1. Got a question or need help troubleshooting? Post to the troubleshooting forum or Search the forums!

E3D 1.75mm all metal hotend arrives..

Discussion in 'Mods and Upgrades' started by CAMBO3D, May 28, 2013.

  1. tonycstech

    tonycstech Active Member

    Joined:
    Dec 16, 2013
    Messages:
    606
    Likes Received:
    196
    I am not sure what they mean by "Open"
    Open as opening betwin connections and Closed as connection closed=contact established ?
    Confused...
     
  2. Melody Bliss

    Melody Bliss New Member

    Joined:
    Nov 17, 2013
    Messages:
    276
    Likes Received:
    81

    Tony, a Normally Open switch is a switch that normally does not allow electricity to flow, but needs to be activated to allow electricity to flow. The reason it is called normally open is because in a schematic, you'll see a gap typically to show that there is no connection.

    Here is an example schematic of normally open versus normally closed.

    [​IMG]

    (The NO is Normally Open, NC is Normally Closed)

    A Normally Closed switch allows electricity to flow over it and stops it whenever the button is pushed. i.e. works opposite of a NO switch.

    Another image which might explain better.

    [​IMG]
     
    4 people like this.
  3. CAMBO3D

    CAMBO3D New Member

    Joined:
    Feb 20, 2013
    Messages:
    642
    Likes Received:
    296
    hmm..if you have to ask this.. you probably should rethink all your wiring. When you post a schematic on here and ask if its right that's a big red stop sign...Make sure its all correct. You may end up damaging something. that being said melody is correct.. N.O. means normally open. no electrical/current flow.. N.C. means normally closed allows electricity/current to flow. Normal state is defined.. as being unpowered or not activated. so if its closed (N.C.) when unpowered it will be open when powered and if its closed when not activated.. it will be open when activated.
     
  4. tonycstech

    tonycstech Active Member

    Joined:
    Dec 16, 2013
    Messages:
    606
    Likes Received:
    196
    I have no thermostats anywhere so no, no damage possible.
    I am not electronically challenged, i just dont understand English terms. I had a soldering gun as my friend since i was 16, my dad was awarded many times for inventing and such.
    But then Nintendo/Genesis/PS1/PC came into my life and i betrayed my friend for many many years and would only visit him when am desperate.
    Still i have plenty of basics to know what am doing.
     
  5. tonycstech

    tonycstech Active Member

    Joined:
    Dec 16, 2013
    Messages:
    606
    Likes Received:
    196
    Question.
    These hotends use MK8 nozzles right ? I wonder if it would fit.
     
  6. Denys Dmytriyenko

    Denys Dmytriyenko Active Member

    Joined:
    Nov 29, 2013
    Messages:
    119
    Likes Received:
    59
    Argh. Whomever thought dealing with that teeny-tiny thermistor would be easy was severely mistaken! Since I'm trying to re-use the existing wires, it was quite hard to put on those ferrules... And after I got them on, I ended up breaking the wires right next to the glass bulb, while installing it into the heater block :( Darn it, ordering a replacement now...
     
  7. tonycstech

    tonycstech Active Member

    Joined:
    Dec 16, 2013
    Messages:
    606
    Likes Received:
    196
    LOL :)
    No dude, no one was gonna mess with the small thermistor.
    I was gonna use a big one thats nothing like theone robo comes with.
    In fact robo uses smallest thermistors i've seen.
    i bought my self 10 but they were 3 times as big :)
    I have no clue what size robo uses or its specs.
     
  8. Mike Kelly

    Mike Kelly Volunteer

    Joined:
    Mar 11, 2013
    Messages:
    6,967
    Likes Received:
    2,278
    I asked one time but they use but was told epcos. I'm pretty sure it's semitec though.
     
  9. Denys Dmytriyenko

    Denys Dmytriyenko Active Member

    Joined:
    Nov 29, 2013
    Messages:
    119
    Likes Received:
    59
  10. tonycstech

    tonycstech Active Member

    Joined:
    Dec 16, 2013
    Messages:
    606
    Likes Received:
    196
    what about stock robo3d nozzle, what do they use ?
     
  11. Mike Kelly

    Mike Kelly Volunteer

    Joined:
    Mar 11, 2013
    Messages:
    6,967
    Likes Received:
    2,278
    My previous answer was in regards to the stock robo. V5 E3D uses semitec as well
     
  12. Denys Dmytriyenko

    Denys Dmytriyenko Active Member

    Joined:
    Nov 29, 2013
    Messages:
    119
    Likes Received:
    59
    What I liked about stock RoBo thermistor, is that it had PTFE-insulated wires, while E3D/Semitec one has bare wires, which you have to cover in kapton...
    Anybody known a good source for PTFE wire insulation or alternatively stock RoBo thermistor with those wires?
     
  13. Mike Kelly

    Mike Kelly Volunteer

    Joined:
    Mar 11, 2013
    Messages:
    6,967
    Likes Received:
    2,278
  14. Denys Dmytriyenko

    Denys Dmytriyenko Active Member

    Joined:
    Nov 29, 2013
    Messages:
    119
    Likes Received:
    59
    BTW, when installing E3D on RoBo, should TEMP_SENSOR_0 be changed according to this table from its default value of 1, that corresponds to EPCOS?

    //--NORMAL IS 4.7kohm PULLUP!-- 1kohm pullup can be used on hotend sensor, using correct resistor and table
    //
    //// Temperature sensor settings:
    // -2 is thermocouple with MAX6675 (only for sensor 0)
    // -1 is thermocouple with AD595
    // 0 is not used
    // 1 is 100k thermistor - best choice for EPCOS 100k (4.7k pullup)
    // 2 is 200k thermistor - ATC Semitec 204GT-2 (4.7k pullup)
    // 3 is mendel-parts thermistor (4.7k pullup)
    // 4 is 10k thermistor !! do not use it for a hotend. It gives bad resolution at high temp. !!
    // 5 is 100K thermistor - ATC Semitec 104GT-2 (Used in ParCan) (4.7k pullup)
    // 6 is 100k EPCOS - Not as accurate as table 1 (created using a fluke thermocouple) (4.7k pullup)
    // 7 is 100k Honeywell thermistor 135-104LAG-J01 (4.7k pullup)
    // 71 is 100k Honeywell thermistor 135-104LAF-J01 (4.7k pullup)
    // 8 is 100k 0603 SMD Vishay NTCS0603E3104FXT (4.7k pullup)
    // 9 is 100k GE Sensing AL03006-58.2K-97-G1 (4.7k pullup)
    // 10 is 100k RS thermistor 198-961 (4.7k pullup)
    // 60 is 100k Maker's Tool Works Kapton Bed Thermister
    //
    // 1k ohm pullup tables - This is not normal, you would have to have changed out your 4.7k for 1k
    // (but gives greater accuracy and more stable PID)
    // 51 is 100k thermistor - EPCOS (1k pullup)
    // 52 is 200k thermistor - ATC Semitec 204GT-2 (1k pullup)
    // 55 is 100k thermistor - ATC Semitec 104GT-2 (Used in ParCan) (1k pullup)

    #define TEMP_SENSOR_0 1
     
  15. Racegrafix

    Racegrafix Active Member

    Joined:
    Nov 18, 2013
    Messages:
    213
    Likes Received:
    62
    I just changed max temp value, using whatever thermistor that comes with it.
     
  16. Denys Dmytriyenko

    Denys Dmytriyenko Active Member

    Joined:
    Nov 29, 2013
    Messages:
    119
    Likes Received:
    59
    FWIW, I just read it should be set to 5 for the thermistor shipped with new E3D v5...
     
  17. CAMBO3D

    CAMBO3D New Member

    Joined:
    Feb 20, 2013
    Messages:
    642
    Likes Received:
    296
    yes.... to get accurate readings, your firmware should match the thermistor your using...temp tables are different for different thermistors.
     
  18. Thor

    Thor Member

    Joined:
    Nov 19, 2013
    Messages:
    64
    Likes Received:
    19
    The thermoswitch came in... I think it's not going to be shoved anywhere in the E3D :(
    I might be able to attach it to the head, but that's the hot part! For some reason I thought these were smaller than the TO220 form factor. Oy vey!

    DSC_0043.jpg DSC_0045.jpg
     

Share This Page