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Solved Dragging in/through previous layers

Discussion in 'Troubleshooting' started by Truerobotech, Nov 25, 2015.

  1. Truerobotech

    Truerobotech Member

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    Ill look again and check back
     
  2. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    Good luck :)
    I'd much rather see a silly firmware related oops! Than having to spend money and mess with hardware.
     
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  3. Truerobotech

    Truerobotech Member

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    I agree I would have loved to see a firmware oops but its not there. The numbers are right, so I kinda went back to basics. Switched to MC installed raw Robo FW w a Z offset from .5, then 1, then 1.5, then 1.75 pretty much the same issue.

    I just loaded a firmware with a crazy step count (well maybe not crazy) i just upped it 40 to 2600. Same results.

    Im going to post a video here shortly of the whole run. As a control I am going to run MC with stock firmware and a 1.5 Z Offset. Temps 210 Hot End, 50 On the bed, Glue stick for adhesion

    Maybe the vid and end result on the calibration cube will help?
     
  4. Truerobotech

    Truerobotech Member

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    Video of the issue, maybe its a bad stepper? It thinks it moved so many steps but didnt rinse repeat and there are enough lost steps it plows? Note there is no audioon the vid


     
  5. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    A bad stepper wouldn't raise and lower properly for the auto-leveling.
    <sigh/>

    Try another program to slice and print with.

    It is possible this is something with the software since the first couple of layers look OK.
    If something else (repetier host for example, something other than MatterControl) exhibits the same behaviors then let's review all of the slicer settings you are using. Layer heights and everything.
     
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  6. Truerobotech

    Truerobotech Member

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    Ill take some screen shots I have the same issues with Cura. Let me run another Cura Afterwards Ill report the results and all slicer settings for both software.
     
  7. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    If you are still under warranty I would get with Robo and have them start swapping some parts.
    The easiest test is to swap the ramps and all of the stepper drivers in one shot.

    You could just swap all of it (arduino, ramps, stepper drivers) and reload the firmware.
    I seriously don't think the Arduino is bad here, but something on the RAMPS must be awry.
     
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  8. Truerobotech

    Truerobotech Member

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    Sadly out of warranty and wont go into a tirade on Robo :)

    I am however going to email them and inquire on price for all board components before just piecing together my own. Working on that cura test now Ill post back shortly
     
  9. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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  10. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    The nice thing is that Robo is hardware-wise pretty much all open source. Those are all standard (and relatively inexpensive) components that you can get almost anywhere.
     
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  11. Truerobotech

    Truerobotech Member

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    LCD would be a nice add on it was in the plans anyway. That set would give me good base start from scratch.

    May just place that order anyway.

    I decided to try a different machine with a clean install of cura. I did the setup according to the sticky and had the same results. Ill post from that machine here in a few minutes ill post my console data and my gcode. If it doesnt spell anything out then ill look at the board packages.
     
  12. WheresWaldo

    WheresWaldo Volunteer ( ͠° ͟ʖ ͡°)
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    That second link @mark tomlinson provided is a great deal, although personally, if I was going to the trouble of replacing all the electronics, I would really consider upgrading to an all-in-one board or TI DRV8825 StepStick Stepper Drivers. The TI drivers can result in lower stepper noise and 1/32 microstepping vs. 1/16 for finer control.
     
  13. Truerobotech

    Truerobotech Member

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    Hey Mark thanks for walking along w me on this journey I hope to turn the knowledge you have handed me out to others forum members in future.

    Here we are the Console Data -

    < echo:Unknown command: ""
    < Bed x: 15.00 y: 20.00 z: 0.41
    < Bed x: 107.00 y: 20.00 z: 0.34
    < Bed x: 199.00 y: 20.00 z: -0.20
    < Bed x: 200.00 y: 130.00 z: -0.40
    < Bed x: 108.00 y: 130.00 z: 0.14
    < Bed x: 16.00 y: 130.00 z: 0.12
    < Bed x: 15.00 y: 240.00 z: 0.28
    < Bed x: 107.00 y: 240.00 z: 0.27
    < Bed x: 199.00 y: 240.00 z: -0.20
    < Eqn coefficients: a: -0.00 b: -0.00 d: 0.44
    < planeNormal x: 0.00 y: 0.00 z: 1.00
    < echo:endstops hit: Z:-0.20
    < Error:No Line Number with checksum, Last Line: 27


    The Gcode
    ;Sliced at: {day} {date} {time}
    ;Basic settings: Layer height: {layer_height} Walls: {wall_thickness} Fill: {fill_density}
    ;Print time: {print_time}
    ;Filament used: {filament_amount}m {filament_weight}g
    ;Filament cost: {filament_cost}
    ;M190 S{print_bed_temperature} ;Uncomment to add your own bed temperature line
    ;M109 S{print_temperature} ;Uncomment to add your own temperature line
    G21 ;metric values
    G90 ;absolute positioning
    M82 ;set extruder to absolute mode
    M107 ;start with the fan off

    G28 ;home all axis
    M565 Z-1.0 ;Define Z Offset at 1.0mm
    G29 ;Run auto-level

    G1 Z15.0 F{travel_speed} ;move the platform down 15mm

    G92 E0 ;zero the extruded length
    G1 F200 E3 ;extrude 3mm of feed stock
    G92 E0 ;zero the extruded length again
    G1 F{travel_speed}
    ;Put printing message on LCD screen
    M117 Printing...
     
  14. WheresWaldo

    WheresWaldo Volunteer ( ͠° ͟ʖ ͡°)
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    @Truerobotech the first 7 lines of gcode are just comments so you can ignore them. The next four lines are typical for nearly every printer, it is just housekeeping stuff. Swap the positions of G28 and M565, it really shouldn't matter but it might. I have never actually seen -1.0 be successful, are you sure it take 1 mm after the extruder tip touches the glass before either of the switches are triggered. My machine was very consistent at 0.86 mm before the change to lead screws and sits very consistent at 0.52 mm afterward. The first G92 E0 is wholly unnecessary but won't hurt anything or affect printing in any way. The rest is just more housekeeping before it actually tries to print something.

    I don't see anything there that would cause any issues.
     
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  15. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    Yep, all great ideas. I think he might want to get some experience with the default setup first :)

    Still, @Truerobotech if you feel up to making some major changes these are not bad ideas. They just move you a bit further from stock so you need to understand what is involved.
     
  16. Truerobotech

    Truerobotech Member

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    Thanks @WheresWaldo i did the code line swap. For the life of me I cannot think of where i got that -.9 if i remember correctly it was from prior software gcode. And i have been messing with that number lately thinking it was part of the issue? I just did manual zerox paper check i can move the head .7mm up and thats where i have good paper movement with little drag. To be honest even after reading threads on here i am not sure how to use this number.

    @mark tomlinson is right im going to stay with the stock setups for a while. I read up on the single boards a while back and that seemed like a jump in the deep end of the pool. Based on this issue and the one posted prior it would safer for me to stay in the shallow end of the pool and maybe eve wear floaties :)
     
  17. Truerobotech

    Truerobotech Member

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  18. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    You can play with that number if you like. It ONLY affects the first layer really and should be used to tweak in the first layer so it looks perfect (not too high, not too low --> http://printedsolid.com/blogs/news/37035715-get-your-prints-to-stick-check-your-skirt)

    Your problem is one of incremental failure and while it REALLY looks like the old incorrect-Z-steps problem ... since you KNOW the Z steps are correct for your hardware then that leaves just some sort of hardware failure rather than a software issue. The Z stepper could be missing steps. The only possible last sanity check you could do would be to swap the Z stepper driver card with one for another axis (X or Y) and see if the problem goes away on the Z axis. It may well move to X or Y :) Or not since the Z is driving 2 steppers, not one. In either case I would replace that stepper driver if it DID work when you swapped it.
     
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  19. Truerobotech

    Truerobotech Member

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    Was just working in that direction :) ill report back w results
     
  20. Truerobotech

    Truerobotech Member

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    I changed the Z out with the Y. When they were in their original places I would see small movements in the Z almost continuously back a forth a bit. After the swap the Z issue is still there but the back and forth movements were gone and I did notice some different sounds coming from the y motors.

    Going to do the whole shebang, Ill spend a bit more $$ for a quality kit with good reviews and hopefully few DOA items. Maybe ordering two full kits to insure I have all I need when I rip back into the machine.

    Ill set this thread to partially solved as at minimal with all the help its been narrowed down. Unless there are any objections when the new parts are in I will continue in this thread.

    Off to hunt for new boards and kits,
     

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