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Solved Dragging in/through previous layers

Discussion in 'Troubleshooting' started by Truerobotech, Nov 25, 2015.

  1. Truerobotech

    Truerobotech Member

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    Hello,

    Current Setup is in signature with these details: Nozzle is .4 ( really want to get to use my 8mm though). Using MatterControl, totally reset new install. Settings are all default with a 1.5 Z offset.
    (Cura out of the box dragged on the glass so I stepped back to MC)

    Issue: I can usually get the first layer down solid however each layer after, the hotend tip drags through the layers. Picture a layer of icing and just running your finger in it back and forth etc. Over time this will usually break the print loose. Looking at the visual troubleshooting guides I couldnt identify the fix.

    Recent changes to printer:
    New RAMPs, E3d v6 install (no firm wear change as I have the hex end thermistor)

    When manually leveling the bed, the copy paper clears with 1 mm all across at middle and rear of the bed. The front requires 2mm all across (i.e. the bed is tilting back causing the 1mm difference)

    What I tried: Adjustments in different numbers in MC hence the total reset. I had gotten so far out of whack I couldnt back track.

    Best guess - Issues is in software settings? as bed is kinda level?

    Thanks for any info and direction
     
  2. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    You have to modify the startup GCode for Cura. I do not think there are any slicer settings for Z offset.

    Possible issues:
    1) firmware incorrect (if you have the wrong number of Z steps/mm then this could happen since the Z will collide if it is not raising up enough)*
    2) Make certain that silly bottom fan is running. All sorts of weirdness will ensue if the RAMPS overheats.
    3) Remotely possible that the RAMPS itself is the problem, but rather a slim chance.


    *the number used for Z steps totally depends on what flavor of machine and upgrades you have installed. As I see it there are like 3 options :

    1) 5/16 rods (older units like the beta and early R1) #define DEFAULT_AXIS_STEPS_PER_UNIT {80,80,2267.72,723.38}
    2) 8mm rods (most R1 units) #define DEFAULT_AXIS_STEPS_PER_UNIT {80,80,2560,723.38}
    3) leadscrews (R1+) #define DEFAULT_AXIS_STEPS_PER_UNIT {80,80,800,723.38}
     
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  3. Truerobotech

    Truerobotech Member

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    Thank hou Mark! The machine is pretty much stock except for the e3d. Ill get into the firmware and chck that out. Ill double check the fan as well and report back.

    Btw happy thanksgiving to you
     
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  4. Truerobotech

    Truerobotech Member

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    Mark (or others) I am looking at the firmware and potential need to update or refresh it but TBH I am not a 100% sure what model I have and cannot find a resource to help ID it. Do you know of one?
     
  5. WheresWaldo

    WheresWaldo Volunteer ( ͠° ͟ʖ ͡°)
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    Robo doesn't document changes. Look for a couple of things. Where is the X Axis limit switch? Do you have drawer rails under the bed or chromed rods? Does you X Carriage have an aluminum plate under the extruder or not? Is there a little sticker with a date under the top of the cover?
     
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  6. Truerobotech

    Truerobotech Member

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    Yes x axis limit switch, chromed rods, No aluminum plate,and no sticker


    Oh - if you can tell me what each one of those items would indicate (my printer or not) you would be making this a great thread for future searchers
     
    #6 Truerobotech, Nov 26, 2015
    Last edited: Nov 26, 2015
  7. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    Sounds more like an R1, not an R1+
    sadly when you bought it is a better gauge of what 'model' it is than anything else.

    There were a couple of original models (from the kickstarter). This was later called the Beta and had several variations of bed materials, plates and such. You could get it in an ABS/PLA model or PLA only (no heated bed). It had 5/16" threaded rods and a J-Head extruder.

    Later came the first R1 units... I think some of those early ones had J-Head, but most came with the Hexagon and there is a bottom cover on the printer. Not sure on the threaded rods, but most were 8mm.

    No we have the R1+, leadscrews (no couplers) and a few other odds/ends.

    For the original problem you posted it is likely you have option 2) 8mm rods but have firmware loaded for one of the others (which has the Z steps too low-> Z collides)
     
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  8. Mike Kelly

    Mike Kelly Volunteer

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    Measuring the thread pitch is the best way to determine what kind of printer you have
     
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  9. Truerobotech

    Truerobotech Member

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    Ok tried old firmware and the new v3 checked the steps in Arduino and they are correct for my printer type. Printing in Cura or MC yields the same results. Fan in the bottom is running as is the 40mm cooling fan

    Reference image on my flicr acct:
    https://flic.kr/p/B6RY5N

    Prints first layer then wipes through starting on the second or third layer eventually busting the print off the bad and Im forced to cancel.

    I dont suspect the ramps as I recently had a very successful print with the leaking stock head. The issue only showed up after the E3D v6 w stud thermistor install. Seems like the new head is just say 1 mm longer and as a result doesnt come up high enough when moving to and starting the next layer?

    Currently Cura has the stock GCode, I found a suggested "copy& paste" gcode sometime ago here in the forums but cant seem to locate it. Ill keep searching. If you know what code I am referring to please link. As it stands here is what is stock in Cura 15.04.3 starting GCode

    M140 S{print_bed_temperature}
    M104 S{print_temperature}
    M107; FANS OFF
    G28; HOME ALL AXIS
    M84; KILL MOTORS
    M109 S{print_temperature}
    G1 Z2; RAISE Z-AXIS TO 2MM
    G1 F10000; SET FEEDRATE FAST
    G1 X5 Y5; MOVE CLOSE TO HOME
    M565 Z-0.9; Z-AXIS OFFSET
    G28; HOME ALL AXIS
    G29; PROBE BED
    G1 F10000; SET FEEDRATE FAST
    G1 Z15; RAISE Z-AXIS TO 2MM
    G92 E0; ZERO EXTRUDER
    M190 S{print_bed_temperature}
    M25; WAIT FOR USER
    G1 X20 Y20; MOVE CLOSE TO HOME
    G1 Z.5; LOWER Z-AXIS TO .3MM
    G1 F1500; SET FEEDRATE SLOW
    G1 X200 E25; CLEAR FILLAMENT
    G92 E0; ZERO EXTRUDER
    G1 F{travel_speed}; START


    As always thanks for the great assistance.
     
  10. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    That difference in the hotend size can't matter. Why? Because on the R1 the hotend IS the bed probe.
    It pushes the hotend down until the Z switches unseat and that defines the zero. If the new hotend is longer or shorter... it will sort it out.

    So it almost has to be Z steps...or possibly (but less likely) the stepper driver needs tuning for the Z axis (or the RAMPS).
     
  11. Truerobotech

    Truerobotech Member

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    Ah gotcha should have realized that.

    So i will look at the Z steps in the firmware again to make sure they match. After that i will look up the tuning the z axis and give it a shot although that doesnt sound like the same process as mentioned in the stickies. But i will give it a shot. Just have to be patient and keep working on it. This may be my best weekend to do it.
     
  12. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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  13. Truerobotech

    Truerobotech Member

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    Thanks Mark I will take a look, after I try one thing. It finally dawned on me to not only confirm the Z Steps in the firmware but increase slightly to see if that resolves the issue.

    If this works is it a good option to resolving or should I leave the Z Steps alone and perform the tuning?
     
  14. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    I would think (my opinion) that the tuning would be the best choice. leave the firmware as close to stock as possible.
    If the tuning is not helping then yes... do whatever it takes to sort the problem. Just make a note why you changed that line to remind you later :)

    Z steps is a hardware dependent setting. Given the same printer hardware (same rods, etc.) yours should not be different.
     
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  15. Truerobotech

    Truerobotech Member

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    Awesome I returned it to stock. With a few of novice experts changes to speed up the leveling/probing etc but Z steps are again all stock.

    Thanks for the links I will get into the Z Axis tuning now and report back after a test.
     
  16. Truerobotech

    Truerobotech Member

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    As for measuring the volts being pushed to the stepper motor would I be correct in checking across the 2 points 2B and 1A right next to that stepper? I am assuming this as my colors for wires go Black 2B, Green 2A, Red 1A, Blue 1B
     
  17. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    http://forums.reprap.org/read.php?219,94354,94354 says to measure it on the wiper arm of the potentiometer. That is usually the center pin.

    The other link (boots industries) might be an easier one to follow since it doesn't require using a voltmeter. It is a more 'analog' way of setting the driver :) The voltmeter method is a little more precise, but in the end you want enough current to consistently make the stepper step correctly and not enough to overheat it.
     
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  18. Truerobotech

    Truerobotech Member

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    Doing it the ol analog way I end up to high to low and whats seems now to be right. This however has not fixed the problem :(

    So the volt meter is prob my next step the thing is which one is the middle pin on a 4 Pin setup :confused: 2a or 1a According ot the forum I should run the meter connection in series on a single wire. That I think I can handle.


    There is an error in the console please see below, but no error log is generated.

    < Bed x: 15.00 y: 20.00 z: 0.26
    < Bed x: 107.00 y: 20.00 z: 0.27
    < Bed x: 199.00 y: 20.00 z: -0.28
    < Bed x: 200.00 y: 130.00 z: -0.56
    < Bed x: 108.00 y: 130.00 z: 0.05
    < Bed x: 16.00 y: 130.00 z: 0.02
    < Bed x: 15.00 y: 240.00 z: 0.17
    < Bed x: 107.00 y: 240.00 z: 0.15
    < Bed x: 199.00 y: 240.00 z: -0.29
    < Eqn coefficients: a: -0.00 b: -0.00 d: 0.33
    < planeNormal x: 0.00 y: 0.00 z: 1.00
    < echo:endstops hit: Z:-0.29
    < Error:No Line Number with checksum, Last Line: 31

    I hate to do the "throw money at it approach" but that may be next replace all boards and steppers?
     
  19. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    That error is ignorable. I have seen other folks getting it with MC.

    If you are swapping boards I would suggest starting with the RAMPS (and you can swap the stepper drivers with it if you want).
    I always suggest having a spare of everything electronical anyway :

    https://www.amazon.com/CJRSLRB®-Meg...=1448665747&sr=8-9&keywords=ramps+arduino+kit

    less than 30 dollars and totally covers everything but the switches (and you can get a set of 3 from Robo for 5 bucks if you want to cover that base as well). Prime eligible so you can have it Sunday :)
     
  20. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    I know you said you checked but jolly well make certain that you have uploaded the CORRECT Z steps firmware.
    Do it again even, you know, just to be sure.
    :)

    If for some silly reason you had 2267.72 or 800 loaded (instead of the 2560) you absolutely will get the Z plowing through layers it already laid.
     
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