astro I have 2 well fitted glass beds. Seems low profile prints stick well from static cling, with a few mat'l. exceptions. So I was going to print a carbon fiber/PC filament that just did not want to stick. So I put some buidtak on the glass. Seems the IR sensor does not see black buildtak, crashing into the plate. Makes sense as black absorbs light and does not reflect light. So back to hairspray or glue sticks. Have others seen this problem? Is there a work around?
They use black buildtak on the C2 and R2 bed
fixed it for ya
So I don't get it. Everything else works, glass with glue hairspray, painters tape. As soon as I took it off everything works fine.
I've always had a problem with every other bed adhesion method I've tried other than using a glass bed with either hairspray or glue stick; everything else gives me problems. That's why I spent the money to get those glass sheets made. I will never go back..........
everyone has different preferences. you can use hairspray on the buildtak if its working for most materials.
love my glass beds and would not give them up. Just gets my brain going in circles trying to figure out why? Since the R2 came with the same stuff.
I have been printing successfully with the PC CF filament (I believe it's Priline brand) using straight PEI sheet, this stuff likes to be squished a bit, I've been printing it at 0.08 and it comes out really nice. Its is a bit stringy and oozy so retractions and coasting needs to be set to get it to produce a good finish.
Currently I've been printing (trying) a lot of different Nylon based CF filament and printing on garolite with a bit of that Magigoo stuff and it has been working really well, in fact I am printing everything on the garolite with Magigoo, PLA, PETG, and ABS (but honestly I dont print much that isn't CF based) and it leaves a really glossy finish on the bottom layer similar to glass, I haven't tried the CF PC on it yet though.
Ive started trying the Priline CF/PC on glass and it works great. It prefers a little glue instead of hairspray. Also doing the nylon/CF i believe esun. Both are great mat'l.
I have tried the Nylon on the stock R2 bed and I think my room is a bit too cold (approximately 71°) with a ceiling fan blowing down. I always seem to have one corner that pulls up a bit and warps. Mostly tall prints. I have a sample of eSun's nylon/carbon fiber composite but haven't tried that one yet. I did print a lot of successful prints in nylon on the glass bed of the R1. So I love that you guys went this route with a glass bed over the R2.
I've got some Nylon and PC samples I want to print. Any suggestions for those of us who don't have a glass bed. Should I use BuildTak or PEI, and glue stick, aqua net, magigoo or 3DLAC? Any good printer settings?
I've tried buildtak but the nozzle always crashed into the bed and I don't get it as the R2 came with it to begin with. I've been using glass exclusively. I shut off the ac vent in the room for most stuff, nylon too. I've been using T-glasse and have come to like it a lot. Has beautiful optical qualities for thin things with a wide .3 layer height.
I can't get the bed leveling to work at all with BuildTak anymore, but when I put my PEI bed in, it seems to work fine.
One of the major stumbling blocks lately is that for some filaments that need the bed heated over about 85, I'm not at all trustful of the printer being able to do that.
I havent printed any straight nylon yet it's all been of the CF variety and the CF in it does stiffen it up to help prevent warping, It warps much less than ABS from my experience. I've been using the Magigoo stuff and all though it is a bit costly compared to glue sticks it goes a long way, what I really like about it is once its dry it is a very thin film you can barely see but it holds well and the bottom surface of your parts come out really glossy if using glass or another smooth surface (like garolite), if your bed is level and even you dont even see the extrusions, it looks like a glossy painted surface.
@drbanks The trick with PEI and/or BuildTak sheets is that you don't need as high a temperature to make stuff stick to it.