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E3D 1.75mm all metal hotend arrives..

Discussion in 'Mods and Upgrades' started by CAMBO3D, May 28, 2013.

  1. fabrice

    fabrice New Member

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    Hello, what do you put a desk fan next to the printer to cool?
     
  2. Harry

    Harry Team ROBO 3D
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    I do do that, just as a bonus at times.
     
  3. tesseract

    tesseract Moderator
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    I am not sure if you are asking me but I will tell you what I use it for. I am trying to get a decent fan mount so I can cool both the hot end PEEK material and for the part.

    The cooling fan for the PEEK is to prevent creeping where the heat in the PEEK builds up to the point that the filament starts to soften inside the PEEK itself and then could cause major issues so it is best to get one on teh hot end as soon as possible.

    The fan for cooling the part confused me at first then I thought about it and it makes sense. At the first levels it is usually off or set very low that is because you want to give the filament a good chance to stick to the surface and being hot and flexible as the filament is when it is hot this is a good thing so it should remain hot new layers stick to each other and the surface better.
    Later in the print though things change the heat is not totaly dissapated so keeps getting warmer and warmer eventually it get to the point where the filament is staying warm too long and that affects the quality so the fan is used to harden things ups sort of like cement when it is wet it can be moved and deformed and ruin but once it is set is is very strong and hard too move this just allows the new layers to have a good firm foundation to put new filament down on. This becomes real important on prints with thin walls.
    So until I get both my small fans installed I am using the desk fan. Simple as that.
     
  4. JDM_

    JDM_ New Member

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    I ordered one last night....:cool:
     
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  5. wrdutcher

    wrdutcher New Member

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  6. CAMBO3D

    CAMBO3D New Member

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    dont base your opinions on another guys opinion. a lot of others use this hot end with out issues.

    That being said. Ive not used this hotend with pla, because mainly purchased it to print with nylon, and other higher temp materials.
     
  7. Harry

    Harry Team ROBO 3D
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    I'm printing using PLA and it works fine...(USING THE E3D on my RoBo3D)
     
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  8. wrdutcher

    wrdutcher New Member

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    Cambo, your absolutely right, just trying to add some insights as to why some are having trouble with PLA sticking.
    Harry, I happy it is working good for you, as the seller says, it is a small number with problems, and there are so many variables to consider.

    Here is a question, I am new to 3d printing, up to this point I have been machining plastic parts, I plan to start with PLA and ABS, then move into other plastics. Would it make since to put this on my Robo when it is delivered or wait until I am ready to make the transition to higher temp materials? Does the ed3 improve print quality with lower temp materials?
    Thanks.
     
  9. Harry

    Harry Team ROBO 3D
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    Hey Wrdutcher, I would get to know the printer before you do any mods. Wait at least a week or two in my opinion.
     
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  10. wrdutcher

    wrdutcher New Member

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    Good point. Its always nice to have a good baseline before making changes. It also helps in resolving problems before adding any more to the list. I do have a few mods in mind like Borosilicate Glass (already ordered) and a bed leveling option if I am unable to level the production bed. Other mods will come later as needed one at a time, so that they can be tested individually. The only reason I asked about the ed3 is that it seems that many are making the switch and speaking highly of it. I just wondered if it made any since to switch to it early on. However, it may make more since to wait until it is needed and then benefit from the design improvements and tweaks being made.
    Thanks.
     
  11. Sanjay Mortimer

    Sanjay Mortimer E3D-HotEnd

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    Hi All,

    Sanjay from E3D here - I didn't find your thread/discussions here because I search for "E3D" and the discussion here is all "ED3". I think Harry is the one who pointed this all out to me via email. I try to hang around on and support people in forums as much as possible, but I have to use search terms to find everything. So if you're posting about an issue and want me to be able to find it do use "E3D"!

    The E3D is tried and tested with PLA, and it's what I normally print 90% of the time with, if it's jamming then something is wrong! Usual culprits are lack of proper cooling - the fan needs to be connected to a 12v supply and running all the time the hotend is hot - or it will jam. Other things to watch for are bad/moist filament, and improper assembly of how the nozzle should tighten against the break, (see the build manual for explanations on this).

    Will check back on this thread as often as I can, but if you are stuck you can always email me for a faster response.
     
  12. Leon Grossman

    Leon Grossman Active Member

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    Sanjay,

    I see there have been various versions of the nozzle v4, v4.1, v5. I have a v4 at my office and a v4.1 coming for home. Is there any difference worth worrying about in the various revisions?
     
  13. Sanjay Mortimer

    Sanjay Mortimer E3D-HotEnd

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    Hi Leon,

    Looking at your order I think you will actually get a V5, not that this makes an awful lot of difference. The major changes from V4 are an improved heatsink with better cooling and less weight, some improved chamfers all round the filament path that makes filament pass more smoothly into the hotend, and finally a general quality boost in terms of the components supplied.

    No change in mounting, assembly or anything that should worry you.
     
  14. Harry

    Harry Team ROBO 3D
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    Hey Sanjay! Glad you got my email. The biggest issue I am having, seems to be that at times the filament either:
    1) Filament Gets stuck either entering the hotend
    2) There is some sort of jam or mis-alignment that I can't ever pull the filament out at times (Same time the filament wont go in)

    The hottend is hot and I'll put it up to even 300C to try to pull the filament (PLA) out and it doesnt.
    Which that leads me to believe that it is either:
    1) A mis-alignment of the hotend and carriage
    2) Some sort of jam or issue with the "Head" of the hot ends heatsink.

    Have you had any issues with this? IT got so bad, and happened so often I switched back to the stock RoBo 3D Printer Hotend till I could fix the issue. I was thinking maybe I just had bad luck and didn't get the hot end alignedwith the hole the filament passes thru?
     
  15. JDM_

    JDM_ New Member

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    Harry.... are there any special install tips for the E3D? I think you guys were saying there was something special that needs to be done to mount it.
     
  16. JDM_

    JDM_ New Member

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    This is the best looking hollow pyramid I've ever seen. What layer height is this? PLA or ABS?

    Anything special need to be done to install this hot end or is it pretty strait forward?
     
  17. Sanjay Mortimer

    Sanjay Mortimer E3D-HotEnd

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    Harry
    I have experienced a similar issue, with a badly matched hotend and extruder (Extruder designed for 3mm, but using it to push 1.75mm. The way to check would be to take it off the carriage, and try feeding and retracting the filament by hand. If it works out of the machine then it's a mounting issue, if it jams for some reason in the head due to a faulty part then get in touch and we will make things right. I must say I have not heard of any problems with filament jamming in that part of the hotend to date though.

    Version clarification:
    As we went from v4 to v5 the design was in a slight state of flux, and batches had minor amendments made as we went. It was a bit of a crazy time as we were expanding very quickly. Essentially the v4.1 is nearly identical to the v5, apart from a few minor chamfer angle changes and in some cases a heat break length change.

    To clarify the difference between v4 and v5 is mainly the heatsink, which has more fins, but the fins are thinner. This means more cooling, and less weight. The second real difference of note is the nozzle chamfer angle, which was increased to a sharper tip to give better top surface finish and less "dragging" of the nozzle over curled overhangs etc.

    Parts should be compatible across the whole range, so you can use a v5 nozzle in a v4 as an upgrade. With the exception of the heatbreak, which has had some changes over time in it's overall length.

    Regarding Bowden versions
    I'm not sure that bowden versions are really of much interest for you guys on Robo3D machines, but to be clear:
    The bowden versions come drilled and tapped to accept a 1/8thBSPP male coupler. The direct versions do not come drilled/tapped.

    Hope that helps clarify things, but if you have any more questions, do just ask.
    Sanjay
     
  18. Harry

    Harry Team ROBO 3D
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    Thanks Sanjay! I appreciate that info! I'll give it a try and will get back to you ASAP!
     
  19. Soupaboy

    Soupaboy Active Member

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    hello. if my robo 3d extruder breaks or if it sucks where can I get a better one? I'm soooooworied about getting the printer becuase I'm scared of faults or up issues I can't fix


    what is the best spare extruder for this printer if I am not happy with it and if I put in a 0.1 nozzle- will the resolution be better?
     
  20. Leon Grossman

    Leon Grossman Active Member

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    @Soupaboy, this is still very much a tinkerer's field. Overcoming fear is a good thing. :)

    I've got the E3D hot end on my other printer and it is amazing. I have no worries about accidental over temperature and it works pretty flawlessly.

    As for nozzle diameter. Technically, you could have better resolution with a smaller nozzle. However, the industry has settled on the 0.35/0.4mm nozzles for several very good reasons.

    1. A smaller nozzle will be more likely to clog (trust me, cleaning nozzles is a pain.
    2. Extruding less material makes the prints take longer.
    3. Extruding through a smaller nozzle requires much more force to get the same amount of material out.

    Good luck with your printer.
     

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